Autocom Pro 7 Question

[swebb]

this may be a silly question, but here goes...

I've had an Autocom Pro 7 since it was first released (bought it years ago at the NEC on it's launch day) and it's been absolutely bullet proof....

however, of late my mp3 player (Ipod) has been cutting out when riding, and doing rather a lot of crackling in my ears.

I guess i'm thinking it's one of 3 things:

1) An ageing Pro 7 unit starting to die
2) A duff cable from Ipod to Pro 7
3) Failing autocom headset.

I've pretty much ruled out 3 as without music, speech is fine.

Next step is to swap out the cable from Ipod to Pro 7. (Does this need to be anything special, shielded etc?)

Or anyone have any other ideas?

cheers.

 

[beemerboy9]

Waggling the pin into the Autocom should reveal what is going on but I'd guess that it is duff or loose connections. Clean the pins with an electrical contact cleaner (or other alcohol) and then Bluetack the pin into the Pro-M7 to keep it steady.
This is the simplest and cheapest first step.

 

[GSrich]

this may be a silly question, but here goes...

I've had an Autocom Pro 7 since it was first released (bought it years ago at the NEC on it's launch day) and it's been absolutely bullet proof....

however, of late my mp3 player (Ipod) has been cutting out when riding, and doing rather a lot of crackling in my ears.

I guess i'm thinking it's one of 3 things:

1) An ageing Pro 7 unit starting to die
2) A duff cable from Ipod to Pro 7
3) Failing autocom headset.

I've pretty much ruled out 3 as without music, speech is fine.

Next step is to swap out the cable from Ipod to Pro 7. (Does this need to be anything special, shielded etc?)

Or anyone have any other ideas?

cheers.

I would try a different music lead first to see if this helps you. If your speech and normal headset usage is fine non of your headsets leads will need replacing due to this.

It could be the lead is starting to break down or it has been trapped a little so this could be causing you the problem. A new music lead is only £3 via a Part 1307.

Rich

 

[swebb]

I would try a different music lead first to see if this helps you. If your speech and normal headset usage is fine non of your headsets leads will need replacing due to this.

It could be the lead is starting to break down or it has been trapped a little so this could be causing you the problem. A new music lead is only £3 via a Part 1307.

Rich

This was the route i thought would make most sense, i've now replaced the lead and all seems good.....

One new question though...

I'm looking to have a combination of the following:

Mobile phone / Ipod / GPS feeds into the autocom, therefore:

According to the Autocom website, I need to have a "twin mixer" plugged into the "aux" socket with the GPS into the "isolated" side and my phone into the standard side. Then my Ipod straight into the music port.

So, my question.... do i need "isolated" or standard leads to connect my equipments... to be honest, i'm not even sure i know what an "isolated" lead is? I'm guessing it means electrically screened to prevent interference? If this is correct, then surely all the cables would benefit from being screened?

cheers peeps....

 

[beemerboy9]

This was the route i thought would make most sense, i've now replaced the lead and all seems good.....

One new question though...

I'm looking to have a combination of the following:

Mobile phone / Ipod / GPS feeds into the autocom, therefore:

According to the Autocom website, I need to have a "twin mixer" plugged into the "aux" socket with the GPS into the "isolated" side and my phone into the standard side. Then my Ipod straight into the music port.

So, my question.... do i need "isolated" or standard leads to connect my equipments... to be honest, i'm not even sure i know what an "isolated" lead is?

You need an isolated connection whenever you are feeding the audio from a BIKE-POWERED unit into the autocom. Therefore GPS (mine anyway) into GPS isolated socket on Autocom 1282 mixer lead, battery-powered phone into other socket. Since the mixer is isolated, one can use inexpensive non-isolated cables from the source into the mixer.

If you decide to bike-power the iPod, then you will need an isolated lead #1314 into the Autocom.

I'm guessing it means electrically screened to prevent interference? If this is correct, then surely all the cables would benefit from being screened?

cheers peeps....

 

[swebb]

You need an isolated connection whenever you are feeding the audio from a BIKE-POWERED unit into the autocom. Therefore GPS (mine anyway) into GPS isolated socket on Autocom 1282 mixer lead, battery-powered phone into other socket. Since the mixer is isolated, one can use inexpensive non-isolated cables from the source into the mixer.

If you decide to bike-power the iPod, then you will need an isolated lead #1314 into the Autocom.

Sorry to sound stoooopid... but does that mean............

As my GPS is bike powered, i'll need an isolated lead into the isolated twin mixer socket, or a standard lead into the isolated mixer socket?

My mobile, battery powered, will be fine with non-isolated lead into non-isolated mixer socket?

My Ipod, battery powred, will be fine with non-isolated lead straight into music socket of the autocom?

cheers again...

 

[beemerboy9]

Sorry to sound stoooopid... but does that mean............

As my GPS is bike powered, i'll need an isolated lead into the isolated twin mixer socket, or a standard lead into the isolated mixer socket?

Standard lead into isolated mixer socket. You do not need to sets of isolation.

My mobile, battery powered, will be fine with non-isolated lead into non-isolated mixer socket?

Phone - Standard lead into the phone socket (which is isolated anyway on the mixer)

My Ipod, battery powred, will be fine with non-isolated lead straight into music socket of the autocom?

Ipod - Standard lead into the music socket.