BMW dealer diagnostics

[denny]

Ok, I think we're making progress! Checked the resistance by unplugging one side & making contact with the connections...reading was approximatly 15.8 I noticed that it wouldn't take a reading when both sides were unplugged, sound right?

I then disconnected the lambda and the main fuse on the fuse panel and went for a ride. After a 30 minute mixed ride I got back home without the old girl stalling or spluttering once . However due to the shite weather & lack of decent lighting I wasnt able to pin it in 4th or 5th to see if it did the annoying cutting out I mentioned in post #10

So I'm guessing it's the lambda rather than the extra electronics I have fitted? Will I need to fit a new one or can I just keep riding like this?

 

[denny]

I checked online to see what a 'correct' reading would be for the lambda probe, seeing as mine appears to be faulty. When my bike was hooked up to the 911 the reading was similar to the one below, just smoother and had one line only. The red line would arc up and down above and below the green line in a uniform pattern. After yesterdays run with the lambda unplugged I assumed that mine was incorrect as it was running past the green lines, until I saw this...

 

[littleredrooster]

Ok, I think we're making progress! Checked the resistance by unplugging one side & making contact with the connections...reading was approximatly 15.8 I noticed that it wouldn't take a reading when both sides were unplugged, sound right?

No, it doesn't sound right. You were measuring the connectors on the top of each injector and not the wiring loom, weren't you?

 

[denny]

I measured both the wiring loom & the connectors on top of the injector. Both gave the same reading...

 

[littleredrooster]

I measured both the wiring loom & the connectors on top of the injector. Both gave the same reading...

Something wrong, then.

Disconnect the wiring connectors from both injectors.
Get the multimeter and set it to Ohms (or resistance or whatever it says on the dial - NOT volts or amps.
Touch the two multimeter probes together - the dial should go full scale, or the figures should show a blank line (usually). This means it is working and the internal battery isn't flat.
Now measure the resistance of each injector by touching the probes to each connector at the same time - not the wiring, the actual injector on top of the injector body.

What numbers are you getting, and more importantly, are they the same?

 

[denny]

I borrowed a flashy meter called Fluke from our works dept here. It's automatic and as is deffo working. In order to get a reading I basically touched a probe onto a prong each on one injector socket...I'm pretty sure that's what you're getting at? The reading was 15.8, isn't that what Steptoe said it should be?

 

[littleredrooster]

I borrowed a flashy meter called Fluke from our works dept here. It's automatic and as is deffo working. In order to get a reading I basically touched a probe onto a prong each on one injector socket...I'm pretty sure that's what you're getting at? The reading was 15.8, isn't that what Steptoe said it should be?

Ahhh...perhaps I misread your other post. 15.8 was the reading for both injectors then, not one injector and the loom measurement?

Your statement ..."I noticed that it wouldn't take a reading when both sides were unplugged..." rather puts things in a different context. As long as 15.8 was the reading for each (disconnected) injector, that probably sounds OK.

I'm still not convinced, though...

 

[denny]

Checked again by placing a probe on each of the connector spades as per pic below. Reading was 15.6

Either way, the bike seemed to run fine albeit with idle slightly higher than normal at approx 1150-1200.