my local main BM dealer told me NEVER separate the two halfs - utter waste of time .... just fold it up - hinging on the top frame rails, not ever attempted to see if they were correct - but it would leave half the wires still connected which must be 60 mins saved
Audio Diagnostic Please. It doesn't sound right and has no drive...
- Thread starter Lawrence_NZ
- Start date
The wiring is only a few plugs and cable ties.
I have always separated everything final drive swing arm etc , It gives you a chance to check and service bearings and seals.
Take your time and a few photos as to routing wiring brake and clutch pipes etc.
Don`t forget the bottom bolt frame to underneath the gearbox if it has not already fallen out.
I have always separated everything final drive swing arm etc , It gives you a chance to check and service bearings and seals.
Take your time and a few photos as to routing wiring brake and clutch pipes etc.
Don`t forget the bottom bolt frame to underneath the gearbox if it has not already fallen out.
A little rusty but all there. Both friction plates are hardly worn with good hub splines. Friction plate fingers are all good as is the chrome centre boss.
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Simples,
Stick it on the bench , clamp the front wheel in the wheel clamp.
4 straps to stabilise it and a jack plate under the sump.
Its not going anywhere,
Tell your dealer he’s talking utter bollox That advice applies to the 1100/1150 models - you can’t hinge up a 1200 rear subframe as the swingarm is attached to the subframe. The 1100/1150 swingarm is attached to the gearbox.
Sky hooks!
A little rusty but all there. Both friction plates are hardly worn with good hub splines. Friction plate fingers are all good as is the chrome centre boss
Which is the old / new friction plate
Try hinging this lot up 
. I wish people would only offer advice if they’ve actually done the job themselves, not pass on information they’ve heard from someone else… I secure the front wheel to my work bench then a small trolley Jack under the sump plate. Raise the jack just enough to lift the centre stand off the ground. Undo all the nuts bolts holding the rear subframe then wheel the rear subframe away from the bike… to disconnect the wiring undo the rear mudguard under the rear subframe (6 small torq bolts), the plastic section that’s above the rear wheel (if you know what I mean) this allows you to access the wiring and plugs under the rear rack and under seat area. Then as I said, wheel the rear subframe out if the way and leave it standing on its main stand and rear wheel —
. I wish people would only offer advice if they’ve actually done the job themselves, not pass on information they’ve heard from someone else… I secure the front wheel to my work bench then a small trolley Jack under the sump plate. Raise the jack just enough to lift the centre stand off the ground. Undo all the nuts bolts holding the rear subframe then wheel the rear subframe away from the bike… to disconnect the wiring undo the rear mudguard under the rear subframe (6 small torq bolts), the plastic section that’s above the rear wheel (if you know what I mean) this allows you to access the wiring and plugs under the rear rack and under seat area. Then as I said, wheel the rear subframe out if the way and leave it standing on its main stand and rear wheel —
We’ll if you’ve never done it stop offering advice… I secure the front wheel to my work bench (most have a wheel clamp specifically for doing that), then a small trolley jack under the sump plate, raise the bike just enough to lift the centre stand off the bench - job done.
They are both part worn/low miles. I changed it first time at about 14k in March 2015 due to slippage in 5/6th, didn’t cure it…….. A new slave cylinder did.
I then got a gearbox rattle at 47k so split the bike again to rebuild the ‘box with a new input shaft. Seemed daft not to fit a new friction plate whilst apart. I was tempted to refit the old friction plate and try for a refund on the new item as you couldn’t tell them apart, but decided just to fit the new one seeing as I had it in my hand.
I test rode it to the Gorge du Verdon and back, then made the mistake of ‘upgrading’ it to my 1250GSA.
Neither of these friction plates is glazed or warped, splined hubs are still like new, both are good for tens of thousands of miles if ridden normally and not abused.
(A hamfisted rider can wreck a GS dry clutch inside a few thousand miles.)
I would replace the 6 bolts with new ones, they can stretch when torqued up.
A little rusty but all there. Both friction plates are hardly worn with good hub splines. Friction plate fingers are all good as is the chrome centre boss.
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Lawrence_NZ
Registered user
Some good tips on the handling of the two heavy halves. I've got some sleepers in the gargae so think I'll be able to get somethign rigged up.
I've got the tank off today and drained it into the VFR. I'll try to get all the wiring out of the way tomorrow.
I'm taping the screws in place where I can and writing location info on others and keeping them in piles that relate to the part they came from. So far, this system seems to be fine. I've also taken a few pics and videos of routing wires so at the moment, gone easier than I feared.
