Batteries, chargers and replacements

alexcorral said:
Can I charge the battery on my F800 GS via the power socket beside the ignition switch?
Click to expand...

Unless you pay BMW prices for their bespoke charger, you will not be able to charge the battery through the power socket. You have 2 options (IMO)
1. Add a second power connecter which runs directly to the battery (through a fuse)
2. Have a cable as you describe, which lives under the seat.

Steve
 
divelandy said:
Unless you pay BMW prices for their bespoke charger, you will not be able to charge the battery through the power socket. You have 2 options (IMO)
1. Add a second power connecter which runs directly to the battery (through a fuse)
2. Have a cable as you describe, which lives under the seat.

Steve
Click to expand...

This is not necessary
It can be done done this way.

1. Switch the ignition key on.
2. Start charging using the DIN socket
3. Switch the ignition switch of, the canbus system will stay open while you are charging.

cheers.
 
What is the canbus system?

Can I simply connect the clamps on my battery tender jr to the two terminals on the din plug?
 
I would recommend getting a DIN plug for the charger. It is much easier for the long run.
It was available for the Optimate III. But if you can't get it as an accessory for your charger you can get the plug anywhere, I picked up a few from Nippy Normans not so long ago.
 
kalli said:
This is not necessary
It can be done done this way.

1. Switch the ignition key on.
2. Start charging using the DIN socket
3. Switch the ignition switch of, the canbus system will stay open while you are charging.

cheers.
Click to expand...

Are you sure? When I use the Din socket for say my iPod, after turning off the ignition, the system stays alive for only a few minutes.

Of course it may well be different in charging mode.
 
chrisjk said:
Are you sure? When I use the Din socket for say my iPod, after turning off the ignition, the system stays alive for only a few minutes.

Of course it may well be different in charging mode.
Click to expand...

Absolutely, less than a week since we did it on a 650.
I was as surprised as you because when I set up my bike I installed dashboard plate from Touratech with a DIN pug and wired it directly to the battery.
 
I would recommend getting a DIN plug for the charger. It is much easier for the long run.
Click to expand...

Just a DIN plug with two leads/terminals on which to clamp my charger?
 
Will do. Thanks for the help!

I'm used to charging my KTM 450 XCR-W batery every after every sunday ride. If not, I'll run out of power in th emiddle of the ride :(
 
pushed battery

was away camping over the weekend and for the first time, ran my heated vest, aux lights, heated grips, GPS, autocom and HID's, and the alternator couldn't cope. Would a hawker battery help, or is the alternator simply not up to the task and I'd be better dumping the aux halogens?
 
I'm remembering an analogy from school here...

Electricity is a lot like water in many respects.. voltage can be likened to pressure and current can be likened to a volume of flow... Strangely, a battery can be looked at like a water tank..!

Ok, Imagine the cold water tank in your loft... The supply gives a constant maximum fill, but the flow is determined by the water level in the tank ... the ball-cock shuts off supply as the level in the tank reaches a maximum.

Ok - now start turning taps on in the house ... the basin taps, pah - not much water flow there and the ball-cock opens slightly, overall tank level maintained... Kitchen taps too... ball-cock opens more, more water flows into the tank, level maintained. Bath taps now ... hmmm ball-cock is fully open and as much water flows from the tank as flows into it so the overall level is maintained. Now... switch on the garden sprinkler - the ball-cock is already flowing as much water as it can, but there is more water flowing out of the tank than is going in ... If this combination of demand continues, then ultimately, and despite the ball-cock being fully open, the tank will eventually become empty.

The battery on the bike is a 'tank' and can hold a given amount of electricity (the amp-hour rating shows this..) The alternator is the supply, the regulator/rectifier is the equivalent of the ball-cock and the devices we run from the bike are the equivalent of the taps inside our house...

The alternator gives a fixed maximum output, the battery can store a certain amount of electricity, but if the demand we put on the system exceeds the storage capacity of the battery it will eventually go flat. End of.

There's been a recent thread on almost exactly the same subject - you just need to be aware of the limitations of the alternator and make sure you've got sufficient charging current left to ensure a healthy battery. A 'bigger' battery (one with a higher A/h rating - but would it physically fit?) won't solve the problem, but being aware of how much juice you're using will..

Greg
 
Greggers said:
The alternator gives a fixed maximum output, the battery can store a certain amount of electricity, but if the demand we put on the system exceeds the storage capacity of the battery it will eventually go flat. End of.

There's been a recent thread on almost exactly the same subject - you just need to be aware of the limitations of the alternator and make sure you've got sufficient charging current left to ensure a healthy battery. A 'bigger' battery (one with a higher A/h rating - but would it physically fit?) won't solve the problem, but being aware of how much juice you're using will..
Click to expand...

A highter capacity battery will take longer to go flat all things being equal, and you might find it advantageous to fit an ammeter onto the bike so that you can make a judgement of whether you want to see + be warm + keep on moving. I'd guess the GPS and autocom are not worth bothering about with regards to power usage.

Do you need all the extra lights?
 
In any case get it sorted cos I don't fancy running down a boreen in Donegal again sweating like a badger trying to get you started again :D
 
battery went flat. if i turned the bike off, there was nothing in the battery to get it going again...dead. as david said, he and everywherevirtually had to help me jump start it. think i'll lose the aux lights.
 
sijohnston said:
think i'll lose the aux lights.
Click to expand...

It's not the lights, trust me. It's the heated clothing, BTDT. I've changed one of my data fields on my 276C to "voltage" now on the main screen just so I can tell when I start to dip below 12V.

My main culprit is the heated jacket liner. I can run the halogens, heated grips, GPS, etc. and still stay above 12V (but for at idle), but crank up the heated jacket and she has a hard time keeping above 12V even on the highway.

Another electrical question, not being an EE, something 100W can have different amperage draw right?, i.e. my halogens are 55W a piece, but they don't draw the amps like my 100W jacket. :confused:
 
John Armstrong said:
Power = Current squared x resistance

Power = voltage x current

http://physics.bu.edu/~duffy/py106/Resistance.html
Click to expand...


8d.GIF


8e.GIF


Stupid me, that explains everything....:eek:
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Slipperyeel
Lithium batteries - chargers
2
Replies
36
Views
6,280
Bendy toy


Back
Top Bottom