trotsky
Registered user
Okay folks, bit of an attempt to gather in the accumulated knowledge of the site.
I'm going to do a replacement of the pads on my 1150GSA (ABS and servo) this weekend having bought a new set from Mr Steptoe. I wasn't terribly worried about doing this since I've done it on bikes since I had an RS100 with drum brakes, then I made the mistake of searching the site for those little words of advice that can make all the difference.
So far I have gathered the following from various threads (in no particular order or author, but I remember the first was posted by Steptoe so is probably worth reading in the circumstances):
1 Get the relevant manual for the bike - I've checked, I have Haynes, Clymer and the BWM one. I've read them, they agree on procedure reasonably well and I'll decide which one to use based on which one stays open to the page that I need.
2 Make sure you are very slow and gentle when pushing the cylinders in. "Slow" - check, "gentle" - check.
3 Have a spare circlip or two for when the ones holding the pins in break. Makes note to ensure bike/car spares shop open when pad fitting being done.
4 Have a hammer and punch (or similar) available for pushing the pins out of the calliper. Thinks - probably should use the word "gentle" somewhere in there near "hammer".
5 Light and careful smear of CopperEase over the back of the new pads before seating. Your brake related lubricating gunge of choice may vary slightly... That's what's written on the tube I have. Note to self - how old is that tube?
6 Bit of emery cloth to clean, and then a light coating of CopperEase or similar on the pin when replacing.
So, anything there I shouldn't do because I've misunderstood or do you have a useful hint or two that I've missed?
I'm going to do a replacement of the pads on my 1150GSA (ABS and servo) this weekend having bought a new set from Mr Steptoe. I wasn't terribly worried about doing this since I've done it on bikes since I had an RS100 with drum brakes, then I made the mistake of searching the site for those little words of advice that can make all the difference.
So far I have gathered the following from various threads (in no particular order or author, but I remember the first was posted by Steptoe so is probably worth reading in the circumstances):
1 Get the relevant manual for the bike - I've checked, I have Haynes, Clymer and the BWM one. I've read them, they agree on procedure reasonably well and I'll decide which one to use based on which one stays open to the page that I need.
2 Make sure you are very slow and gentle when pushing the cylinders in. "Slow" - check, "gentle" - check.
3 Have a spare circlip or two for when the ones holding the pins in break. Makes note to ensure bike/car spares shop open when pad fitting being done.
4 Have a hammer and punch (or similar) available for pushing the pins out of the calliper. Thinks - probably should use the word "gentle" somewhere in there near "hammer".
5 Light and careful smear of CopperEase over the back of the new pads before seating. Your brake related lubricating gunge of choice may vary slightly... That's what's written on the tube I have. Note to self - how old is that tube?
6 Bit of emery cloth to clean, and then a light coating of CopperEase or similar on the pin when replacing.
So, anything there I shouldn't do because I've misunderstood or do you have a useful hint or two that I've missed?