BMW R1200GS Engine Life

  • Thread starter Thread starter Gavin Buckle
  • Start date Start date

Gavin Buckle

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Greetings.
Regarding the R1200GS I was wondering what rev range one should change gears eg between 4000 - 5000 or 5000 - 6000 for the engine to last as long as possible without major overhauls. The same applies to maintaining the revs while cruising.
Gavin Buckle
 
I've never even got close to wearing one out, they fall to bits long before that happens:blast

Cos its a high comp motor i'd guess its best not to lug it in high gear/low rev/hi load situation, and apart from that keep the revs below the red line and just ride it normally, good servicing/oil quality, letting the bike warm up before 'giving it the beans' are much more likely to effect engine life than what revs you change gear at:nenau

Shep
 
Gavin Buckle said:
Greetings.
Regarding the R1200GS I was wondering what rev range one should change gears eg between 4000 - 5000 or 5000 - 6000 for the engine to last as long as possible without major overhauls. The same applies to maintaining the revs while cruising.
Gavin Buckle
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Don't rev the b****cks off it when it's cold and buy the best oil you can, preferably synthetic because it does a better job. The next best thing is to reduce the oil / filter change interval, as fresh, clean oil works better too. Good maintenance is much more important than trying to save the engine by changing gear at lower revs, which doesn't sound like much fun either.
 
Owen Snell said:
Don't rev the b****cks off it when it's cold and buy the best oil you can, preferably synthetic because it does a better job. The next best thing is to reduce the oil / filter change interval, as fresh, clean oil works better too. Good maintenance is much more important than trying to save the engine by changing gear at lower revs, which doesn't sound like much fun either.
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Was always told never to use synthetic oil and to stick with mineral only
 
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Be gentle until she's warmin-up :augie

Don't chug-it and don't scream-it.

Any oil, regularly and a filter every oil change.

:beerjug:
 
I don't think it's necessary to treat the engine as if it was made by the Italians in 1980.

Service as per the book using oil to the spec' in the book and unless you are unlucky or do the sort of things that will harm any engine it ought to last for at least 100k without any work. Mine's coming up to 75k, it may need the valve guide oil seals doing but other than that it's mechanically as good as new.
 
BeemerBaz said:
Was always told never to use synthetic oil and to stick with mineral only
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Synthetic oil does the same job as mineral oil, just better. Synthetic oil has a much narrower range of oil molecules in it, which are the ones you need and not the ones you don't want. Mineral oil relies on additives to get the lubrication properties right and it is the additives that break down first, leading to poor lubrication. Synthetic is more pure oil and less additives.

MGJ said:
oh no this is turning into an oil thread.
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A thread about reducing engine wear is bound to end up as an oil thread, as good quality oil and frequent oil changes will have more impact on engine wear than any other single factor.
 
Owen Snell said:
A thread about reducing engine wear is bound to end up as an oil thread, as good quality oil and frequent oil changes will have more impact on engine wear than any other single factor.
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So, if I use top quality oil I can fling the air filter and the engine won't eat itself.:thumb
 
Rev the nuts off it and ride it like you stole it. You won't break it.
 
ChrisKelley said:
Photo024.jpg


Be gentle until she's warmin-up :augie

Don't chug-it and don't scream-it.

Any oil, regularly and a filter every oil change.

:beerjug:
Click to expand...

They're some nasty watermarks on your RID - thought you took care of your bike? :augie
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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