Brake fluid change - A con ??

Bollocks. They is not. (on motorcycles). There is a flexible diaphragm in the lid to permit fluid level or rise & fall without contact with air. Otherwise fluid would run out when you drop the bike.

NUMBER 1!

Myke.

:blast Didn't think of that. But then, I NEVER drop my bike. :D
 
Just going through a load of receipts and found the one for last year's service. Renew brake fluid 31.22 brake fluid 10.95 all plus Vat.
 
It's a con, one of those 'watching my back' things. Yes in theory brake fluid can absorb moisture from the air, but we're talking about a sealed braking system here.

I thought that rubber brake hoses are permeable to air.:nenau
2 years may not be strictly necessary but I would have thought after 3 -4 yrs it would be a very good idea?


(especially those with a degree in talking bollox).

Do they give this qualification as part of an Open University course because I reckon I could ace the exam ... done most of my course work on here already :thumb
 
Your Turn

It's a con, one of those 'watching my back' things. Yes in theory brake fluid can absorb moisture from the air, but we're talking about a sealed braking system here.
Never in my young apprentice days on cars was changing brake fluid a service item.
My 1150 is ten years old (50,000 miles) and the brake fluid is the original, my brakes are superb, but I admit I'm not a 'heavy' user of my brakes under normal conditions.

Just my view, others will almost certainly disagree. (especially those with a degree in talking bollox).
To provide a suitable reply!
Myke
 
Just going through a load of receipts and found the one for last year's service. Renew brake fluid 31.22 brake fluid 10.95 all plus Vat.

I've just noted the same thing on the previous owner's receipts and same cost.

I better make sure that the receipt goes in with the service book as that says nothing about brake fluid changes ..............

The flush done to my 1150GSA was £174 (from Lind too). At the time they said it was that they had to remove something or other and to purge it etc, etc .........:blagblah :blagblah

Well, I won't be having it this time ! :D
 
I know , I know they shouldnt' be should they but I thought that was how the moisture bleeds in ..through the hoses?

That's what WIKI says if you google wiki brake fluid :bounce1 ...

Most automotive professionals agree that glycol-based brake fluid, (DOT 3, DOT 4, DOT 5.1) should be flushed, or changed, every 1–2 years.[2] Many manufacturers also require periodic fluid changes to ensure reliability and safety. Once installed, moisture diffuses into the fluid through brake hoses and rubber seals and, eventually, the fluid will have to be replaced when the water content becomes too high. Electronic testers and test strips are commercially available to measure moisture content. The corrosion inhibitors also degrade over time. New fluid should always be stored in a sealed container to avoid moisture intrusion.
 
I've noticed lately that the brake fluid I buy has stopped coming in sealed containers. It always used to.
 
Is it just normal fluid or silicone. Used to use that stuff a lot on the show bikes. Not because it doesn't absorb moisture but it doesn't damage paint.
 
How to sell brake fluid

That's what WIKI says if you google wiki brake fluid :bounce1 ...

Most automotive professionals agree that glycol-based brake fluid, (DOT 3, DOT 4, DOT 5.1) should be flushed, or changed, every 1–2 years.[2] Many manufacturers also require periodic fluid changes to ensure reliability and safety. Once installed, moisture diffuses into the fluid through brake hoses and rubber seals and, eventually, the fluid will have to be replaced when the water content becomes too high. Electronic testers and test strips are commercially available to measure moisture content. The corrosion inhibitors also degrade over time. New fluid should always be stored in a sealed container to avoid moisture intrusion.

All modern rubber hoses only use the outer rubber as a protective sheath.
I have looked, but cannot find any rubber hoses on my R1200.
In a lifetime of racing and rallying, I have never caused the fluid to boil in a road car or bike. I have done so regularly in rally cars. Not really surprising, when on a night event, I have seen all 4 disks glowing, and the brake pads along with them. All one does in this case is pump up the brakes and then left foot brake, always keeping the pedal slightly depressed to keep a lock on the fluid.That way, one can complete a stage with brakes, and let them cool off on the road section before the next one.
In my early days of rallying, we set the rear brakes on fire twice, and only having a fire extinguishger on board saved the vehicle. We discovered that brake fluid is highly inflammable.
The brake fluid manufacturers used to sell a device to monitor absorbed moisture in the brake fluid, but stopped doing so, because it prevented unneccessary sales.
I have access to such a device, which measures absorbed moisture in parts per million. Waste of time on brake fluid. Have never changed in on a road vehicle or bike, and will never do so, because, even on trips across Europe, I have never had to brake hard enough long enough to boil the brake fluid whilst driving at road legal speeds. (As hard as the damn thing will go - in Germany)
Manufacturers are "dangling the skeleton" to promote sales and increase service charges.
Myke
 
do you want to go away and think about that ......?? :)
He may well be thinking of Grahams Law. Maybe you would like to read up on it. It's certainly a problem in some industries and applications :- permeation of gases through solids.
On a practical level, over the last few years I have taken various friends on their first trips to the Alps. Prior to leaving I advised them to change their brake fluid and check pad thickness because there is nowhere in the Uk that you can give the brakes such a hard time for so long. They all thought/said I was talking bollocks but thats what 35 years worth of experience is all about:augie!
Funny that we had to change fluid and bleed brakes on three bikes on different trips at the side of the road (1 front and 2 rears)
Not that funny if you ask them what its like to have the lever to the bar or pedal doing nothing when you are running out of road:eek:
One of the riders never did recover his confidence in his ability to stop the bike and spoilt the trip somewhat.
On later trips they have all done a fluid change before leaving and have had no problems:thumb2.
As the O P said, the dealer price seems high but if you have not got the facilities or knowhow to do it yourself take it to an indy who will do it for less.
What price peace of mind and being able to stop? Or don't leave the UK:D
 
The simple answer is yes. £200 is too much.

Bleeding brakes and changing pads is well within the limits of most DIY mechanics. Have a go yourself. It's also quite rewarding knowing that everything is good in the stopping department.
 
I agree that it probably is wise to change it every coupld of years. The charge was a joke, but in line with what I was quoted for changing perfectly servicable pads. :censor:
 
Bollocks. They is not. (on motorcycles). There is a flexible diaphragm in the lid to permit fluid level or rise & fall without contact with air. Otherwise fluid would run out when you drop the bike.

NUMBER 1!

Myke.

On servo braked bikes the brake fluid does and will run out if you drop the bike . It has an open breather hose from the servo reservoirs.

Just thought you'd best know before you pass on any more of your knowledge. :thumb
 


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