BMW 1250 Technical Recall

No, not sure I'll bother. Just dropped the final drive to fit new tyre and pads, looked brand new and covered in grease. I still stand by what I say. Does it really matter if its rusted together?
 
Onahi said:
No, not sure I'll bother. Just dropped the final drive to fit new tyre and pads, looked brand new and covered in grease. I still stand by what I say. Does it really matter if its rusted together?
Click to expand...
No I suppose it doesn't matter if it is rusted together... after all that really badly rusted cardan shaft in the photo's hadn't exploded, but it still doesn't seem 'right' to my mechanically sympathetic brain that a carbon steel shaft could be rotating at speed in a bath of water. It brings a whole new meaning to the phrase 'water cooled boxer engine' I suppose.

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Mine has been in as part of the 12k service, and it’s not just about well greased or rust etc it is about whether the strength of the shaft has been compromised. They said mine looked all good but when they put the test equipment on it then it failed and had to have a new shaft
 
As you can see, as the swinging arm moves in an arc, the final drive has to pivot to maintain wheelbase.
The driveshaft is a constant length so it has to slide on the final drive input splines.
 
johnmarshall1965 said:
Mine has been in as part of the 12k service, and it’s not just about well greased or rust etc it is about whether the strength of the shaft has been compromised. They said mine looked all good but when they put the test equipment on it then it failed and had to have a new shaft
Click to expand...

What is it exactly that the test equipment is detecting?
Is it vibration, stiffness of rotation, or what?
 
Wierpig said:
As you can see, as the swinging arm moves in an arc, the final drive has to pivot to maintain wheelbase.
The driveshaft is a constant length so it has to slide on the final drive input splines.
Click to expand...

OK, so what happens when that doesn't happen (rusted together) , ? As many on here have witnessed (including me) ?
 
When my previous RT1200WC rusted its drive shaft, I could feel harshness in the suspension at low speeds and hear a clicking noise when pushing it round.
 
Wierpig said:
When my previous RT1200WC rusted its drive shaft, I could feel harshness in the suspension at low speeds and hear a clicking noise when pushing it round.
Click to expand...

So, your seized shaft, damaged ? Bearings? Suspension ? What did it damage ?

So there must be many bikes now riding around with those symptoms above? Mine was rusted solid, And it was silky smooth. I only found out it was seized when I asked the dealer to strip and grease it, Like many others on here. I guess, Either I (And many others) are very lucky, Or you were just unlucky.
 
If the shaft joint is seized the rear suspension feels harsh and uncomfortable, huge difference on my old bike after they stripped and actually greased it
 
Neil W said:
If the shaft joint is seized the rear suspension feels harsh and uncomfortable, huge difference on my old bike after they stripped and actually greased it
Click to expand...

Mine was seized. Felt nothing. And I do big miles. And didn't feel any different when I collected it ?
 
Wierpig said:
As you can see, as the swinging arm moves in an arc, the final drive has to pivot to maintain wheelbase.
The driveshaft is a constant length so it has to slide on the final drive input splines.
Click to expand...
I always thought the whole point of the paralever rear suspension didn't require the length of cardan shaft to change during suspension
e5d5b4172b3e181435b89626297e27a9.jpg


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It doesn't, This is just thing "they"nhave to state to give credit to "their" argument. This seizing is only a problem if the FD needs to be removed for any reason. New boot etc. Otherwise there is no issue at all. BMW have taken steps to ensure this stops happening for that small % of users.
Ride safe, Your Shaft isn't going to explode !
My 1150 completed 90K miles under my ownership for over 14 years. The shaft was never touched, but i can guarantee it was seized. :thumb2
 
2021 model R1250GS
Had mine done on 3rd October at Allan Jefferies (Baildon) as well as the normal service. When I got home (70 miles) the rear rubber gaiter had come out at the front. I thought they’d just not secured right so put it back myself. It was alright when I set off from AJ’s.
Next ride it came out again, clipped it back. After about five or six rides and it happening every time I thought rather than go through the hassle of booking it back in and travelling 70 miles when the weather is now a bit crap, I’d open it up a bit more so the gaiter could be refitted better. Wheel off, caliper off, sensor released and paralever bolt out allowed me to move it further without actually dropping all the way. I didn’t want my new final drive oil to pour out the sensor hole.
Nice new looking black shaft, they’d replaced it after the test, but there’s a one inch rotation direction scratch on the UJ that looks like it has made contact with the housing. I refitted it all making absolutely sure the gaiter was fitted correctly, fully secured all round.
Next ride it’s come adrift again so it’s booked in for 12th November. I think somehow the UJ is pushing it out and coming into contact with the outer casing, though AJ’s say this isn’t likely. I do feel a clunk ever now and then over rough roads or speed bumps etc.
I’ve said to them not to just put the gaiter back and send me on my way because it’s been done several times.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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