marcopol
Registered user
Looking for a good one man vacuum brake fuild bleeding kit. Any recommendations?
Brake Fluid Bleeder
- Thread starter marcopol
- Start date
Mitivac
I bought the metal casting version 'cos it lives in the garage and I reckon the plastic one will get broken.
Really helps with a recently serviced and now dry system.
There's loads of suppliers to found via google.
I bought the metal casting version 'cos it lives in the garage and I reckon the plastic one will get broken.
Really helps with a recently serviced and now dry system.
There's loads of suppliers to found via google.
Large syringe (like this: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160418638111) and a length of tube.
I bought a couple of these years ago when I had a Transalp with brakes that were near-impossible to bleed the conventional way. Just suck the fluid through with the syringe and the job's done in seconds, but remember to top up the reservoir.......
I bought a couple of these years ago when I had a Transalp with brakes that were near-impossible to bleed the conventional way. Just suck the fluid through with the syringe and the job's done in seconds, but remember to top up the reservoir.......
mityvac, but you don't actually need one for an 11**.
marcopol
Registered user
Bleeder
Syringe, never thought about that, good one.
Syringe, never thought about that, good one.
Stewart H
Registered user
Anoter vote for syringes here, get a second one for emptying the master cylinder and bleed from the bottom up 
Stewart
Stewart
I went for Stewart's syringe idea - at least I've got the syringes and tubing but I'm waiting till I've got the tank off before I change the fluid so I can get to the ABS unit (although I've read conflicting reports as to whether you actually need to bleed at the ABS unit...).
you don't.
Why Not?
I didn't know this.
I've only had the bike for a while and haven't done much yet.
What do 11**'s have that make recharging hydraulic systems easy?
Any tips would be welcome.
I didn't know this.
I've only had the bike for a while and haven't done much yet.
What do 11**'s have that make recharging hydraulic systems easy?
Any tips would be welcome.
Stewart H
Registered user
Mine was a bit of a pig to bleed conventionally, using a syringe and pushing clean fluid from the bleed nipple upwards (periodically emptying the master cylinder) has proved effective, tying the lever back to the handlebar overnight seems to help too.
Stewart
you can just bleed a pre servo 11** in the old fashioned way with a length of tube from the caliper into a jam jar. just make sure you don't suck any air back into the system.
squeeze lever, open nipple, close nipple, release lever, repeat.
servo models are slightly different and you should seek out the relevant threads on the subject.
I use the syringe to pull the fluid down through the bleed nipple - i.e. the conventional 'direction'. That way there's no risk of fluid overflowing from the reservoir and eating paint off things.
But ditto on strapping the lever back to the bar overnight - it does improve things. For a while at least.
But ditto on strapping the lever back to the bar overnight - it does improve things. For a while at least.
I did a master cylinder piston / seal replacement last Wednesday with the help of a techno-savvy mate. Simple compared to Haynes method.
Opened RHS caliper bleed nip and drained fluid into jar via pipe till stopped. Retightened Bleed nip.
Simply removed lever NOT switch. Removed boot, undid retaining screw and extracted piston (bit of brute force needed, this is a '96 1100). Inspected/cleaned cylindre, installed new piston and then (this is the clever bit) removed each caliper in turn and forced apart pads. It is VERY important to have master cylinder cover in place for this part (trust me! You've seen Holby City when they hit an artery...
).
Lo and behold, the master res refills with fluid. It is then a doddle to refit calipers and pump lever to reset pads, taking careful note of the fluid level in the res and topping up accordingly.
I didn't believe this was possible so insisted we bleed the system anyway. No air was found and the lever action is as good as ever.
Opened RHS caliper bleed nip and drained fluid into jar via pipe till stopped. Retightened Bleed nip.
Simply removed lever NOT switch. Removed boot, undid retaining screw and extracted piston (bit of brute force needed, this is a '96 1100). Inspected/cleaned cylindre, installed new piston and then (this is the clever bit) removed each caliper in turn and forced apart pads. It is VERY important to have master cylinder cover in place for this part (trust me! You've seen Holby City when they hit an artery...
).Lo and behold, the master res refills with fluid. It is then a doddle to refit calipers and pump lever to reset pads, taking careful note of the fluid level in the res and topping up accordingly.
I didn't believe this was possible so insisted we bleed the system anyway. No air was found and the lever action is as good as ever.
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