Brake pad replacment 800GS
- Thread starter tim dew
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Greggers
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Oooh that's spooky ...
Yaaas - s'easy enough as long as the pad retaining pin isn't corroded or gunked up.
Send me yr email address by pm and I'll post a few pages of BMW wisdom...
Greg
Yaaas - s'easy enough as long as the pad retaining pin isn't corroded or gunked up.
Send me yr email address by pm and I'll post a few pages of BMW wisdom...
Greg
Sooty09
Registered user
Changing rear pads is a 10 minute job and is done without removing the wheel or caliper.
Remove the small spring clip form the retaining pin, using a long narrow drift start to punch the pin out of the caliper. Bash away, start swearing at it, start blaming BMW for crap parts, then think again, Why was it so easy last time?
Start again this time using the drift to knock the pin towards the wheel, it should come out very easily.
Pull the old pads out, clean round the pistons and wipe away as much crud as possible. Check the caliper slides freely on the mounting bracket.
Apply a little brake grease round the pistons and push them both together back into the caliper, they should slide freely.
Apply a bit of brake grease to the buffer ends and rear of the new pads, the buffer end fits into a slot in the caliper. Push the retaining pin into the caliper and through the holes in the pads. Drift the pin the last 5mm using the punch again until the small spring clip hole becomes visible. (this is quite difficult because you are using the drift through the rear wheel from above the chain guard so it easily slips off).
Fit the retaining spring clip, pump the rear brakes to push the pads out against the disk. Rotate the wheel and check the brake action several times.
On the first run the brake feel will have changed, I usually apply the rear brake gently for a few yards while applying power so the bike dose not slow. After repeating this carefully several times the new pads will have bedded in.
Remove the small spring clip form the retaining pin, using a long narrow drift start to punch the pin out of the caliper. Bash away, start swearing at it, start blaming BMW for crap parts, then think again, Why was it so easy last time?
Start again this time using the drift to knock the pin towards the wheel, it should come out very easily.
Pull the old pads out, clean round the pistons and wipe away as much crud as possible. Check the caliper slides freely on the mounting bracket.
Apply a little brake grease round the pistons and push them both together back into the caliper, they should slide freely.
Apply a bit of brake grease to the buffer ends and rear of the new pads, the buffer end fits into a slot in the caliper. Push the retaining pin into the caliper and through the holes in the pads. Drift the pin the last 5mm using the punch again until the small spring clip hole becomes visible. (this is quite difficult because you are using the drift through the rear wheel from above the chain guard so it easily slips off).
Fit the retaining spring clip, pump the rear brakes to push the pads out against the disk. Rotate the wheel and check the brake action several times.
On the first run the brake feel will have changed, I usually apply the rear brake gently for a few yards while applying power so the bike dose not slow. After repeating this carefully several times the new pads will have bedded in.
MikeMike
Registered user
Pictures?
Here is a video that might help you for the rear at least:
http://f800riders.org/forum/showthread.php/45237-DIY-vids.
Well done.
There is also a good link to the back wheel set up of the F800 on another video that is in two parts.
Here is a video that might help you for the rear at least:
http://f800riders.org/forum/showthread.php/45237-DIY-vids.
Well done.
There is also a good link to the back wheel set up of the F800 on another video that is in two parts.
Big thanks to Sooty & MikeMike based on sooties narrative and having watched the video I fitted a pair of sintered EBC (£23) to my 08 F650, had to buy a star 12mm socket (£4). Job took 20 mins including lots of internal cleaning.
dealer quoted £75 10 days ago
Thanks again guys.
dealer quoted £75 10 days ago
Thanks again guys.
Replaced the rear pads this morning with a little help from a friend. Thanks for the guide and the pictures (Greggers)
I took the top off the brake reservoir and had to syringe out some fluid after fitting the new pads.
I fitted EBC pads ordered from E bay at £15 my local BMW deal wanted £30 for a pair plus I am sure an hour labour, all done at home for a fraction of the cost.
Thanks Tim
I took the top off the brake reservoir and had to syringe out some fluid after fitting the new pads.
I fitted EBC pads ordered from E bay at £15 my local BMW deal wanted £30 for a pair plus I am sure an hour labour, all done at home for a fraction of the cost.
Thanks Tim
Blobby
Registered user
Thanks for link to the video MikeMike. Will order my pads today.
stephen.stallebrass
Registered user
How are they, have they been any good? Seen lots on eBay too but as I know sweet F.A. about this I don't know if they are actually any good. The EBC ones are £14 on ebay compared to £26 at Nippy Normans.
