Bashing out bent 1200 GSA Aluminium Panniers

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PittsPilot

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I have acquired a full set of BMW GSA panniers but the top box and left hand (exhaust side) panniers are quite bent. I have tried to bash them out, as the bends didn't look too bad to me, but they just pop back again or go out of square somewhere else. A local panel beater told me that aluminium needs to be heated before being panel beaten and that he would charge more than the panniers are worth to do the work. I did get the feeling that he didn't want to do it.
I have three questions, is he right about them needing to be heated? Is this something I could, reasonably and safely, do myself? And finally, does anybody know a coachworks/panel beater who may do it for a reasonable cost?
 
By your use of the very term "bash", no you cannot do it yourself bonny lad:eek

Pictures would be useful.
Thanks Smiler400. "Bash" is a generic term I use for lovingly caressing them back in to shape with a big hammer and some bits of wood, but I must admit, it's not working.
I will post some pictures when the camera battery is charged tomorrow and there is some daylight.
 
If you bash it you may do more damage, and stretch the material and that might give you more problems
If you heat aluminium it will aneal and stay soft not good
Any bashing that you do will allways be visable unless you are very lucky some pictures would help Good luck :thumb
 
If you bash it you may do more damage, and stretch the material and that might give you more problems
If you heat aluminium it will aneal and stay soft not good
Any bashing that you do will allways be visable unless you are very lucky some pictures would help Good luck :thumb

Ok, the first two pictures are of the bottom of the top box, one from inside and one from outside. It has been pushed in about 1/2 inch on the left and subsequently now sits lopsided on the rack.P1000929.jpg

P1000932.jpg

The next pictures are of the left pannier which has a small dent on the outside but appears to be bowed aon the long edges at the top as does the lid which now does not close properly at one end.
 

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They dont look bad at all i would not think about heat
The bottom of the pannier would be the best place to start

Carefully drill out rivets holding plastic corners on
Cut a flat piece of wood or thick mdf etc 2 or 3 mm smaller than the flat base
Place the box on top of a solid flat base with no marks in it (plywood,mdf etc sitting on concrete floor)
Place the cut wood inside the box then you can bash that down if you can not swing a mallet inside the box use a piece of timber as a extension between wood and hammer
Dont hit the aluminium with a steel hammer the base should flatten quite easy by the look of it
The plastic corners can be refitted with small s/s bolts put a small amount of sealer in holes first
It sounds worse than it is i am a bit far away or i would take them into work for you
 
Big hammers and wood wont do anything but cause more damage. You need a proper panel beating hammer and a dolly available from machine mart and arent expensive. Its not the weight of the hammer that matters but the weight of what your hammering against (the dolly) so it doesn't just all bounce. Work around the edge of the dent until you get it flat. If the metal is stretched you will need a shrinking hammer again from machine mart or part of the kit if you get a decent one. This will shrink the metal taking the stretch out. Heating is a good idea as it makes the metal softer to work with but the plastic bit might be a problem unless you can remove the panel via the rivets. If you can then rub soap on one side and use a gas torch on the other. Heat until the soap goes black and stop heating that area. Aluminium self hardens with age (days) and or beating it so it staying soft will not be a problem, in fact you might have to heat it a couple of times to keep it nice and soft. Just go slow and work away at it and it will all come back into shape without too much trouble. The shrinking hammer will put lots of dots in the metal (its like a small metal steak tenderising type thing) so a sand of the surface and a polish will be needed but nothing major.
Alternatively get the worst out as best you can, use some body filer and paint them. Least they wont corrode after that. Remember and use acid etch primer or the paint wont stick to the aluminium.
 
I should also say that heat spreads very very quickly in aluminium so be careful where your hands and plastic bits are.
 
Hi,

To anneal aluminium rub a bar of soap (any "flavour") onto the aluminium to leave a small amount of soap on the surface, then gently heat using a blowtorch on the other side of the sheet from the soap, when the soap changes colour (will go brown-ish) the aluminium has been warmed enough to anneal it, then leave it to cool (don't dunk it in cold water).

Or you can go to BOC for a Tempil Stick (can't remember the temp though).
 
Thanks for all the input Gentlemen. I will go and buy a set of panel beating hammers and dollys and see how I get on.

I will let you know the results.
 
don't bother, they add to the image of adv riding. :cool:

for water proofness there are lots of good bags to suit panniers and are waterproof:thumb2

The top box may look cool slanting down to one side but the lid on the pannier just doesn't want to close poroperly at all, so that one definitely needs teasing back in to shape. Or else not bother with the lid at all. :rolleyes:

I wonder if it's possible to buy the plastic sealing ring that goes around the top. Does anybody know?
 
might be worth checking a breakers for broken panniers and use bits and pieces to repairs yours although they dont look to sturdy so might not survive many accidents.

Steptoe has a topbox for sale...check FS&W section
 
Thanks for all the input Gentlemen. I will go and buy a set of panel beating hammers and dollys and see how I get on.

I will let you know the results.

Don't bother with the expense. You do not know how to use them and you are not forming the wing of a Type 27 Bugatti.

Just do as the bod says. Find a flat surface. Place a suitable sized piece of wood beneath the side / bottom. Use another piece of wood, hit by a hammer, to spread the blow (load) while you bash / tap it roughly into shape.

With a bit of trial and error you should be able to get it reasonably flat. Failing that, bin them and buy some more.

Yes, you can buy replacement gaskets. Where from? Your local BuMW dealer, if I had to guess.
 
Well, in the end I found a local coachworks with a sympathetic panel beater experienced in working aluminium. He has worked both of them and they are, pretty much, perfect. All for the princely sum of £70.00 for both. I think that was money well spent, considering how much worse I might have made them.
Thanks to everybody for their input.
 
I'm always one for giving it a go, when things need sorted but sometimes, you do the the experienced hand of a craftsman :)

money well spent I'd say, any photo's of the repaired items ?
 
Well done...it's easier to get it done professionally sometimes..and cheaper..

..by the time you'd have bought the tools from Machine Mart, materials etc how much woulfd you have saved?..

..plus had panel beating tools laying in your shed that would never see the light of day again. :blast

Well done for giving it a go though :thumb2
 
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