Battery charging rate?

Carefulkev

Active member
UKGSer Subscriber
Joined
Oct 8, 2003
Messages
194
Reaction score
2
Location
West Midlands, England
I have checked the charging rate across my battery & it is 14.8 volts at around 2000rpm. Anyone know if this is normal? Seems slightly on the high side to me:confused: The bike is a 1999 1150GS without ABS or heated grips so its got the 14 amp-hour battery & I believe it has the smaller alternator. I had a problem in the south of France last summer & had to fit a new battery because the original (I assume original) one boiled. At the time I put this down to a duff cell or the long run down the motorway in hot weather but I'm not keen on a repeat saga this year. I'm not so clued up on the electrical side of things so any info / advice on this subject would be much appreciated.

Kev
 
Don't quote me

Seems a bit high, nearer 13.5 would have been mu guess. How about putting the battery on a battery charger, and measuring across the battery for a reference?
 
I'd say yer up for a new regulator ... it is inside the alternator .. should be a connectort on its back, then 2 screws to remove it ... just like a car one.
 
Carefulkev said:
I have checked the charging rate across my battery & it is 14.8 volts at around 2000rpm. Anyone know if this is normal?

It's only marginally high.

Without ABS you should have a Denso alternator - it's rated at 14v.

Greg
 
An up-date:

Went for 150 mile ride today with me voltmeter strapped on the tank. Max reading was around 14.82. I checked the battery temp a few times at stops & it was cold. Think I will monitor the situation for a while to see if it gets worse before going for a new regulator. I believe a new regulator comes complete with a new alternator....................not unless anybody knows any different?

Thanx for the info to date Greg, Frank & John,
I will keep you posted.


:thumb
 
Think you will find that the maximum charging voltage you are getting is about normal without any load on the alternator.

A more accurate indication is the full load test with lights, hazards and heated grips on you should be around 13.2 volts at 1500 rpm.

If the regulator was faulty you would get an unregulated voltage of around 16 to 18 volts with full load or not.

Out of interest a trickle charge from a battery charger is about 14 volts.
 
Thanx Mel,

Gave the above "on load" test a try. Got a reading of about 14.35 to 14.75 - fluctuating up & down as the hazards went on & off. It dropped a fair bit as the revs went down toward 1000rpm. It seems to be between Ok & to high? I will continue to monitor over the next couple of months. Kev
 
Err just a thought .. is the DVM ok? Be funny (not) if you bought a new regulartor, fitted it and found the DVM was reading high. What is the 'rest' voltage of the battery? By that I mean if you leave the battery say overnight what is its voltage before you start the bike? should be less that 12.5 volts.. if it is more than that I'd check the DVM.. may be someone close has another DVM?

Oh and yes you can get a regulator without buying the whole alternator .. but they usually come with the brushes..

The regulator will try to maintain the voltage ..despite the load, or revs.. that is what it is there for.
 
Thanks for that point Frank, but I tried a mate's meter & unfortunatley the readings were the same. Also tried a ampmeter today at work - the type that just clip around the outside of the wire insulation. Amps went up to about 4 to 5 amps imidiately after starting then gradually dropped off as the energy used by the starter motor was topped up. All OK on the amps front I think. Apart from the highish charging rate all seems to be OK, no blowing bulbs etc. Guess I will just have to keep an eye on it from time to time. One good point though......... I've learnt a lot about that electricary stuff in the last couple of weeks

:P

Kev
 
Charging rate etc.

Test one:
Battery voltage with NO current consumers 'on' except clock.
Readings with digital voltmeter 12.5 - 13.5 volts (depends on quality of battery)

Test two:
Place voltmeter positive lead probe on positive (+) battery terminal and place in turn the negative (-) lead probe onto the frame earth point, now try the engine /gearbox case for earth. There should be no discernable volt drop (this test is known as volt drop in the insulated earth return circuit) If you detect a volt drop of more than .25volt then try cleaning the earthing points/contact area, cables can become work hardened and create a high resistance to current flow. Perform earth test on alternator body (+ probe on +bat terminal and - probe onto alternator case there should be no discernable volt drop if there is try the mounting bolts to ensure tightness you may even like to add a seperate earthing wire from the engine/frame to alternator case/mount.

Test three:
Place voltmeter (+) probe onto B+ terminal of alternator (this should be permanently live and should give you the same reading as battery voltage (ignition off)

Test four :
Voltmeter across battery, turn igntion on; volt drop should be some where about 0.7 - 0.8 volt approximately (depends upon powered consumables run from ignition on 'only' sat/nav etc)

Test five:
Remove spark plug caps, place safely to prevent shorting to earth, potential fire all the usual H & S stuff etc. Voltmeter across battery, crank her over and watch the voltmeter reading (only crank for approx. 5-6 seconds. Reading will be voltage drop induced by the starter in this case possible readings should be in the region of 10.5 - 9.75 volts (take the reading away from initial battery with no load reading and that is the induced voltage drop)

Test six:
This would normally be a starter under load test for current (amps) consumption, however you are only concerned with the alternator output. So we will assume now that you have established some tangible readings with the charging system under load.

