AS7 solid state switch problem.

[DerekP]

I fitted one of these and have the problem below.

http://www.nippynormans.com/products/autoswitch/item/autoswitch-as7-version-aut-as7


To: Nippy Normans
Happy New year! Have just fitted an AS7 auto switch to my 2005 R1200GS to run the Wunderlich flooter lights which I bought just before Xmas. Tapped and soldered into the Canbus system under the tank, switched positive (red and green) and the indicator cancellation wire (blue and white). Lights running off the battery via the relay and all working as advertised. Lights even switch off on their own after the bike is turned off. So far so good. The problem: after 10-15 minutes the AS7 goes dead and the lights switch off. The AS7 indicator light stays off and no amount of fiddling will get the flooters on again. If I turn the bike off and then on again, everything resets normally. Not sure what is going on. Does the switched wire (red/green) turn off if the Canbus perceives there to be too little current and so the AS7 then goes dead? Is the AS7 faulty? If I keep a small power drain on the switched positive will the system work? Many thanks, Derek


Reply
Derek

Never had a faulty one but a poor connection or ground has brought up the issue mentioned so please double check.

Regards

NN



I don't think there is a dodgy connection anywhere. The splices into the Canbus have been soldered as well as twisted round and the AS7 and the light earths are directly onto the battery.

Has anyone else had this problem and if so, what cured it?

Many thanks,

Derek

 

[Wapping]

Contact the manufacturer....

http://www.autoswitch.com/as7-technical-support.php

On their homepage they say:

Autoswitch News
03.20.2013 Verified AS7 series installation on 2012 and newer BMW bikes

So they obviously think it should work.

If it's shonky, take it up with Nippy.

 

[DerekP]

Wapping,
Thanks. Unfortunately, I still haven't migrated from a 2005 GS!
Cheers,
Derek

 

[Wapping]

They'll still know the answer and the electrics can't be much different, I guess.

 

[DerekP]

Wapping,
Done.
Wait and see what they say. If the unit is faulty I really do not fancy another day with the tank off!
Cheers,
Derek

 

[Wapping]

Splendid. All you needed was a bit of encouragement.

 

[tanneman]

First thing, when soldering 2 wires together make a hook out of the exposed ends (if it is splicing then just the 1 wire) not twisting it as you can have a dry solder. Heat shrink should be used to insulate the splice/joint. Wrapping the splice/joint in self amalgamating tape would add a bit of water proofness to it. Best is to power the AS7 from the battery and not a switched supply from the CANbus, thereby eliminating any CANbus related problems if you want to test the set up. The relay should have its own permanent supply from the battery using the AS7 to power the coil in the relay.

I used the older AS6B (same thing as the AS7) which was reported to have problems with the interference caused by HID lights and would switch off intermittently. Happened to me once or twice but I didn't use HID lights or it would not switch off with the CANbus thereby draining the battery twice. Regardless, I used the AS6 to power a relay and the relay would switch the power supply to a fusebox and from there I wired in my spotlights. Gives you the option to add other powered extras to the bike later on. I used the the original wiring installation to power my after market fog lights. Just had an adapter made by a friend to mount the spots and fogs (both Hella FF50 from HID50 which advertises on this site) in the same place. The switched supply for the AS6 came from the DIN plug in the tool holder. A bit tight for space to solder there but it came out a neat job.

I know it is a pain in the arse to do it all over again. I had a long think about it before I did the installation. Made my own wiring loom and wrapped it to look like an OE part and all the bits were mounted above the battery on a tray that said friend made me. The bar under the seat was replaced by 2 stubby bars to create the space needed. The bike was in bits for 2 days and to put the tank back was a pain in the arse as the Adventure tank needed some persuasion to line up with the rear mounting.

Happy hunting.

 

[DerekP]

Tanneman,
Thank-You for your time and the reply. I have standard bulbs on the spots and a single HID on the dipped headlight. The spots are wired via the relay and a fuse to the battery and the AS7 is also earthed to the battery. The switched positive is from under the tank not the diagnostic plug. All connections have been soldered after appropriate hooking but I suppose there's no harm in redoing them. Sigh.

Thanks again.

Derek

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

 

[tanneman]

It might very well be the AS7 is duff. Test it from the battery positive.

 

[DerekP]

Looks like a fun weekend ahead! I used to hate plumbing but I think sparking will soon top the list.

 

[DerekP]

Partial solution!

Took the bike out for a run today and the switch worked exactly as it is meant to.

The only difference from standing outside the house and ticking over is that I was at higher revs and had the sat-nav on. Seems likely, as above, that the slightly higher voltage from running and the slightly larger draw to recharge the sat-nav makes the difference.

Thanks for your replies.

If the makers get back to me I'll post their reply.

Best wishes,
Derek