Battery Removal Challenge

Boxerboy55

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I’ve often blown my trumpet about the longevity of my original battery.

But - now I want to remove it to chase my dicky starting gremlin, looking to remove the starter for a look see.

I’m failing to spring the side panel off the battery box. See X.

RealOEM clearly shows the side panel is a separate part, the the bottom under tag is not wanting to move to let the side panel lift the 2 pegs out of their sockets.

Something was about to IMG_5584.jpegIMG_8231.jpegsnap.

Any suggestions beyond a 🔨
 
THANK YOU.

You win a watch. "Knowledge Is Power".

The hidden trick is in the downward facing peg on the side panel. The RealOEM diagram doesn't show the peg.
The whole battery has to be lifted.
Not just sliding the side off.
The wee bastid!

The application of (careful) brute force yanked the battery upwards and finally released the side panel.

Never seen daylight for almost 11 years (June).

Work can now progress investigating my non-starting issue.

And I may refit the battery with a piece of plastic parcel banding (arrived yesterday) around it for hauling out next time.

ps - the Aussie is talking bollox about battery chargers, saying in situ charging can only be done with a BMW DIN charger. Total shiite.
My bike has lived happily on original battery using a directly connect Optimate all it's life.

Batt Panel.jpg
 
Looks similar to the battery box I had on my 1200lc GS which I removed in the same way to attach my hexezecan. After that fuckwittery on the next one I used the very difficult to find positive terminal behind the red post, top right of your photo :blast

I'm with you on the optimate connection, had 4 boxer LCs on my optimate 4 now and even.though it canbus compatible I've used the supplied fused SAE lead without any problems, I chose that over the canbus option on the "keep it simple stupid" rationale
 


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