To my mind (if only you knew what readings you had before this worry) as you state that your original battery 'boiled' then I would go for a faulty voltage regulator. On most Bosch alternators the regulator can be replaced very easily and can be seen as either a small protruding 10 pence piece sized component held in by either two torx headed screws or small bolts. The alternative would be a small oblong black plastic encased regulator again easy to replace.

14.8 volts is indicating that the alternator is working flat out most of the time either because the battery is not sufficiently big enough (capacity wise) or you have a very large current drain somewhere. Of course it could be that the regulator is on the boarder line limits of acceptable mass production tolerances.
The fact that the battery boiled dry doesn't necessararily mean its the alternators fault, that could have been caused by (don't take this the wrong way) an oversight on the maintenance schedule..ignoring the battery..

I suppose it could also be that you have too large a battery and a not powerful enough alternator, this is probable what with no heated grips or abs and a foriegn dealer. I don't know but I hope this little info is helpful to you....oi wake up!
 
Thanx Tony - no deffinately not asleep. Quite the opposite infact. The above tests would be good reference for anyone. I will try & carry out the tests one evening this week & post the results. Interesting point you make about the battery. I didn't consider this could make any difference to the charging load. The one that I purchased in France (& currently in use - pun not intended) was not from a BMW dealer. It is a "sealed for life" one, 14 amp hour but slightly smaller (physically) than the original & was very expensive - not sure if the high cost was because it's a good quality battery, my (lack of) grasp of the French language and/or the desperate look on my face at the time! :rolleyes: With reference to the maintenance (fair & valid point) of the "original" battery I did check the fluid level before the trip but nowt else (battery wise), which may have been in hindsight a bit risky as I am not the first owner - guess I would have at least had reference data which as you say would but useful now!

Anyway I'll carry out the tests & take it from there............



:beerjug:


Kev

:)
 
Test results: (from above)


Tests 1 to 3 all = 13.04 volt

Test 4 = 0.7 volt drop

Test 5 = 2.5 induced voltage drop

Out of interest the Alternator has a "Denso" sticker on it & the battery purchased in France is a "President" - "valve regulated lead-acid battery" GT 14B-4 - never heard of that make meself.
My plan is to just monitor the situation over the coming months & if all stays the same I will take it to France in the summer as it is & if it worsens................... I will try a new regulator.

Thanks all again for your help / suggestions. Its been much appreciated :thumb :thumb :thumb

Kev
 
Perhaps you shouldn't have checked the voltage in the first place!

Did you actually have a problem or was it just curiosity?

Greg

PS Don't be tempted to hook up an oil pressure gauge!!
 
Greg, I'm beginning to think the same myself!!!!!
But as I was booking the Ferry for this years outing I just sorta though back to the hassles last year............. & I just sorta thought it would'nt hurt to check the charging rate ........... just in case................:doh



Now an oil pressure gauge ....... that's a thought:idea

or maybe a pair of vacuum gauges to constantly check the throttle balance..................


;)



Kev
 
An update:

I continued to monitor the charging rate and it stayed the same so I went on the trip to the south of France a couple of weeks ago without changing anything & my fingers crossed. Air tempretures were up to 36C on some days & guess what, the battery stayed as cool as a cucumber. So to conclude the problem points towards a fault with the first battery & a charging rate of around 14.8 is OK.

Thanks again to all for your help & suggestions.....


Kev
 
14.8 is high for me.
But looking here
http://www.uuhome.de/william.darden/carfaq5.htm

Showes that the thing is more temperature sensitive that I thought.

The regulator should be replacable without replaceing the whole alternator... same goes for the brushes, diodes and bearings. Any automotive electrician would be able to work on the alternator .. just remove it from the bike and save your self some money.
 
The mechanic basically covered everything in his post ,but just to add a couple of things.
If the bulb goes in the charge indication light car type alternators will not charge on start up , the lamp current is used for initial exitation of rotor winding, nb do not fit a smaller wattage lamp as current will not be enough.
next if u r that worried about the regulator run the bike with the lights & heated grips on , this will load up the alternator & pull down the voltage to lower levels ,as shown on tests.
 
trev said:
the lamp current is used for initial exitation of rotor winding,

The spelling lessons are on another thread, but that would be excitation!

Greg
 
spelling

my sincerest apolgies to the bored guy with the dictionary, on my disgacefull spelling,yes there should be a c in excitation.
 
Thanks guys for the additional info. Useful site Frank. Definately one to keep for future reference.

Cheers to one an all

Kev
 


Back
Top Bottom