Those parts look in better condition than the other parts on my bike @Pukmeister. Keen on getting them in a box on a boat. Shame to waste them and find them in the loft in 20 years when we are all on AI powered flying bikes. I've got an old UK account with some shillings in it that will make it a little easier if you are willing to fling them south.
@Steptoe would I be able to use my existing rod with those parts? It looks like 2015 on the box so assume I'd need to go with the >2008 version?
I've got the tank off today and drained it into the VFR. I'll try to get all the wiring out of the way tomorrow.
I'm taping the screws in place where I can and writing location info on others and keeping them in piles that relate to the part they came from. So far, this system seems to be fine. I've also taken a few pics and videos of routing wires so at the moment, gone easier than I feared.
Those parts look in better condition than the other parts on my bike @Pukmeister. Keen on getting them in a box on a boat. Shame to waste them and find them in the loft in 20 years when we are all on AI powered flying bikes. I've got an old UK account with some shillings in it that will make it a little easier if you are willing to fling them south.
@Steptoe would I be able to use my existing rod with those parts? It looks like 2015 on the box so assume I'd need to go with the >2008 version?
Lawrence, let me cross reference the clutch part numbers between early and later bikes to be sure they fit (I think they are all the same), what year is your 1200 ??
No point in shipping them from UK to NZ only to find they don’t fit.
I also have a spare clutch pushrod if you need one, for a >2008 model.
I’m not too worried about money, perhaps make a donation to a charity plus you pay for shipping ?
I just lost a good pal to prostrate cancer so I’d like to donate to that if it’s okay with you ??
No point in shipping them from UK to NZ only to find they don’t fit.
I also have a spare clutch pushrod if you need one, for a >2008 model.
I’m not too worried about money, perhaps make a donation to a charity plus you pay for shipping ?
I just lost a good pal to prostrate cancer so I’d like to donate to that if it’s okay with you ??
Lawrence_NZ
Registered user
Mine is a 2005 according to the national vehicle registration agency but the VIN shows up as a May 2004 production.
If it is a goer, very happy to make a donation and cover shipping.
hey I can upset steptoe yet again...
which VFR ? the 750 and 800s come with a budget rectifier that likes to self explode and can set fire to the bike (mates one was scrapped because he didn't do it earlier enough) buy a Yamaha R1 rec and fit that - its such a common mod places out there sell retrofit wiring kits for pennies
Lawrence_NZ
Registered user
2007 VFR, so far nothing indicates it neeeds a new rectifier but I had heard this was a common issue. I had a 2003 VFR in the UK for a while and managed to trade that unburnt, for a blackbird. I preferred the VFR in the end so picked up one when I could and never use it because the 1200 is so much comfier... I guess that is age talking.
I'll dig out a R1 replacement but would prefer only one bike in pieces at a time in case there is a sunny day and the stars align and I can ride into work
Regulator Rectifier | MOSFET | Honda | RVT 1000 RC 51 | VFR800 Interceptor | 2000-2009
7 wire Mosfet regulator rectifier to fit the models shown below. Note there is a 8 wire unit that is not compatible fitted to some models. Check which unit you have, we are not able to confirm for you. RVT 1000 RC 51 2002 2006 VFR 800 Interceptor 2000 2009 Replaces the following Honda P/Ns:...
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Lawrence, I have cross referenced all numbers on the MaxBMW Fiche site between ‘05 and ‘08 bikes and all the part numbers match (as expected). I’ve found the used clutch pushrod with felt and put it in the box of parts.
The only issue now is as you are not a subscriber I can’t private message you to sort payment and posting, and I don’t want to plaster my email address and bank details over a public internet forum.
I will try and get shipping estimates to NZ this week.
The only items you ought to try and purchase from BMW assuming you have an agent where you are in NZ are the six “Collar Screw” clutch mounting screws 21 21 7 684 771 there are used bolts in the kit but BMW advise to replace them after each use. If it’s a drame for you, I can probably get some from my BMW agent here in UK and put them in the box.
I lived for a while in Perth, WA which only had the one BMW dealer in 100,000 square miles so I have some sympathy for getting hold of stuff down under.
The only issue now is as you are not a subscriber I can’t private message you to sort payment and posting, and I don’t want to plaster my email address and bank details over a public internet forum.
I will try and get shipping estimates to NZ this week.
The only items you ought to try and purchase from BMW assuming you have an agent where you are in NZ are the six “Collar Screw” clutch mounting screws 21 21 7 684 771 there are used bolts in the kit but BMW advise to replace them after each use. If it’s a drame for you, I can probably get some from my BMW agent here in UK and put them in the box.
I lived for a while in Perth, WA which only had the one BMW dealer in 100,000 square miles so I have some sympathy for getting hold of stuff down under.
