Bilco's Alaska Adventure

After another cracking days ride up the Alcan we arrived our cracking motel in Haines. It's fairly new and just in the right place. Great view to wake up to and just think how much a view like that would cost anywhere else?

A young guy on a KLR wandered over as he had a puncture and in true tosser style, he was duly lent a tube by Col and Mad Dog Murdoch did teh honours for him. Packer and a dude who just pulled up duly gave out instructions when required.

This led to a spate of tyre pressure checks and Garfield looks a little annoyed that his rear pressure was 20psi. He thought it was a little bouncy.....:D
 

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The main event

We rocked into Fairbanks and the cheap and clean University of Fairbanks which at $25 per night is brilliant value and a great place to stay. After a day of sorting things out, Peter decided he didn't want to ride the road and poor old Boatman really hurt his back so no way could he ride onHaul Road. He was absolutely gutted.......

Just as a pre cursor to the dalton, it is 500 miles each way and has just about every weather condition you can imagine as well as trucks doing 70mph, mosquito's the size of bee's, roadworks thick slippery mud, deep gravel, moose, bears and all sorts of other stuff. On a good day, it's a great challenging ride but on a bad day, it's very very difficult as well as downright dangerous!! It's not for the faint hearted.........

Anyway, we left FB and hit the road. The 1st 90 miles or so are lovely flowing tarmac to get the K60's bedded in nicely and then you hit the dirt. It was raining so the 1st 25 miles or so was pretty challenging. The road changes from this mud to tarmac then gravel all in quick time so you have to be very alert at all times.
 

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The first stop on the Dalton after fuelling at the Yukon crossing is the Hot Spot Truck stop and it's really quirky. The milk shakes and burgers are amongst the best anywhere but the facilities are basic to say the least. The Urinal was the strangest I've ever seen that's for sure.

met a couple of other UK GS riders so you can't go anywhere without seing a bloody brit on his bike:thumb

The pipeline workers use the place and their means of transport is chopper which seems very sensible given the road conditions most of the time.
 

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As we pulled out of teh Hot Spot, the heavens opened and for the next 100 miles it was a deluge so no pics. The roads were difficult as they change so quickly and we duly pulled into Coldfoot camp for fuel and food very wet and tired. Still, saw a Buell which was adventurized and a proper Ice Road truck. Check out the wheelbase on the thing:eek: Those babies run at between 60 and 70 on the dirt and weigh 40 tonnes so it's best to keep out of the way although the drivers are pretty good.

After refuelling, it was 15 miles up the road to the welcome cabins of Boreal Lodge Wiseman otherwise known as Mosquito Central.
 

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We'd had a chat at the Boreal and I'd decided that if the weather hadn't relented by morning and it was still pishing down, I'd make a decision on whether we carried on or not. Luckily, the rain had stopped and it was good riding. However, I'd had to make the difficult decision not to let Col go all the way to Deadhorse. By his own admission he'd struggled the day before in the conditions and north of the pass it can be really bad. It was a tough but a correct call as I have to think about his safety as if there is an accident or something, you are a long long was from help. As the weather was good, Col rode with us to the Atigun which is a damned site further than many people get and Col did a sterling job getting that far. Most folk only get to the Arctic Circle or Coldfoot Camp. Whether or not Col will ever speak to me again is another matter though:augie

Lots of roadworks and the girls who work the stop signs are great company. This one had hit a moose with here car and it went over the top, got caught under the back and just about trashed the car. The moose didn't survive but thanks to no MOT's up here, what's left of the car is still going strong.

Anyway, I fell on my sword to ride with Col back to Fairbanks which was a small matter of 400 miles and the rest went on. I've been there before and will go again in a few weeks so no worries for me. Anyway, the 6 good men and true dissappeared into the gloom of the north slope of the Atigun.
 

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Me and Col headed back south with the small matter of 400 miles of dirt and dodgy roads but the weather gods were being kind and despite the long journey and Col's obvious dissapointment, the scenery all around stops you being bored:D
 

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Check out this 1971 F250 truck. It was bought by this guys Dad brand new and has been on pilot car duty on the road all it's life. The mileage is a staggering 1,038,000....! Kev reckoned it's had a few engines but is still going strong and he would never get rid of it:thumb
 

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So it was back to Fairbanks and time to wash off the bike at Adventure Cycle Works. This is a small place run b Dan and Shawn Armstrong and they prep bikes for the Dalton and do a brilliant job. They love GS's and reckon they give the least amount of trouble up here :D

There was a chap called Scott there who was a couple of months into his 12 month wander around North and South America. Reckon he will have a great time:thumb
 

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Dawson City

Wonder why Bilco hasn't posted about being in Dawson City yet? Couldn't be that he's still getting over last night's drinking could it?
 
