Battery

[SIB8292]

Bought my 2013 1200 GSA last summer, privately. I've never felt the motor spins quickly when starting, but it does start, and when Brian at BGM gave it a good going over last October he didn't comment on this. A combination of winter, health issue and lockdown has meant it hasn't been out much till this week, when I had a 2 hour ride. I noticed again what seems to me a sluggish turnover both from cold and when hot. Voltage after my ride measured at 12.9 at the terminals. It's now Thursday with no use since and its 12.7 .

Now its either that "they all do that, sir" or my feeling that the battery is losing cranking power is correct

Any thoughts anybody?

 

[Santa-2512]

Bought my 2013 1200 GSA last summer, privately. I've never felt the motor spins quickly when starting, but it does start, and when Brian at BGM gave it a good going over last October he didn't comment on this. A combination of winter, health issue and lockdown has meant it hasn't been out much till this week, when I had a 2 hour ride. I noticed again what seems to me a sluggish turnover both from cold and when hot. Voltage after my ride measured at 12.9 at the terminals. It's now Thursday with no use since and its 12.7 .

Now its either that "they all do that, sir" or my feeling that the battery is losing cranking power is correct

Any thoughts anybody?

How old is the battery ?

What condition are the body / battery earths in

The battery is the almost cheaper one to change than the starter


Hex head or LC replacements mottobat or Oddysey -£60 - £100

where in the SE are you ?

 

[Mistacat]

Bear in mind that you are turning over a 1200cc high compression engine that is not fitted with any form of decompression. Using a battery that is less than half the capacity of the one used on the low compression R80RT.
I have yet to hear a 1200 spin over with ease.

 

[SIB8292]

Bear in mind that you are turning over a 1200cc high compression engine that is not fitted with any form of decompression. Using a battery that is less than half the capacity of the one used on the low compression R80RT.
I have yet to hear a 1200 spin over with ease.

They all do that is the answer then?

 

[SIB8292]

Don't know age of battery. I guess a 7 yo bike would have had one at least. Physically good condition terminals tight etc

I do have another battery which is out of my Blackbird, currently on SORN, and which I think without having yet checked is same spec, so could try swapping over I suppose. IF I'm not just being overly sensitive.

Am in East Sussex, Heathfield.

 

[Popell]

Thread hijack alert!

Looking at bats for my hexhead and saw the standard yellow motobats which recommended for the hex had seem to be 12Ah versions but there was a 16Ah same size I think also recommended. However this was a black one not a yellow one.

Anyone know the difference? Is it likely to be genuine or a shonker?(eBay so anythings possible)
Had a JMT on last bike which seemed to be pretty good if it was anything other than freezing weather.

 

[Mistacat]

Thread hijack alert!

Looking at bats for my hexhead and saw the standard yellow motobats which recommended for the hex had seem to be 12Ah versions but there was a 16Ah same size I think also recommended. However this was a black one not a yellow one.

Anyone know the difference? Is it likely to be genuine or a shonker?(eBay so anythings possible)
Had a JMT on last bike which seemed to be pretty good if it was anything other than freezing weather.

The Battery I think you are referring to is the Motobatt MBYZ16HD Listed as 16.5 AH The yellow version does not have the HD on the end, I am led to believe that the HD is the black version for "Harley Davidson". Apologies for using obscene words on the forum.
I have been using these on my last 2 bikes.

 

[Popell]

Their 12volts should be as good as anyone's I guess!
Thanks for the info

 

[landmarkjohn]

Sounds the same as my 2008.

 

[RoyF]

Same here, have had my 2013 GSA from new. From day 1 it's always turned over a bit sluggish but always started.

After 6 years I treated it to a new battery, Motobatt MBYZ16HD (As above I'm led to believe HD stands for 'Harley Davidson', only difference is the coliour as a large part of the battery is apparently on show on the Harley ??).

The Motobatt is the same physical size as the original BMW battery plus its 1" or so spacer fitted on the bottom so take that out as well, its a 16Ah battery against a 11.2Ah if I remember. Slight improvement turning over, but not that you would really notice, and nothing like a multicylinder bike of course. Personally I have no regrets with the Motobatt....

 

[del1150]

My TC is 2012 with 39,500 miles and is still on its original battery (I've had it the whole time). It has always turned over a little sluggish but never been a problem. It's has been on an Optimate all year round from new and I don't see any reason to change anything until there is a noticeable change or it fails to start

 

[davegs]

The Battery I think you are referring to is the Motobatt MBYZ16HD Listed as 16.5 AH The yellow version does not have the HD on the end, I am led to believe that the HD is the black version for "Harley Davidson". Apologies for using obscene words on the forum.
I have been using these on my last 2 bikes.

