Battery Needs Changing?

[denny]

Had a flick through previous threads re clock resetting, which mine does too. Checked all fuses which were fine. So I hooked up a voltmeter to see what was what...

Ignition off - 12.45v
On but not started - 11.8v
Turning over - 7.8v
Running - 14v


These readings (other than the running value) seem a little low to me? I've found the bike turns over sluggish first time, but is fine after a short ride...starting immediatly every time. I'm guessing this means the bike is charging properly but the battery isn't in it's prime?

I spoke to the dealer who confirmed that the previous owner changed the battery in October 2008. Like myself the prevıous owner used it as a second bike mainly using for long distance rides. The bike sits in the garage for a 3-4 days. Optimate says it's fine, but that's not to be trusted. Does all of the above mean the battery needs changing and/or something else?

Cheers
Denny

 

[wessie]

Sounds like new battery time as you have done enough checks to confirm this.

No point recommending suppliers as I see you are in Turkey. Hopefully you have sources outside the BMW dealer network.

 

[John Armstrong]

My 1100 is a little sluggish too on the very first start of the day, but no clock resetting still was sluggish with a new battery, which made me wonder about the starter motor

If your bike has ABS, is there any problems with it when you set off?

 

[denny]

Wessie, I called BMW & was quoted 480TL (£192) much to my horror!! I found another place that does original parts who quoted 330TL (£130), with a bit of a haggle & cash payment I should be able to knock it down to 30TL. Still expensive I know but all bike related parts are nearly twice that of the UK.

John, I don't think (hope not anyway) the starter moter is to blame as it starts immediately once she's warmed up. I did notice today that the ABS didn't kick in when I rode for about 100meters...not nice when you're going down a steep hill!!

Side note...Motorworks Hicap...done a search here but nothing came up...has anyone fitted one and are they worth it?

http://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?T=5&NU=15&M=30&Ct=IA&SbCt=BA_15_30_IA_15

 

[wessie]

Side note...Motorworks Hicap...done a search here but nothing came up...has anyone fitted one and are they worth it?

http://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?T=5&NU=15&M=30&Ct=IA&SbCt=BA_15_30_IA_15

Snake oil. £50 for a bit of copper wire is taking the micky.

Check for your self using a meter. Measure the voltage across the battery when you press the starter button, as you did when diagnosing your battery. Repeat this only measuring the voltage at the starter solenoid input, solenoid output and then the starter motor itself. If there is a significant voltage drop then you might want to do something about it.

 

[denny]

Lol I hadn't thought of it like that, that's a lot of beer money!

I'm away from home so don't have the manual to hand. Is the solenoid/starter moter test as straightforward as a battery test, ie without dismantling parts or needing a torque wrench? I'm not a wizard with a wrench but I'm quick to pick things up as I go along.

 

[AberdeenAngus]

Side note...Motorworks Hicap...done a search here but nothing came up...has anyone fitted one and are they worth it?

http://www.motorworks.co.uk/vlive/Shop/Parts.php?T=5&NU=15&M=30&Ct=IA&SbCt=BA_15_30_IA_15

OOOH Oxygen free copper. How wonderful.
What a load o' shite.
No they are not worth it.
Your standard leads are fine.

As are your voltages by the way.
You're probably right - your battery isn't in its prime but it looks ok for now.
Keep your eyes open for a deal and replace it then.
No rush.

 

[warmshed]

Easiest way to check any vol tdrop is to test on the meter voltage scale, between the battery +ve terminal and the starter motor, any voltage displayed is the voltdrop, the higher the voltage the greater the resistance in the circuit. Voltage should be measured whilst operating the starter. If you get a significant reading (1/2 volt or more) then test across ends of each cable and across the solenoid in turn till you find the guilty component.


Bit concerned by the claims by Motoworks. Any cable put in parallel to the existing will reduce the voltdrop. High resistance solenoid will still cause the same problem no matter how many cables and their make up.

 

[DollyRocket]

The battery voltage on load @ 7.8 V is low. This is either...

1) Battery capacity dropped (Sulphated plates or plate area decrease)
2) Higher load than normal (Heavier oil increasing starter load for rated battery capacity).


If it is 1, if the plates are not badly sulphated you can regenerate the battery by a number of load cycles, or take it out and put it on an optimate. If the plates are damaged or heavily sulphated then it would need a replacement

If it is option 2, check the wires, starter for any reasons for the load being high, perhaps corroded connections, water in the starter terminals, faulty starter, extra resistance in the engine to the starter.


It is likely to be 1, but check all the basics in 2 as it shouldn't cost you any money to see if there is anything not right.

 

[HarryMcGuinness]

Had a flick through previous threads re clock resetting, which mine does too. Checked all fuses which were fine. So I hooked up a voltmeter to see what was what...

Ignition off - 12.45v
On but not started - 11.8v
Turning over - 7.8v
Running - 14v


These readings (other than the running value) seem a little low to me? I've found the bike turns over sluggish first time, but is fine after a short ride...starting immediatly every time. I'm guessing this means the bike is charging properly but the battery isn't in it's prime?

I spoke to the dealer who confirmed that the previous owner changed the battery in October 2008. Like myself the prevıous owner used it as a second bike mainly using for long distance rides. The bike sits in the garage for a 3-4 days. Optimate says it's fine, but that's not to be trusted. Does all of the above mean the battery needs changing and/or something else?

Cheers
Denny

If the battery is not even 3 years old and looking at your measurements during start up it looks very like a duff starter motor.
There have been plenty of people which experienced problems like this and it wasn't the battery and the starter motor instead.
Loose stator magnets or short windings on runner due to lose grease lid of inner planetary gearbox causing these issues.
In most of the times the starter motor still spins, just slower and pulls up to 3 times the electrical current as it should do.
This is just too much for the small m/c battery and the voltage level just drops down to this low level. Side effect is also that the voltage level is so low that the ignition does not work properly anymore and the bike than needs even longer until it fires up.

To diagnose your problem I would advise that you measure the start up current on the +supply to the starter with a clamp amp meter. A value between 85 and 95 amps should be usual if the starter works correctly.

Check out this good post for more details...
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=207984&styleid=4


Good luck!

 

[STUBBS]

got my last battery from ebay delivered from germany with in 2 days of ordering

 

[Pauly S]

cheap batteries here

have a look here, excellent service..