I've never done any bike maintenance before but I've just spent some dosh on new tools and now it's time to get my hands dirty and learn. I've seen a couple of videos, which make it look very easy so I'm fairly confident.
skywalker
Guest
Replaced the rear pads this morning with a little help from a friend. Thanks for the guide and the pictures (Greggers)
I took the top off the brake reservoir and had to syringe out some fluid after fitting the new pads.
I fitted EBC pads ordered from E bay at £15 my local BMW deal wanted £30 for a pair plus I am sure an hour labour, all done at home for a fraction of the cost.
Thanks Tim
You're wrong labour time will be 15mins. Ok so you've got some pads cheap but they'll end up wearing the disc out twice as fast.
And before some says no they won't -they will
StumpyFingers
Registered user
I fitted EBC pads to my Transalp and they were rubbish, I changed back to OEM pads and the brakes were 100% better.
I have decided after that fiasco I would only ever use OEM parts on the brakes.
So it costs a little more money, my life is worth it.
I have decided after that fiasco I would only ever use OEM parts on the brakes.
So it costs a little more money, my life is worth it.
+1 for the OEM pads and any other consumables..
I've just extended the warranty and I'm not giving them any excuse's to not pay up, if the 'unstoppable' stops...
Sooty09
Registered user
24000 miles on my original pads and still lots of life. My wife did 18000 on her first F650GS pads but only 6000 on the EBC replacement.
Despite knowing these figures I will not be fitting OEM pads. I would buy the original compound from an independent supplier but know if I buy from a BMW spares dept Im being well and truly ripped off.
Expect to pay £40.00 + per pair from BMW, £12.00 to £20.00 from an alternative source. For what its worth I did similar figures for an old R1150R. Pads should last 3x longer for twice the price seems worth it, except the second set lasted half as long. Seems the genuine spares were not as good as the originals.
Despite knowing these figures I will not be fitting OEM pads. I would buy the original compound from an independent supplier but know if I buy from a BMW spares dept Im being well and truly ripped off.
Expect to pay £40.00 + per pair from BMW, £12.00 to £20.00 from an alternative source. For what its worth I did similar figures for an old R1150R. Pads should last 3x longer for twice the price seems worth it, except the second set lasted half as long. Seems the genuine spares were not as good as the originals.
StumpyFingers
Registered user
I did not say I would buy from BMW, I would of course look for the pads at a cheaper outlet, I believe Goldfen make good pads so might be worth a look.
But for piece of mind I would prefer OEM as they are known to work.
stephen.stallebrass
Registered user
Just replaced my rear brake pads with the EBC from Ebay above, I'd already bought them before I saw your comments. Time will tell if these pads are any good, I've kept the old ones just in case. Although, I did have a quick and cursory look for negative EBC reviews and I couldn't find any, they were all very positive.
Anyway, man that was easy to do... why the hell would anybody pay someone at BMW, or any other garage for that matter, to change your pads for you? Took me like 5 minutes and I'd never done it before. I barely used any of my shiny new tools, LOL.
Anyway, man that was easy to do... why the hell would anybody pay someone at BMW, or any other garage for that matter, to change your pads for you? Took me like 5 minutes and I'd never done it before. I barely used any of my shiny new tools, LOL.
You might wish to reconsider the OEM generalisation when looking at the no-name Chaiwanese OEM wheel bearings.. I prefer to see SKF, Timken etc on stuff like this. Having said that, I have no complaints about the pads as fitted but the bearings lasted barely 3k miles.
twisticles
Registered user
SKF - made in Shanghai since 1995.
Timken - made in Mexico, Poland...
Always use name-brand Chaiwanese bearings, I think is the point
Blobby
Registered user
How far down are people generally letting their rear pads wear before replacing them? 1mm left? They appear to start with 6mm.
Dave Ett
Registered user
Until the wear indicator - the little bit which joins the two halves of pad together. That's why its there...
Bit of a bump...
...but hey it'll make someone else's search easier in the future, i hope!
I'm looking at new rear pads on eBay and EBC seem to have moved up to dealer prices (£34) Goldfren Sintered for £11 or Kyoto £12.70.
Anyone been using any of these with any measure of success?
My thanks in anticipation,
S
...but hey it'll make someone else's search easier in the future, i hope!
I'm looking at new rear pads on eBay and EBC seem to have moved up to dealer prices (£34) Goldfren Sintered for £11 or Kyoto £12.70.
Anyone been using any of these with any measure of success?
My thanks in anticipation,
S
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