Bearing "race" puller, final drive bevel

[trinituner]

Good morning,

Just doing a final driver rebuild and looking for options re removing the bearing race within the bevel box (I believe correct term) is it best to modify a standard bearing puller by grinding off enough material to get to fit or is there a best way that does not cost a fortune..

If you do have a link to a blind bearing puller that is sold at reasonable cost please let me know..

 

[fizzer]

when i did mine ,i used a type of slide hammer type bearing race puller ,worked fine,dont forget the right way up for the thrust washer when you put it back together

 

[Hay Ewe]

so you have the large bearing and it is mounted on to the big crown gear?

If yes, this is what I did.
Clean it up, degrease it etc
put it in the freezer over night, give it a good 9 hours.

In the morning, I was able to use my tire levers to ease the bearing up and off.
Reason is that the bearing is harder material and whilst it will contract when it gets cold, the gear, whilst hard, is different material and will contract and be a bit smaller.

It worked for me in a hotel room just fine.

For re-install, clean it all up.
Put the crown gear back in the freezer over night.
In the morning, put the bearing in the oven on 70oC or so for about 30mins
then I coated the machined surface with oil (it got thick really quick) and then slid the bearing over the top

Easy as

 

[Magnon]

Heat up the casing (hot plate, hot air gun and/or both) and smack it down right hard on gasket face onto wooden block and with a bit of luck taper bearing outer race will come out eventually Welders gauntlets required

 

[Hay Ewe]

i miss read and didn't fully understand.
My reply earlier is unlikly helpful

 

[Canuck]

I called round to my local industrial area and found a gear box transmission rebuilder... asked them how much to remove the big bearing and the said to wait and two minutes later returned the unit to me with the big bearing removed. Free of charge so I left a fiver for a pint. It was much easier than fading about.

 

[GS Addict]

I use tire levers to remove

To install
Chill the crown gear in the freezer
Warm the bearing to 200f
Drop the bearing squarely on
It's that simple

 

[trinituner]

Sorry if I was not clear with what I need??..

All bearings where removed without issues, The one bit I have not looked at yet is the actual bearing race that the smaller taper bearing sits in.. The taper bearing itself comes with a race that is pressed into the case on the right hand side (if looking from rear..

https://www.ascycles.com/2/MicroLis...me=33 Rear axle, rear-wheel drive, suspension

If you look at the fiche it is number 5, it does not show it clearly but that bearing is a taper and has a removable race that sits in the case. It is the race that I need to remove.. Getting a new one in should be fine as I have a tapered race press but removal could be interesting hence I was seeing if there is a cheap tool or easy way to remove it...

 

[Magnon]

Sorry if I was not clear with what I need??..

All bearings where removed without issues, The one bit I have not looked at yet is the actual bearing race that the smaller taper bearing sits in.. The taper bearing itself comes with a race that is pressed into the case on the right hand side (if looking from rear..

https://www.ascycles.com/2/MicroLis...me=33 Rear axle, rear-wheel drive, suspension

If you look at the fiche it is number 5, it does not show it clearly but that bearing is a taper and has a removable race that sits in the case. It is the race that I need to remove.. Getting a new one in should be fine as I have a tapered race press but removal could be interesting hence I was seeing if there is a cheap tool or easy way to remove it...

Sorry, I wasnt joking!

Heat up the casing (hot plate, hot air gun and/or both) and smack it down right hard on gasket face onto wooden block and with a bit of luck taper bearing outer race will come out eventually Welders gauntlets required Worked just fine on my R1100GS

 

[Neil W]

Took mine out by running a bead of weld around the inner race and it dropped out

 

[GS Addict]

I heat the case and use a slide hammer with a hook end attachment.

 

[trinituner]

Sorry, I wasnt joking!

Heat up the casing (hot plate, hot air gun and/or both) and smack it down right hard on gasket face onto wooden block and with a bit of luck taper bearing outer race will come out eventually Welders gauntlets required Worked just fine on my R1100GS

Sorry for my level of tossbaggery I full understand now, just read a quick thread on ADV where it also states that the race "should" drop out after heating the case.. I will give this a try and report back later..

 

[trinituner]

Sorry, I wasnt joking!

Heat up the casing (hot plate, hot air gun and/or both) and smack it down right hard on gasket face onto wooden block and with a bit of luck taper bearing outer race will come out eventually Welders gauntlets required Worked just fine on my R1100GS

I attempted this yesterday and even with heating the case to within a inch of its of life no luck and I did give it a bloody good whack more than once, I have everything else all sorted and the other bearings are mounted and ready to go. I think I will need to invest in a slide hammer which is a bit of a pain as they do not seem to be the cheapest tool out there..

