Brake pad pin removal

[Green Boy]

Hi,

I've got a '04 1150 gsa with Servo/ABS and tried to get teh pads out tonight in order to see what state they are in. However the pad pin looks like it came off the Mary Rose!

Also they are calipers made by Tokico and have 'bmw' on them so the pad pin is held in place by a split pin but doesn't have a hex head on it so I guess that it is supposed to come out fairly easily....

Given the fact that mine won't budge, am I missing something and if not, how do i get it out - any ideas?

 

[Ian J Hartley]

I'm not sure this will help, but my 03 GS has BMW labelled calipers (servo/abs), and the pads are held in with pin that has a spring clip (safety device) which engages in a groove in the pin, once the clip is removed, the pin is unscrewed using a T30 Torx.

 

[Steptoe]

I'm not sure this will help, but my 03 GS has BMW labelled calipers (servo/abs), and the pads are held in with pin that has a spring clip (safety device) which engages in a groove in the pin, once the clip is removed, the pin is unscrewed using a T30 Torx.

Yours has different calipers and retaining pin to Green boy.

 

[Green Boy]

I'm not sure this will help, but my 03 GS has BMW labelled calipers (servo/abs), and the pads are held in with pin that has a spring clip (safety device) which engages in a groove in the pin, once the clip is removed, the pin is unscrewed using a T30 Torx.

Hi Ian,

Thanks for the thought and that would be a lot easier if there was a Torx head to access. Not sure the logic behind the design of my calipers but hell I'm sure it makes sense to someone in Germany!

 

[Deleted account 211025001]

With the caveat that I have not seen your type of caliper I can say that I've only ever come across 2 types of pin; those that screw in and those that are a push fit. Sometimes the push fit pins often have a split 'bulge' at one end to help keep it in securely. All normally use a split pin.

When really corroded the 'bulge' can clagg up making them hard to remove.

So, from your description, I'm guessing it's a push fit in which case You just need to drift it out, possibly with a judicious application of WD.

For what they cost it's probably getting some new pins for the rebuild.

HTH
Andres

 

[MikeO]

I have these Tokico (sp?) calipers. The pin is simply retained by the P-clip. The recess the end of the pins fit into on the inside edge is blind, so you can't get a drift into the other side to drive them out.

Poor design - you are apparently meant to remove the pin and then ease the pin out with some needle-nosed pliers. Mine weren't corroded, so I could do this, but I reflected at the time (as I replaced the pins with stainless ones) that it was a crap bit of design...

Mike

 

[Green Boy]

I have these Tokico (sp?) calipers. The pin is simply retained by the P-clip. The recess the end of the pins fit into on the inside edge is blind, so you can't get a drift into the other side to drive them out.

Poor design - you are apparently meant to remove the pin and then ease the pin out with some needle-nosed pliers. Mine weren't corroded, so I could do this, but I reflected at the time (as I replaced the pins with stainless ones) that it was a crap bit of design...

Mike

+1. In a word - cack

 

[DrAlf]

Old thread which I'm digging up - but I now have exactly the same issue as the OP with the same later caliper design. What an absolute wnk design - there's no recess to drift the pin out and mine is heavily corroded. The earlier design calipers on the 1150's were much better and easier to work on.

What options do I have if I can't get the pin to move?

Ta@thumb

 

[DrAlf]

Got it out - pair of mini mole grips and a lot of wriggling. Luckily I have very strong wrist muscles

Shite design still

 

[West coast gser]

Old thread which I'm digging up - but I now have exactly the same issue as the OP with the same later caliper design. What an absolute wnk design - there's no recess to drift the pin out and mine is heavily corroded. The earlier design calipers on the 1150's were much better and easier to work on.

What options do I have if I can't get the pin to move?

Ta@thumb

Drill a small hole thru where the pin goes then drift it out ..done that on jap bikes before ..with no ill effects

 

[DrAlf]

Drill a small hole thru where the pin goes then drift it out ..done that on jap bikes before ..with no ill effects

That would have been a last resort - it's out thankfully. I've now got a new problem though - pistons stuck out and can't reseat them, seized solid C Clamps ordered

 

[mouthfulloflake]

Ive always used a small punch from the safety pin side and driven it out with a small hammer.

also, I have been missing that safety pin for about 60,000 miles now on my 1100GS

see the red arrow in the photo

 

[mikeyboy]

That would have been a last resort - it's out thankfully. I've now got a new problem though - pistons stuck out and can't reseat them, seized solid C Clamps ordered

Blow em out with 150 psi,or pump them as far as you can with master cyl.
Why would you force them back in if they need attention

 

[mikeyboy]

Ive always used a small punch from the safety pin side and driven it out with a small hammer.

also, I have been missing that safety pin for about 60,000 miles now on my 1100GS

see the red arrow in the photo

That’s a rear caliper
It bears no resemblance to the front tockico the OP is asking advise about.

