Back wheel play

Bohsfc

Bohsfc

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Drove the bike to work today for the first time in about 2 weeks. After about 2 mile into the journey I noticed a kick from the back wheel while banked on a bend. It wasthe type of feeling that you get when you have just got a puncture and the air is just starting to go down. Anyway I continued on and checked the tyre when I got to work and pressure wise all was well.

So rode home and still getting the feeling so investigated further and found some side to side play in the back wheel. It appears to be in the drive shaft/ Bevel box (I think thats what you call it) so my question is, is it a bearing in there that is the problem or something more sinister?

Have had a brief look at the manual on how to dismantle the back end but says it the bolt needs to be heated to release so would not have the equipment to hand.
Also had a look at motorworks and wondering which bearing to order?

http://www.motorworks.co.uk/bmw/pro..._15_30_EA_50&header_text=&header_text_image=0

Anyone help, Please??
 
Do a search on paralever bearing here.

You'll need 2 of these TRA11091 from your link and a hot air gun to soften the loctite.
Pay particular attention to the torque settings etc.
 
Timolgra said:
Do a search on paralever bearing here.

You'll need 2 of these TRA11091 from your link and a hot air gun to soften the loctite.
Pay particular attention to the torque settings etc.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that.

Just from reading a few other threads on here, I might just add that I removed the back wheel and could still feel the play at the bevel box so I reckon that this would point to the paralever bearing.
Given that the problem has just started and the play is minimal, how do I adjust the bearings to tighten them as has been mentioned in other threads?
 
Slacken the locknut on the inside of the swing arm and tighten the centre adjusting pivot which is I think a 12mm allen key/socket untill the play just disappears.

When fitting new bearings, tighten to 9nm slacken off and retorque to 7nm.
Then re torque the locknut, it's tight so check the settings!

You do this without removing the wheel with the right tools.


NB. they may both be tight due to loctite. I don't bother re applying loctite as they never seem to come loose:thumb
 
:thumb2
Timolgra said:
Slacken the locknut on the inside of the swing arm and tighten the centre adjusting pivot which is I think a 12mm allen key/socket untill the play just disappears.

When fitting new bearings, tighten to 9nm slacken off and retorque to 7nm.
Then re torque the locknut, it's tight so check the settings!

You do this without removing the wheel with the right tools.


NB. they may both be tight due to loctite. I don't bother re applying loctite as they never seem to come loose:thumb
Click to expand...

Fair play, thanks. Do I not need to take the wheel off to heat the locknut on the inside or does that one not have the loctite on it?:thumb2
 
Re-torque-ing the bearing will make the play come back soon.

You can give it a try, but I suggest new bearings or bronze bushings.

Write me an email if you need more info on these :D
 
Hi, sorry about being a newbie to all this, but we're talking about the final drive bearing aren't we?

I'm getting the GS serviced in a few weeks and I'm having a similar problem with mine.
 
bristoltriathlonking said:
Hi, sorry about being a newbie to all this, but we're talking about the final drive bearing aren't we?

I'm getting the GS serviced in a few weeks and I'm having a similar problem with mine.
Click to expand...

No we are discussing the paralever pivot bearings/swinging arm bearings, the "big" wheel bearing is another thing altogether. :thumb2

Stewart
 
Fair enough. I'll hopefully take it to Cardiff Mottorrad in the next few weeks for its 6,000 and get this done as well. As a guide (for me to save up enough cash!) what should I be expecting to pay for a replacement fitted Paralever and Final Drive bearing do you think?

Cheers, L
 
Swing arm bearing (R850/R1100/R1150 and Cruiser) | TRA11729
yes this is the ones you need

but bmw willams is :augie cheaper :hide

takes a bove 2 brews to swop over

do it the way timolgra said

heat is good
 
I have ordered the bearings from Motorworks but as of now they have not been dispatched. In preperation for getting them and thinking the job was going to be a nightmare, I got a heat gun and un-did the nuts and clened them up of loctite.

Dilemma is that now I have put the nuts back on, there is no play in the back wheel so do I cancel the order and see how it goes or given there was play in the first place do I just go ahead and change the bearings????:nenau
 
Have a look at the condition of the pivot bearings. I recently had the same problem as you with slight play in the rear wheel. This was because there was play at the final drive pivot bearings. In my case the inner race of the inner (adjustable) bearing had clear indentations in it, visible once all the grease had been removed. The wear could be felt with a finger nail. If there is no discernible wear in your bearings you might get away with re-torquing the inner one. Either way I'd be inclined to get the new bearings because sooner or later you'll need them if you intend keeping the bike for a while. In any event I wouldn't put loctite on the pivot pins when you replace them; that way you'll be able to re-torque without wheel removal. I just put witness marks on my pivot nuts - so far there is no sign of their coming loose.
 
Bohsfc said:
Dilemma is that now I have put the nuts back on, there is no play in the back wheel so do I cancel the order and see how it goes or given there was play in the first place do I just go ahead and change the bearings????:nenau
Click to expand...

Keep the bearings as spares. When the play comes back, which it will, sooner or later, you will have the parts needed :thumb2
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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