I should hope so, do it again and you will have wash out your mouth with soapy water!!;

 

[Mistacat]

I should hope so, do it again and you will have wash out your mouth with soapy water!!;

Please accept my humble apologies.
Although regarding the aforementioned they have one claim to fame, "Having the most efficient method of converting fuel to noise without the side effect of horsepower"

 

[Yugsy1]

Stater motor

Bought my 2013 1200 GSA last summer, privately. I've never felt the motor spins quickly when starting, but it does start, and when Brian at BGM gave it a good going over last October he didn't comment on this. A combination of winter, health issue and lockdown has meant it hasn't been out much till this week, when I had a 2 hour ride. I noticed again what seems to me a sluggish turnover both from cold and when hot. Voltage after my ride measured at 12.9 at the terminals. It's now Thursday with no use since and its 12.7 .

Now its either that "they all do that, sir" or my feeling that the battery is losing cranking power is correct

Any thoughts anybody?

Hi
I have had same problems with a ‘13 plate.
Went through new battery
Modification to frame to take a larger cased battery to almost double the cranking Amps.
Lion battery now fitted.
None of these cured the “sluggish” crank-it used to sound as though t was about to lock up then would crank over.
All voltages ok.
All batteries tested ok on a midtronics battery tester.
All volt drop checks across connections ok.
Finally bit the bullet and changed the brush pack in the starter. £13.00 Ebay.
Polished the starter commutator even though it looked fine to me (40yrs a mechanic).
THIS CURED THE FAULT
I now have a spare brush set in my stock ready.
Good luck
Tim

 

[botus]

once I topped up the 5 year old AGM odyssey it spins over with vigor again as if new. BMW batteries are just shocking and designed to die overnight - they tend to do 6 years then just stop.
It seems to be the modern world, my KTM 1290 at 2 years 1 month had a dead battery and had only done 6k miles...

 

[SIB8292]

Thanks all

I shall try changing brushes in the starter motor as suggested

I will probably also try changing the power and earth leads to all copper. I read that the OEM terminals are brass and that brass has only 25-30% of the conductivity of copper.

I will try one "cure" at a time to see which fix works best and will report back in due course!

 

[Yugsy1]

I did everything you are trying until finally working on the brush pack and com in the motor
Interested to see how you get on

 

[SIB8292]

Yesterday I made a start (on the starter....)

First hurdle is that I haven't got the right size Torx socket to remove the starter from the bike so that will have to wait for another day

Second hurdle is that I can't find any markings to indicate the manufacturer and model number of the starter. I assume it's Bosch but really need that info to be able to order replacement brushes

Third hurdle is that there don't seem to be many UK sources of what might be compatible brushes - Yugsy1 can you possibly point me to your supplier?

But - I did give the terminals and connectors a good clean up because they didn't look wonderful. It might be imagination but I felt the engine turned over more briskly afterwards, real test will be when the engine is hot.

The starter motor terminals are in quite an exposed location so must be prone to some corrosion. I wasn't too impressed that the cable is slightly exposed where it enters the cable ring connector and over the years I would expect corrosion to creep up the cable from that weak point.

 

[Santa-2512]

When i had my battery starter issue

Cold start OK

First hot start ... touch and go
2nd hot start - no way



I removed, stripped and cleaned the starter, and refitted.

no better.

I changed the battery & removed re stripped re cleaned and refitted the starter

A little better

I had the starter checked by a local reman company - all good was the reply (wanker) turned out it wasn't

No better

I ran a double earth & power set up direct from the battery to the starter

A little better

After an afternoons diagnosis with a very helpful tosser & a multi meter the diagnosis was the starter & or solenoid was fucked


OE replacement is a stupid price

An Arrowhead starter is about £168-180

I got a re manufactured Valeo unit from a place in the midlands for about £142 inc delivery ( and no CC fee either)

Added a Motobatt battery

Fixed


2 years later i sold the bike still going strong

You will prolly need a long extension & a short wobble extension to remove the torx starter bolts, and removing and refitting is an lesson in dexterity

 

[SIB8292]

Thanks Santa
I could see the removal and refit would be awkward, hopefully I can avoid that till winter when bike is off the road and then can have starter overhauled at least