 

[mouthfulloflake]

That’s a rear caliper
It bears no resemblance to the front tockico the OP is asking advise about.

terribly sorry, but I did not see anywhere in the original post where he said "front" and since he was talking about a single caliper it seemed obvious it was likely ( to me at least) that he was talking about the rear unit.

and before you feel the need to correct "outtomuch" you should know the pin he posted a photo of looks identical to the rear caliper pin haha.

 

[Riceburner]

Old thread which I'm digging up - but I now have exactly the same issue as the OP with the same later caliper design. What an absolute wnk design - there's no recess to drift the pin out and mine is heavily corroded. The earlier design calipers on the 1150's were much better and easier to work on.

What options do I have if I can't get the pin to move?

Ta@thumb

Replace em with Brembo.

I've done that twice now on my Rocksters - much better brakes and the calipers last longer between cleaning. I 'think' the reason the Tokicos clag up so badly is that the difference in diameter between cylinders and pistons is to large. IE there's more 'gap' on the Tokicos for crap to work it's way between the piston and cylinder, and then get behind the seals. The gap on the Brembos is about half.

Talk to motorworks - they're well aware of the issue.

 

[DrAlf]

Replace em with Brembo.

I've done that twice now on my Rocksters - much better brakes and the calipers last longer between cleaning. I 'think' the reason the Tokicos clag up so badly is that the difference in diameter between cylinders and pistons is to large. IE there's more 'gap' on the Tokicos for crap to work it's way between the piston and cylinder, and then get behind the seals. The gap on the Brembos is about half.

Talk to motorworks - they're well aware of the issue.

That is interesting - I've literally just booked the bike in to have the calipers rebuilt as they are seized absolutely solid. Given that the rebuild kit itself isn't cheap, and the that the bike needs to be recovered, it's going to be a fookin pricey job What Brembo calipers fit RB? I know that the early R1150GSs had brembos but are you referring to a later design mid life design?

 

[Riceburner]

That is interesting - I've literally just booked the bike in to have the calipers rebuilt as they are seized absolutely solid. Given that the rebuild kit itself isn't cheap, and the that the bike needs to be recovered, it's going to be a fookin pricey job What Brembo calipers fit RB? I know that the early R1150GSs had brembos but are you referring to a later design mid life design?

As said - talk to Motorworks, they'll have them in stock and they know what fits what.

Having said that - if you look at the part numbers - the Tokico and Brembo calipers for the EVO brakes (ie those with a 365mm* disc) are interchangeable so basically any Brembo from an R1150 that looks like this one below, should fit (as I understand it).



*IIRC


These (below) are the equivalent Tokicos. (and the POS 4-line hoses that were standard on the Rockster)

 

[DrAlf]

As said - talk to Motorworks, they'll have them in stock and they know what fits what.

Having said that - if you look at the part numbers - the Tokico and Brembo calipers for the EVO brakes (ie those with a 365mm* disc) are interchangeable so basically any Brembo from an R1150 that looks like this one below, should fit (as I understand it).



*IIRC


These (below) are the equivalent Tokicos. (and the POS 4-line hoses that were standard on the Rockster)

Thanks RB - that makes sense and the Brembos above are a later design to the original ones on early 1150 bikes so there must be at least 3 different types of calipers. Rockster discs are 320mm BTW - bigger than the 305mm on 1150GS bikes and noticeably more powerful I've booked the bike in for a caliper rebuild now - so I'll go ahead despite the expense and should hopefully be back on the road soon

 

[Riceburner]

Thanks RB - that makes sense and the Brembos above are a later design to the original ones on early 1150 bikes so there must be at least 3 different types of calipers. Rockster discs are 320mm BTW - bigger than the 305mm on 1150GS bikes and noticeably more powerful I've booked the bike in for a caliper rebuild now - so I'll go ahead despite the expense and should hopefully be back on the road soon

Yes, 320mm is the Evo brakes. (Yes BMW simply called big discs* EVO)


* That everyone else had been using for years.