Battery? Alternator?

[Slipperyeel]

Parked up the bike on Friday evening (GSA twin Spark servo). Came to start it this morning and none of the usual noises... servos whirr as they should. A feint noise from the pump. Clock has zeroed itself. When I try to start it (ignoring all the red lights flashing etc) I just get a clicking from the solenoid.

It has a new battery bought in S Germany (for those of you that remember my story from a few of weeks back). I did skimp though and bought a lead acid job. Would that have really made a difference?!

unless someone here can say lead acid batteries are just not up to the job then I wouldn't expect this so I'm wondering if the alternator is behaving?

Thoughts welcome. I'll have to get onto it tonight. I have a spare battery so switching to that will be my first move.

 

[Timolgra]

Fit a proper battery.

 

[Packer]

If the battery has a high enough cranking capacity the standard lead acid should do the job. Sounds like you have a different problem. Check battery connections are clean and tight enough. Check earth connections.

If you are confident with the electrical side of things connect a jump lead from the battery +ve to the supply side of the solenoid. If it cranks OK you've got a problem with switch, wiring or relay, i.e. all of the bits that the jump lead bypassed. If it doesn't crank ok put the second jump lead on the battery -ve and connect to the starter motor mounting bolt. If that fixes it you have an earth issue, possibly the main earth on top of the bell housing. If it doesn't solve it the battery may be low on charge and you have a charging circuit issue. Easily tested if you have a voltmeter.

 

[DrFarkoff]

what capacity is the battery?

Did you put the steering lock on an inadvertantly leave parking lights on?

If you look in is the battery swollen (result of overcharging)
Charge the battery and see what happens when you start and run the motor what volts are going to the battery Max should be 15 but get a half decent or new Meter

To test for discharge while ign is off you'll need an ammeter tween the battey +ve and the battery
It shouldnt be more than 0.02amp

 

[Slipperyeel]

Thanks for the replies. I'm wondering about leaving the parking light on...I might have done that? But I'll run some things through tonight and let you know

 

[DrFarkoff]

NEw batteries don;t just run down there has to be a cause

You've had had it fitted a few weeks So unlikely faulty

Two Options you left lights on accidentally

Battery is not holding charge due to X Y or Z

Thanks for the replies. I'm wondering about leaving the parking light on...I might have done that? But I'll run some things through tonight and let you know

 

[Slipperyeel]

NEw batteries don;t just run down there has to be a cause

You've had had it fitted a few weeks So unlikely faulty

Two Options you left lights on accidentally

Battery is not holding charge due to X Y or Z

I think you're right. I have occasionally switched the ignition key too far and put the parking light on but I've always noticed. I might have just not noticed this time?

If it's not that, then I'll have to start hunting but it's odd that all was well and then suddenly not, hence parking light seems a good bet.

 

[Slipperyeel]

Can someone put me straight on a detail. I'm going to charge the battery tonight. I have an outlet from the starter (the one Ruth the big + symbol on the rubber cap).

Am I right in thinking i can just connect to this and the other to am earth?

 

[Timolgra]

Can someone put me straight on a detail. I'm going to charge the battery tonight. I have an outlet from the starter (the one Ruth the big + symbol on the rubber cap).

Am I right in thinking i can just connect to this and the other to am earth?

Yes but you have a lead acid battery which possibly means you needs to undo the the caps.

 

[Slipperyeel]

Yes but you have a lead acid battery which possibly means you needs to undo the the caps.

Thanks for that. And good point about the venting. This one has a dedicated vent so it should be Ok.

 

[Ian J Hartley]

I wouldn't rule out your starter motor.

I know it's been damaged, but it is a rotating device. It is possible that on all previous starts the motor rotated and stopped on good windings. The last time it stopped it has stopped on damaged windings, and is drawing a high current.

That's what I would be assuming, and I would look there first.



Edit
Sorry just re-read your post, clock reset before starter engages, looks like Battery or heavy current drain elsewhere, ignore my bit about starter motor.

 

[Slipperyeel]

I wouldn't rule out your starter motor.

I know it's been damaged, but it is a rotating device. It is possible that on all previous starts the motor rotated and stopped on good windings. The last time it stopped it has stopped on damaged windings, and is drawing a high current.

That's what I would be assuming, and I would look there first.



Edit
Sorry just re-read your post, clock reset before starter engages, looks like Battery or heavy current drain elsewhere, ignore my bit about starter motor.

I'm open to all ideas so thanks! Not wasted on me

I'm about to connect the charger and leave it over night. If it was the battery then tomorrow morning should mean it's fixed. Fingers crossed I just left the parking light on!

 

[Ian J Hartley]

Lead acid battery is pretty old technology, your bike had a gel battery fitted as standard.

When you purchased the battery was it dry charged and the mechanic added the acid at time of purchase? If not, and the battery has had acid in it for a while, it might be duff. Generally they last about 3 to 5 years from the time of fill. Gel batteries have a date stamp on them to cover this as they come pre-filled.

Just remember that lead acid batteries when fitted to the earlier bikes, had a drain pipe running from the battery vent to the overboard drain aft of the right foot peg. Your bike would not have one fitted as standard as gel batteries don't need a drain. If you drop the bike, the acid from the battery will do severe damage without the drain pipe fitted.

Ian

 

[Slipperyeel]

Ian. You're spot on as usual. Though on this occasion I was the mechanic who filled the battery with acid ;-). I was interested to note the underside of the tank is shaped to accept the vented battery. And yes, i thought at the time "I'd better not drop it with this battery in!".

But back to the bike. Battery charged over night. Switched on. More positive whirring. Fuel pump still not as loud as I would expect (is this a clue?). Warning lights now behaving normally. Tried to fire it up. Just a click from the solenoid. Tried again. Almost most nothing second time. I noted the HID was flickering. If there was a big fat drain from the battery (remember the engine isn't running - so running off the battery) this seems like something it would do?

So the idea that the starter is fooked again is number one on my list. But after that the searching will have to begin. Grrrrr!

 

[Ian J Hartley]

The HID flickering is a bit confusing. The HID should go off when you press the start button, and come back on when you release.

The small yellow relay inside your fuse box is the Load Relief relay. It's job is to shed all other loads, like lights (though not the rear light), when you press the start button so that full battery power is available for the starter motor, motronic and fuel pump. If you think this relay could be a problem then you can swop it for the black relay (horn) next to it. They are identical in layout and function apart from current rating.


Ian

 

[Slipperyeel]

Sorry. I wasn't clear. The HID is not flickering when the starter is pressed.

 

[Timolgra]

Fit a proper battery

 

[Slipperyeel]

Fit a proper battery

That's coming! But right now I need to find the source of the drain. But who do people recommend getting a well priced battery from? I've heard of Motobat, I think that's the name?

 

[Timolgra]

here
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motobatt-...pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item1c414022c6

from the link get one by friday, or you can see what type it is and search for one locally

 

[DrFarkoff]

There may not be a drain at all you may simply have an overcharging alternator boiling the schite out of the lead acid battery (what are the electrolyte levels like now?)

You need a half decent battery first of all Or being a twin spark do you have the external charging points?

You could plant a car battery Or off your car (but not running and ignition off!) beside it and stick jump leads on the jump points (BE warned I would not use a jump start pack!)

Once you have it running you could check the volts across those terminals and it should not be over 15 (unless you have a badly calibrated meter but then the car battery will probably read 14.5 or more when its not running)