Wonder why Bilco hasn't posted about being in Dawson City yet? Couldn't be that he's still getting over last night's drinking could it?

Spot on :beerjug: Canada Day, Yukon Gold, dancing girls and mad mikey murdoch are a brutal combination:augie
 
Ten Tossers in a gold rush town....

...what could possibly go wrong?

A number of us pitched up at Diamond Tooth Gerties after sampling the beer at the the workies bar.

More beer follows, of course and the dancing girls get on stage. What happened next?

Ken looks a bit nervous

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Mike doesn't

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Sorry about the quality, the light level was low and too far away for the flash.

More here http://www.flickr.com/photos/25883184@N06/sets/72157630307001126/with/7490956336/

The tongue twister on top of the beer meant that despite their best efforts neither one was going to win. The fellow that did win got to remove the girls garter, we were all astonished that he did't use his teeth. I'm sure that Mike or Ken would have been more entertaining winners!
 
A few random pictures on the way to Dawson. It looks like teh burger Packer is having is going to eat him rather than the other way around:eek:
 

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Top of the World Highway has to be in the top 5 GS roads on the planet. Fast tarmac, mud, gravel, good coffee stops and unbelievable views put it right up there. My camera played up half way so the good shots from the road didn't come out but I'm sure the guys will post some good ones:thumb

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A couple more and into Dawson City:
 

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A little interjection from me and some thoughts about the Dalton Highway (I'm a survivor :D)

We did the Dalton up in two stages which was just perfect because the weather was generally pretty poor. The trip down was in one lump, a little short of 500 miles.

I wanted to tell you about the Dalton though. This road challenges and pushes you more than any other road. There isn't a great deal of tarmac on it for starters. The road is mostly packed dirt and gravel and when the dirt is churned up and repacked each season or so there is a chemical mixed (some 'calcium whatchamacallit') which when wet becomes as slippy as ice especially for a bike. There are a couple of occasions when the bike slides around a bit but it's fine.

The other complexity riding the Dalton is the amount of roadworks. You often have to be escorted slowly through the roadworks which goes slow. The road area is a mess and you're going slow through deep churned mud, at one point I bottom the bike on a mud hole figuring I was going to take a bath. We stop and wait around 15 minutes twice for the escort van and this is the opportunity for the mosquito to swarm and feast by the billion, we don 'mozzie' nets over the helmet to save ourselves being lunch. The roadworking equipment is enormous and a couple of times I play chicken with them because I'm trying to switch lanes in the wet over big mounds of dirt!

When the road is clear and largely dry you can push on pretty quick. We run at 60 to 70 mph in many parts which are largely gravel or compact, dry mud. The bike squirms as you push on, but it's fun. One one section through a forest I push on at 70 mph on a narrow tyre track, oblivious to the thought that a moose or a bear could be waiting for me round a corner!

The other thing to consider on the Dalton, (which is a mixed blessing), is trucks. If it all goes wrong the truckers will help and transport your bike. But meantime on the road, they whirl past at tremendous speeds and nearly blow you off your bike. At the bottom of hills, we stop and let them run down first, you don't to share road space with someone that is free falling at high speed.

When you do find bits of tarmac, it is obviously falling to bits and the 3D puzzle on the ground is a life and bike ending opportunity.

The Dalton has a real unpredictability about it which is the weather. The run South from Deadhorse to the Atigun Pass is fine and we move at pace, just after the slippy Atigun Pass the rain starts and comes at a furious rate which makes the ride fun! Everything is wet and covered in a deep mud, in fact even my mud has mud on it. The other thing about the weather is, we were sat at the Hot Shots Cafe in the sun, enjoying a milkshake and 2 corners later we're in a monsoon. This is the real challenge of the Dalton, in great weather, it's a breeze, throw in the rain and you're up against it.

12 hours after setting off, we make the University in Fairbanks, everyone is hyper from the ride. For me, this is the best day and ride of my life, I worked hard and loved it. The Dalton is for me, the best road in the world and I survived it. Many don't.

I'm keeping a separate blog at www.nomadbiker.co.uk, just muscling in on Chris.....:pullface

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So Chris has got us stopped at Toad River tonight, accommodation is lovely inside, bit funky on the outside though....:augie

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There have also been random outbreaks of 'hysteria' amongst the more 'senior' members of the group, sun, too many trees, mosquito....who know's....:P

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Wow, that Dalton Highway sounds awesome.:beerjug:
 


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