BMW 650 stalling, what next?

paulh

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Hi, I have an '09 Xcountry and it's driving me nuts!!!

In short...

'Developed the cutting out habit at around 12k miles. 'Tried following advice on this forum and others.

Started with the simple non-invasive items, then a few others...
TPS resets, battery voltage, O2 sensor connector, injection cleaner, cleaned airbox interior, injector, idle actuator, 'joined' the battery leads, changed to iridium plugs (see Note below), but she's still misbehaving!

Very often she seems OK 'ish after some TLC but after a couple of short trips she's at it again!

Note: When changing the plugs I discovered that the wiring to the coils was reversed, swapping them over has resulted in a noticeable improvement in performance in Open Loop conditions (I'd advise everybody to check this), but not Closed Loop, especially at idle which often seems weak.

Next I'm going to try running only in Open Loop (by disconnecting the O2 sensor) to confirm that the issue is related to Closed Loop running only, then what? Any ideas?

Will any GS911 owner help me out with a fault code check please, I'm in the UK near Peterborough?

Cheers, Paul
 
Just a thought Paul, could it be related to the fuel breather system?
I think when I was looking through the parts fiche that you have a similar setup to the 658/800 arrangement of extended breather via a "floating ball" and the tip-over mechanical cut-off ?
Or is that just wishful thinking?
Brian
 
Oops. This is one to watch My 07 challenge was cutting out with throttle closed. Just cleared the throttle body injector and idle regulator. Running ok just now. But your story doesn't instll me with confidence. Finger crossed and good luck
 
Try swopping out the air intake sensor, it's the lead that runs into the bottom of the airbox by the throttle body. This did have a serious improvement on my bike. The other thing that is worth checking is the valve clearances. The intake valves don't have much clearance when in tolerance. So you only need a little bit of wear in the valve train to loose the clearance, and also a bit of compression.
 
did you re-learn the 'throttle' (Reset throttle positioning sensor) or the idle actuator after draining power from the bike?
############
key off
key on
throttle wide open
throttle full close
throttle wide open
throttle full close
key off
key on
start engine with no throttle
allow engine to find idle without touching throttle
once it settles into an idle, key off
########################

wait for the end of the pre check sequence, the temperature light shouldn't blink, the actuator is being positioned in this phase.
run till the fan comes on
run till the fan turn off, kill engine
(using a gs911 you can see that the engine is being adjusted by doing this.)

on other forums, the loose baffle in the exhaust is mentioned as a cause for stalling

Josey
 
Hi all, 'Been a while, so what's the latest. Considered your replys (ta) and checked a few more things on the bike as suggested but to no avail. So I disconnected the O2 sensor and she ran pretty well for a while then started to play up. I reconnected the O2 sensor and she ran pretty well for a while then started to play up. 'Seems to be a pattern here, each time I make a change, clean, adjust, replace, disconnect, reconnect , or reset she seems to respond for a while then reverts to her old tricks. Most recently cutting out when stopping to give way at 3 major roundabouts!

When she's good she's very very good, but when she's bad she's awful... so I decided to bite the bullet and buy a Power Commander. I'll let you know how we get on...
 
Check the wiring to the fuel pump multi connector under the seat. The wires chafe from the factory. Also have a good look in the multipin connector itself. The earth connector sometimes doesn´t seat properly and causes it to overheat. Look for burning/tracking.

The problem is almost certainly fuel delivery related - they´re pretty tolerant of everything else.

If the above checks out, take a look inside the tank and ensure the fuel filter isn´t blocked.

Good luck.
 
I had a problem once with Iridium plugs. The coil-packs meant I had to use the little screwed on end pieces which occasionally shook loose and caused a lack of contact. A little blob of solder stuck them on and fixed it.
I also had a problem with a frayed wire around the headstock. I forget what it was now but it kept cutting the bike out every time I turned left and moved the steering to full lock. I think it was tripping out the kill-switch but that's just off the top of my head. Luckily it was easy to find. Good luck yourself.
 
This is still an issue, if you'd like to see the latest please pick up the thread on Advrider, I just had to pick one forum as it gets a bit 'wordy'!
 


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