hi folks can you advise me please ,other than the main dealer and motorworks upgrade kit is there any other place that would supply the needle rollers in my beval box ,it would just be the bearings i would need as the pins look fine .
bevel box to swingarm bearings
- Thread starter fizzer
- Start date
BMW Part Only
These bearings are manufactured for BMW as an "exclusive part/design" (by FAG I think?) - so there is NO source for these parts - apart from BMW themselves, or one of the companies who will be sourcing their parts through the BMW network in UK or in Europe - ie. Motorworks, Motobins, Sherlocks etc - their still suppling the genuine BMW part - as there's no other source!!!
Your local bearing supplier will be able to look up the bearing number on the manufacturer's site - but it will say it can't be supplied to them - only to the "owner" of the design - BMW.
Cheers...................Grizzly
These bearings are manufactured for BMW as an "exclusive part/design" (by FAG I think?) - so there is NO source for these parts - apart from BMW themselves, or one of the companies who will be sourcing their parts through the BMW network in UK or in Europe - ie. Motorworks, Motobins, Sherlocks etc - their still suppling the genuine BMW part - as there's no other source!!!
Your local bearing supplier will be able to look up the bearing number on the manufacturer's site - but it will say it can't be supplied to them - only to the "owner" of the design - BMW.
Cheers...................Grizzly
beemer pimp
Registered user
No , they specifically made for bmw there is seal on outer side , at one stage I found bearing in China but without seal , so no use
thankyou very much guys,that was the info i needed,so i will order the upgrade kit ,from the likes of motorworks ,pointless really going to the dealers when the upgrade kit is better and cheaper .
Upgrade?
Hi Fizzer
Remenber the Motorworks "upgrade" Kit is replacing FAG taper needle bearings with plain taper bronze bushes. I have no experience of them and I think some people have found them a good alternative to standard - do a search on here?
But be aware the word "upgrade" was chosen by Motorworks - and it may or may not be true!
If I was replacing mine again, I would still fit the original needle bearings - I think if their well greased when fitted, not overly pre-loaded and the pins are NOT Loctited - so they can easily be re-lubed or adjusted later as required they give good service.
That's just my view - I'm sure others may not agree
Cheers.....................Grizzly
Hi Fizzer
Remenber the Motorworks "upgrade" Kit is replacing FAG taper needle bearings with plain taper bronze bushes. I have no experience of them and I think some people have found them a good alternative to standard - do a search on here?
But be aware the word "upgrade" was chosen by Motorworks - and it may or may not be true!
If I was replacing mine again, I would still fit the original needle bearings - I think if their well greased when fitted, not overly pre-loaded and the pins are NOT Loctited - so they can easily be re-lubed or adjusted later as required they give good service.
That's just my view - I'm sure others may not agree
Cheers.....................Grizzly
Just fitted some of the 'upgrade' bushes from MW. Done shy of 4k miles in the last 3wks with them so too soon to tell but for the price, I'd be happy to replace them every 30k miles! It would work out the same or less than the needle rollers!
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thanks very much for the imput guys very helpful as ever
ahebron
Registered user
If fitting the upgrade whatever you do don't put a grease gun on and and jam it full of grease till you can barely operate the grease gun.
It gets expensive, damhik
Adrian
It gets expensive, damhik
Adrian
My bike is still on its original paralever bearings after 14 years and 75k miles .. 
Throughly cleaned and greased once a year and kept correctly adjusted inbetween
Throughly cleaned and greased once a year and kept correctly adjusted inbetween
My bike is still on its original paralever bearings after 14 years and 75k miles ..
Fair point. I can see that if they were looked after the bearings would/should last a good time. But with a secondhand bike is hard to know how well it was maintained, until something fails or you get to it before it does!
Adrian, what happened exactly?! I'm cutouts as I was just about to stuff a loaf of grease into mine!
My bike is still on its original paralever bearings after 14 years and 75k miles ..
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LOL. Yes, I'm going to stuff a whole loaf in there, if it'll get in 
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ahebron,well what can i say,you are correct ,one of mine exploded ,motorworks have sent a replacement ,but yes its down to using a big grease gun,it breaks the back off.
is no one here using the nylon bushes advertised on advrider? They are way cheaper replacement and I know the guy making them is still looking for 'test subjects' http://www.ukgser.com/forums/images/smilies/naughty.gif
linky not working for me mate
Interesting. Nylon? I can't imagine that working? Now I've had it all apart I have a better appreciation of the weights/forces involved. Much more that a little flexing in those bearings must surely affect the handling?
I'll never say never! So hurry up with the link
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Johny w
Registered user
Upgrade?
Hi Fizzer
Remenber the Motorworks "upgrade" Kit is replacing FAG taper needle bearings with plain taper bronze bushes. I have no experience of them and I think some people have found them a good alternative to standard - do a search on here?
But be aware the word "upgrade" was chosen by Motorworks - and it may or may not be true!
If I was replacing mine again, I would still fit the original needle bearings - I think if their well greased when fitted, not overly pre-loaded and the pins are NOT Loctited - so they can easily be re-lubed or adjusted later as required they give good service.
That's just my view - I'm sure others may not agree
Cheers.....................Grizzly
Johny w
Registered user
I've just bought the motorworks kit, I really can't see a good reason to assemble these with thread locker when they're torqued up to 160nm!!
I can understand using it on the inner pin so as to lock it before torquing up the large nut. But if a large socket with cutout for an allen key is used, then surely there is no need for the threadlock.
I can understand using it on the inner pin so as to lock it before torquing up the large nut. But if a large socket with cutout for an allen key is used, then surely there is no need for the threadlock.
I don’t use thread locker, but I do place a witness mark on the nut and casing so any movement is clearly visible. So far I’ve never had any movement.
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