battery light

[gs1150]

the battery light has been flagged up on the rid of the 1150. use to be there once the bike started, blip the throttle and it would go out. the battery light came on this morning and the bike starts with difficulty after being switched off. when conducting a charge test with a voltmeter there isnt even 12v or 13v going into the battery.

the battery wasnt well when i put it on the charger......

what are the odds of an alternator packing up on a gs.........is the battery more likely to go 1st? she's done 70k on the clocks.

i've pulled fuses and relays out to see if that solves the problem but it doesnt.

anyone else had this b4?

 

[wessie]

have you checked the alternator belt?

 

[littleredrooster]

First and foremost, it is not a GS1150, it's an R1150GS, so both your nomencalture and you username are in question.

So - back to the query - if your voltmeter is only showing 12v-13v across the terminals with the engine running at a fast tickover, then it's a fair bet the the alternator is shagged.

Actually, it's a fair bet that the diode pack is shagged rather than the alternator, but the cost of replacing the diodes rather than the complete unit means that you will probably be able to source a new alternator for about the same as repairing the old one.

If you're anywhere near Warwickshire, my mate will rebuild it for you.

 

[Deleted account 250319001]

First and foremost, it is not a GS1150, it's an R1150GS, so both your nomencalture and you username are in question.

FFS

 

[sockpuppet]

First and foremost, it is not a GS1150, it's an R1150GS, so both your nomencalture and you username are in question.

Its a bike, got 2 wheels and goes vroom. Beyond that who gives a flying ****.

 

[Pauly S]

I think theres more to check you know..

First and foremost, it is not a GS1150, it's an R1150GS, so both your nomencalture and you username are in question.

So - back to the query - if your voltmeter is only showing 12v-13v across the terminals with the engine running at a fast tickover, then it's a fair bet the the alternator is shagged.

Actually, it's a fair bet that the diode pack is shagged rather than the alternator, but the cost of replacing the diodes rather than the complete unit means that you will probably be able to source a new alternator for about the same as repairing the old one.

If you're anywhere near Warwickshire, my mate will rebuild it for you.

First you need to verify that the connection between the positive output of the alternator and the positive of the battery is sound and not burnt etc, and doesnt have a high resistance.
Second you need to verify that the alternator is soundly earthed.
Also you need to check the belt is sound and tensioned corrrectly.
Another cause of alternator failure is brush wear.
Also make sure the battery has a good earth connection to the engine and frame of the bike.
Check all these before you spend your dough.

 

[Wrigsby1]

FFS

+1

 

[Greg Masters]

Glowing alternator light is usually a sign of a diode bridge failure.

Greg

 

[slimbo]

Glowing alternator light is usually a sign of a diode bridge failure.

Greg

even better if the light says on even with the ign off , that indicates a back feed through the now useless diode.

i would go for the alt belt first ensure its tensioned ok then check the output of the alternator/generator..

 

[gs1150]

well, i found the fault. peered through the alternator cover and saw loads of 'black string' turned the engine on and the black string didnt go anywhere. then took the alternator cover off and hey presto the alternator belt had let go big time........black strands of string and dust everywhere. bit peeved off with that cause it was MEANT to be a new alternator belt in there given she had a major service at 60,000 miles back in July. Im brassed off with the mechanic i gave her too.

looking at the remains of the alternator belt it was cracked all over the place and would have been in the same state in july. there's no way a new alternator belt cracks so quickly between july and now.

i aint happy. a problem to get fixed before a funeral on this wednesday from which i get back on saturday night to then have to get a ferry on sunday morning back over again.

pressed for time is an understatement!

 

[wessie]

{polishes coconut}

just be grateful it didn't wrap around the drive pulley and wear a big hole in the plastic cover

your "mechanic" possibly changed the belt but didn't get the tension correct. Most likely it was skipped.

 

[davegs]

Belt

Before you lamblast your mechanic remeber that the belt should be changed at 36,000 miles, and again at 72,000 miles so he may have looked and was ok
as it was a 60,000 service. My mate's 1100 had 86,000 on his belt! and it looked like new when it came off.

 

[Steptoe]

Reading through the replies it seems the old adage of KISS is no longer.


I think it's even in the handbook " if the alternator warning/charge light fails to extinguish check the condition of the alternator belt"

 

[robc]

...and it needs to be replaced every 30,000 miles these days. Or is 24,000? I can't remember anymore.

I took a brand new 1200RT for a test ride. About 200 miles on the clock. Alternator belt went. Rattled and smoked all the way back to the dealer. Bought an old 1150 RT instead

Regards

Rob C

 

[kwallace21]

The "GS1150" thing isn't as bad as 1150 "Adventurer". Now that really boils my piss!!!!!!

 

[roddy]

Reading through the replies it seems the old adage of KISS is no longer.......................

Ach where the fun in that, I'd have had the bike in a million bikes to find a blown bulb

 

[steve case]

It may not be much help but if it does

When I check any charging circuit I measure it with the bike cold (1st thing in the morning) and if the battery voltage is 10V or less its probably bolloxed, more so for gel batteries as they won't normally recharge, you may get some life into a lead acid.

if the Voltage is 10.5 to 11.5V then you either need to ride it more or put it on a charger.

around 12V is perfect.

Start the bike and you should see 13.5 to 14.5v which means the alternator is charging. If the voltage is much higher then the regulator is not working - failed to short circuit. If the voltage stays at 12V then the alternator is not charging - regulator, brushes etc.

I then change the meter to Vac and see if I have an ac value, you may have a mV ac reading but this is not a problem but if you have a large ac reading the rectifier is not working.

I'm not sure but I think the regulator and rectifier are on the back of the alternator so any failure means alternator replacement or renovation. Obviously you'd have already checked earths, belts etc!!!!