Voyager61
Registered user
Is that what the soft clicking noise from the back end is then? I don't seem to get it every time I turn the key. I have been riding through winter and so far no problems.
Attention 2010+ DOHC owners
- Thread starter NLC
- Start date
Is that what the soft clicking noise from the back end is then? I don't seem to get it every time I turn the key. I have been riding through winter and so far no problems.
Farmer Palmer
Registered user
It should be quite a positive sound, not slow and squeaky........!
There's a video earlier in this thread that shows how it works etc
FP.
There's a video earlier in this thread that shows how it works etc
FP.
Any advice on how to service the exhaust valve?
I noticed yesterday that my valve has become squeaky so removed the cover and cables and gave it a good spray with WD40 and then lubed it.
I've done a search here but only found this thread (so far) and wondered if there is a guide on how to service the valve.
Any help would be appreciated (before I just disconnect it as others have done).
Regards.
Pete.
I noticed yesterday that my valve has become squeaky so removed the cover and cables and gave it a good spray with WD40 and then lubed it.
I've done a search here but only found this thread (so far) and wondered if there is a guide on how to service the valve.
Any help would be appreciated (before I just disconnect it as others have done).
Regards.
Pete.
Bump...
NLC
Registered user
Peter, the valve itself is just a spring with a bowden (sic) cable attached. If the valve is squeaking I would just put some ACF50 in it. If the servo unit is making the squeak then I would get the dealer to replace the unit (assuming it is under warranty). If the bike is indeed under warranty just get them to do it and you may end up getting a new valve and no need to get your hands dirty.
Hope that helps.Thanks N.L.C.
It's definately the valve starting to bind.
I took the cables off and manually turned it until it to freed up.
I've oiled it but wasn't sure if there was a specific service procedure and type of oil/grease I should be using.
It's definately the valve starting to bind.
I took the cables off and manually turned it until it to freed up.
I've oiled it but wasn't sure if there was a specific service procedure and type of oil/grease I should be using.
NLC
Registered user
davidblythe
Registered user
the flap on my 2010 gsa has been disconnected for 18000 miles, together with the cat removed and a beowulf exhaust fitted with a cutdown snorkel and the lamba sensors removed
i use a gs911 to service my bike, and it picks up a fault code from the ecu that the servo flap and lamba sensors are not connected (so am sure the dealer knows it has been done too)
i just clear the fault every service
also have autotune fitted with a pcv, and run 13.5 afr above 4000 rpm and 14.2 below
the pcv only adds fuel to get to 13.5 afr with larger throttle openings so am fairly certain that the ecu will cope with the above mods and keep the afr below 14.7 without the pcv (wouldn't have the same grunt thou)
i use a gs911 to service my bike, and it picks up a fault code from the ecu that the servo flap and lamba sensors are not connected (so am sure the dealer knows it has been done too)
i just clear the fault every service
also have autotune fitted with a pcv, and run 13.5 afr above 4000 rpm and 14.2 below
the pcv only adds fuel to get to 13.5 afr with larger throttle openings so am fairly certain that the ecu will cope with the above mods and keep the afr below 14.7 without the pcv (wouldn't have the same grunt thou)
ghiribizzo
Registered user
Mine started to make that 'motor trying to move a seized valve' sound when the key went on. As others have said, sometimes using the kill switch will make it move and stop the sound but it was constant.
Can off and then the cables and yes, just about movable with bare hands.
Of course warranty is up now!
Little muck on the outside due to the Mudsling and it could be cured by replacement or removal but jeez - do they never test these things? Surely the prototypes got a much harder time than mine. Or maybe constant use keeps it ok. Maybe condensation on the garage over the winter makes it seize?
It's freed off now with lots of WD40 but that will dry out rapidly. What to lube it with? I'd have thought that ACF 50 would dry out with the heat too.
Soak it in high temp gear oil for a few days?
Can off and then the cables and yes, just about movable with bare hands.
Of course warranty is up now!
Little muck on the outside due to the Mudsling and it could be cured by replacement or removal but jeez - do they never test these things? Surely the prototypes got a much harder time than mine. Or maybe constant use keeps it ok. Maybe condensation on the garage over the winter makes it seize?
It's freed off now with lots of WD40 but that will dry out rapidly. What to lube it with? I'd have thought that ACF 50 would dry out with the heat too.
Soak it in high temp gear oil for a few days?
Roymondo
Registered user
Mine is used pretty much daily all year round, and has already had the valve replaced twice due to it seizing up with only 10k miles covered from new, so I don't think it's a result of standing over the Winter etc. I'd put money on it needing replacement once or twice more before the warranty expires. Yamaha Exup valves were apparently prone to similar seizing, and the cure was to strip it out and lubricate the spindle with dry graphite powder, not grease. I'll probably try this approach when the time comes.
mcinlb
Registered user
Mine has not seized yet, but because of this thread, I have coated the internals with an oil/moly grease mix trying to get some on the spindles. Hope this keeps it functioning, but will need regular inspection / maintenance....
NLC
Registered user
When mine was repaired it was a case of taking it off the bike, good clean and lots
of ACF50. Haven't had a problem since.
ghiribizzo
Registered user
Right. WD40 will be wiped off and ACF50 applied. We'll see how long that lasts!
ghiribizzo
Registered user
Deleted account 251212001
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Is it possible the valve could seize open. 
My 2011 gets ridden every day on a short journey to work, i take it in all weathers, its only just clocked 2000 miles but seems to be sounding rattly (engine) and the exhaust louder.
It might just be fully run in, its no slouch, noisey and rattly but great fun.
My 2011 gets ridden every day on a short journey to work, i take it in all weathers, its only just clocked 2000 miles but seems to be sounding rattly (engine) and the exhaust louder.It might just be fully run in, its no slouch, noisey and rattly but great fun.
Roymondo
Registered user
They normally stick in the fully open position - Since that's the default/power off position (and there is a return spring on the spindle). The bike does sound a little bit noisier when the valve is stuck - and there is a bit more popping and banging on a trailing throttle. Both times mine seized I didn't notice any difference in top-end power or low down grunt - it was the mid-range that was slightly lacking.
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