Bike not starting

agent2494

agent2494

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Help needed

Bike firing but not starting had RAC out said it was starter motor so changed that bike still not starting. So then was told try new battery guess what still not starting even with new battery the dash board goes out????? But starter motor gets very hot???
Just to say that the bike had new clutch fitted due to oil seals leaking and the bike has struggled to start ever since then.

Any ideas
Cheers


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The starter motor turns but it seams not enough power as the dash board goes blank


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Try replacing main power cable, from battery to starter, with a new one and fit an additional earthing lead, don't cost that much to do.

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Bad earth would have been my guess too - earth reconnected when the gearbox was put back on after the clutch change?
 
blimey if you dont know the difference between firing and turning step away from the bike:D

as said could be poor power supply and or earth or wiring loom chafing since clutch replacement
 
Battery?

If it was weak, and clutch slipping it may have turned the bike over nicely,

With a super grippy clutch, the battery may not be up to it?

Mart
 
Autogs that why I am asking for help/ideas as I am not mechanically mind but can build bridges and hi-rise offices


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If the clutch has been changed the bike will have been split in half along with lots of loom disconnects in the middle.
Check side stand connector is seated correctly (although - question to others - does it turn over at all if side stand is down).
Just an idea...
 
How fast does the starter turn. If its reasonably quick and doesn't sound like its struggling its not going to be anything on the battery / starter / cables side of things. If its slow and you have replaced the starter and the battery you need to try running a a couple of cables direct to the starter from the battery: One from +ve terminal to the post on the starter that the loom's cable bolts to, the other from the -ve terminal to one of the starter motor mounting bolts. Don't worry about keeping it neat, just try it for now. Jump leads will do as a trial as long as you can keep the +ve one isolated from the frame and engine. If the cables solve it then either wire them up neatly and leave in place or get the tank off and clean/roughen the main earth and give the +ve connection to the starter a good polish and rough up

If the starter is spinning like a good 'un but it won't fire then it could be something is disconnected or not connected properly that is part of the interlock to prevent the bike starting in gear: clutch switch, side stand switch, and neutral switch. If the bike is in gear then the clutch has to be pulled in and the side stand up, although I don't think it even spins the starter motor if the stand is down or the clutch not pulled in. Also worth checking the kill switch is ok.

If all that seems to check out then its beyond me but I would be looking at every single electrical connector I can find, especially those linked to splitting the subframe for the clutch change, and including the coils to the plugs.

Good luck with it.
 
Last edited:
I used battery leads from halfords to sort a few issues...

Run a battery lead from the battery + to the alternator, another from alternator to the starter, another from the starter back to the battery, forms a triangle and if one fails it won't matter.

Run a final lead from the battery - to the earth point on the top of the engine... give the earth point a damn good clean up..

It's never started better in all of its 90,000 miles...

Cheap to do and only took about an hour... It can't hurt.

Roger.
 
I'm no expert but you would have to look at the fuel pump controler which can be easily bypassed to see if that's the problem. JJH
 
G5RJO said:
I used battery leads from halfords to sort a few issues...

Run a battery lead from the battery + to the alternator, another from alternator to the starter, another from the starter back to the battery, forms a triangle and if one fails it won't matter.

Run a final lead from the battery - to the earth point on the top of the engine... give the earth point a damn good clean up..

It's never started better in all of its 90,000 miles...

Cheap to do and only took about an hour... It can't hurt.

Roger.
Click to expand...

Interesting.

My previous bike was a Yamaha Diversion 900 (bear with me). The headlight was always crap so many people fitted halogen spots under the fairing to help main beam. I measured the voltage at the bulb with engine running and light on. It was 1.5 volts down on the battery -10%. Relays (on dip and main beams) with power wires direct to the battery gave a much better headlight. BMW seem to have even thinner wires to the headlight so its no wonder the halogens give such rubbish output. The LEDs are much more tolerant to low voltage and don't pull as much power so should always work as designers intended.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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