Ball Joint replacement

[Slipperyeel]

I'm about to replace the ball joint (1150 GS, 2000 model).

I've done some searching on the site and found lots of useful info so I know it's not quite going to be a 5min job...at least releasing that 46mm nut wont be.

My question is can this be done with the forks in place or is it better to remove the bridge altogether and work on that? Unscrewing that nut looks like the fun part which is why i ask

Cheers

 

[Ian J Hartley]

It's an absolute pig.

46mm double depth socket, or box spanner needing a breakout torque greater than 230nm to shift it.

I tried to remove one once. Couldn't get enough leverage on it with it still attached to the forks. That was with it off the bike. Slider tubes still in the bridge and the axle refitted and clamped to stiffen it all up.

But that was trying to do it solo. I might have been able to do it with assistance. The nut is so tight that holding everything firm whilst trying to remove it is very difficult. The socket kept jumping off. Fortunately I had wrapped lots of wadding around the sliders to protect them

In the end I took the fork bridge with ball joint still attached to my local BMW workshop and they removed it free of charge.

When replacing, or refitting I tighten the ball joint as tight as possible ( not to the specified 230NM ) and put a witnesss mark with indelible pen on the nut and casting to check for future movement.

Good luck

 

[Slipperyeel]

Thanks for sharing. The more I think about it, taking the bridge off completely and applying some serious heat is the answer. Then holding the nut in a vice and clobbering the bridge instead is going to be the answer... What could possibly go wrong

 

[topcat2006]

Thanks for sharing. The more I think about it, taking the bridge off completely and applying some serious heat is the answer. Then holding the nut in a vice and clobbering the bridge instead is going to be the answer... What could possibly go wrong

I did this and it was a piece of cake. (Didn't need the clobbering after the heat to melt the thread lock....)

Tom

 

[Slipperyeel]

Cheers Tom. My fingers are crossed . replacement arrives tomorrow or Friday. So Saturday is booked

 

[Smug]

Replaced a ball joint on my K1200S using an air impact wrench and standard 3/4" drive socket with 3/4"-1/2" adaptor. Stud of ball joint projected partly into 3/4" drive recess in socket but was not a problem.

Retightened as tight as possible with my 1/2" drive impact wrench and put a reference mark on the big ball joint hexagon and adjacent component to check when necessary for tightness.

 

[bcostell]

I took the complete bridge off of the forks, then cut a couple of pieces of ABS pipe which I clamped in to a workmate. Slid the bridge on to the ABS pipes so it was resting on the workmate top surface, tightened up the clamp screws to stop the bridge breaking, then used a long ratchet while shoving my foot against the workmate to stop it turning. Did the reverse when torquing the new joint.

 

[Slipperyeel]

Thanks for all the posts. I've got an idea what to expect now.

Got the ball joint and nut. Planning works for Saturday and still planning to take forks out and bridge off then get it into the workshop (heat + vice).

Any tips on re-aligning the top and bottom yokes (bridge and triple clamp) on re-assembly? Had plenty of experience servicing conventional forks but unsure if there's anything i should be looking out for with this set up?

 

[Rare-Red]

when I did mine on my R1100 S I dismantled everything and clamped the hexagon of the ball joint in my vise and turned the yoke it worked very well

 

[The smudger]

A heat gun is you're best friend....

Be very careful, use the heat to get the bolts out that hold the bridge to the fork legs, if one of them snap you're in trouble.

The manual says heat up the brace and use the special tool in a vice. I did mine using the right stuff and heat it's easy, might be worth taking the brace to a dealer......

Good luck!

 

[Slipperyeel]

Hey Smudger.

Thanks for that tip. I hadn't planned to heat those bolts but you've just changed that! Definitely don't want to sheer one of those.... If i get the bridge off then once it's in the workshop i am sure things will be ok (famous last words!)

Cheers!

 

[Slipperyeel]

Right. All done! Yep, that 46mm is seriously tight! But with it in the workshop, lots of heat and a 1.5m length of 3x2 it was all fairly straight forward. The fork bridge however began to show its age and most of the paint came off so ended up taking it all off and doing a hammerite job on it. Old ball joint was clearly fecked, notchy as hell so I'm looking forward to getting out there and feeling the difference!

Anyway, I have a question. With a properly assembled front end, how much would you expect the front wheel to spin? Annoyingly I can't remember how well the wheel spun before I took it all apart, but after reassembly I have a front wheel that won't quite complete a full revolution when I try to spin it. Should I be happy with that or keep fiddling until it's improved?

 

[Slipperyeel]

Sorted. Been out for a spin and everything is perfect. Wheel spins better than before so the last bit of fiddling i did may have improved it. To be honest the ball joint must have been on its way out since i bought the bike as the handling is better than it ever was.

Here are some images of the job. May prove useful for others. I know you can see some Moly grease left in the old joint, but clearly that doesn't reflect on the actual condition of the joint. Mine was definitely buggered!

The offending ball joint.

State of the bridge before the heat got to it...

Old ball joint removed, lots of old paint too...

Making up before Hammerite (silver, smooth)

Sprayed and installed (light was fading so impatient to get it all back together)

 

[Slipperyeel]

The finished job:

 

[The smudger]

A cracking job well done that man....

Are the clamp bolts S/S? if so just make sure you use copaslip or similar or they will seize like fcuk.......

 

[Slipperyeel]

Thanks Smudger. Having seen your post of the latest update on your rolling restoration not sure I feel worthy!

Bolts are the originals but they're showing up the paint job so already thinking of stainless so tip appreciated.

 

[Kevin Brett]

Sorted. Been out for a spin and everything is perfect. Wheel spins better than before so the last bit of fiddling i did may have improved it. To be honest the ball joint must have been on its way out since i bought the bike as the handling is better than it ever was.

Here are some images of the job. May prove useful for others. I know you can see some Moly grease left in the old joint, but clearly that doesn't reflect on the actual condition of the joint. Mine was definitely buggered!

The offending ball joint.

State of the bridge before the heat got to it...

Old ball joint removed, lots of old paint too...

Making up before Hammerite (silver, smooth)

Sprayed and installed (light was fading so impatient to get it all back together)

Hi, what is the torque setting of the nut on top of the ball joint?

 

[albatross]

Have a look here…..
? Leading Link to ball joint…I am not sure….