Also got 2 pairs of "Nushings" coming from the guy on ADV rider so these will replace the pivot bearings in the swing arm..
http://advrider.com/index.php?threa...ushing-replacements-nylager-nushings.1149024/

 

[fizzer]

I attempted this yesterday and even with heating the case to within a inch of its of life no luck and I did give it a bloody good whack more than once, I have everything else all sorted and the other bearings are mounted and ready to go. I think I will need to invest in a slide hammer which is a bit of a pain as they do not seem to be the cheapest tool out there..

Also got 2 pairs of "Nushings" coming from the guy on ADV rider so these will replace the pivot bearings in the swing arm..
http://advrider.com/index.php?threa...ushing-replacements-nylager-nushings.1149024/

yeh i have looked at those too on adv rider ,they look a great idea .

 

[moonhead911]

I attempted this yesterday and even with heating the case to within a inch of its of life no luck and I did give it a bloody good whack more than once, I have everything else all sorted and the other bearings are mounted and ready to go. I think I will need to invest in a slide hammer which is a bit of a pain as they do not seem to be the cheapest tool out there..

Also got 2 pairs of "Nushings" coming from the guy on ADV rider so these will replace the pivot bearings in the swing arm..
http://advrider.com/index.php?threa...ushing-replacements-nylager-nushings.1149024/

2 sets ? so do you have 2 bikes to fit them two

 

[mouthfulloflake]

2 sets ? so do you have 2 bikes to fit them two

Orders of 2 sets or more, nets free shipping until Jan 1 2017



Triniriderzs, is it common for the small pinion bearing to go bad on the final drive?
Ive read quite a few R&R stories, and it seems it is usually only the Big bearing

Or maybe you are just being thorough?

 

[moonhead911]

I attempted this yesterday and even with heating the case to within a inch of its of life no luck and I did give it a bloody good whack more than once, I have everything else all sorted and the other bearings are mounted and ready to go. I think I will need to invest in a slide hammer which is a bit of a pain as they do not seem to be the cheapest tool out there..

Also got 2 pairs of "Nushings" coming from the guy on ADV rider so these will replace the pivot bearings in the swing arm..
http://advrider.com/index.php?threa...ushing-replacements-nylager-nushings.1149024/

have they come yet might order afew my self ?

 

[trinituner]

have they come yet might order afew my self ?

Yep they arrived about 7 days after the order was placed, very very happy with the product and would recommend..

Regards

 

[trinituner]

2 sets ? so do you have 2 bikes to fit them two

I am currently trying my very best to talk myself out of a R1100S prep, I am a firm BM fan tbh so I see a few more in the stable at some point..

Regards

 

[trinituner]

Orders of 2 sets or more, nets free shipping until Jan 1 2017



Triniriderzs, is it common for the small pinion bearing to go bad on the final drive?
Ive read quite a few R&R stories, and it seems it is usually only the Big bearing

Or maybe you are just being thorough?

I would say when a final drive goes bad it is "normally" the large bearing but TBH the large bearing seemed to be in very good shape as did the seal, there was no oil leak either. I had a good amount of movement from the rear wheel both with the brake on and off and at the 12/6 and 3/9 position. The Swing arm Pivot bearing did seem to be ok as well.. So I put this down to a bad taper bearing or worn race..

I had just sold some old NC30 fairings that had been taking up far to much space and got way more £££ than expected so I thought whilst I have the lot taken apart then lets do the job properly.

The Nushings where a no brainer when you see how much the pivot bearings are selling for now, the tolerances are really good and they are easy to fit.

All in if I had the tools laid out it is honestly a fairly easy job that is a couple of hours at most (Now I have done one) Not including freezing/heating, the only ball ache I came up against was the race removal and I opted for a local gearbox shop to remove that for basically peanuts otherwise a £60 slide hammer would do the trick. Even using cheap ebay bearing pullers and just grinding down the thickness to fit under the large main bearing was only a minor annoyance.

I re fitted and torqued the Nushing as per instructions and all seems well.

The other reason for doing a more in depth replacement of parts is I have a plan to ride this bike well into Asia (soonish) I hope and I would rather tackle this job in a warm garage than at the side of a very warm Bangkok freeway ...

Regards