Brakes and ABS

[Blind Lemon Ade]

... The rule is though to turn the ABS off if you are going off road or are likely to be going over a poor road surface.

I live in Kent - I might as well not bother with the ABS at all, then !

 

[everywherevirtually]

I live in Kent - I might as well not bother with the ABS at all, then !

I used to live in Canterbury so I have to agree with you mate

I can't decide if its a good thing or not. A car pulled a U-turn on me last year and I slammed on the brakes and the ABS kicked in. I was alarmed at how I wasn't skidding but I also wasn't slowing down fast enough.

Then this year as I crossed the Albanian border I turned the ABS off to travel across the no mans land which was nothing more than potholed mud track and forgot to turn it back on once I got back on the highway. Approaching the next bend I came in a little too hot and stupidly went for the anchors. I ended up doing my first power drift around the bend but just about managed to keep it shiny side up

 

[ILMV]

I ended up doing my first power drift around the bend but just about managed to keep it shiny side up

Good effort

I am always a little too cautious to hit the front brake to hard, even with ABS :O

I too turn it off when going up near my local abandoned quarry type road, it just kicks in way to often and you wont slow it...

 

[samuelsnow]

I've had an F800GS for some months now and fairly often the ABS is on and thumping away for no obvious reason. I think what is happening is that i initiate braking on a small bump/pothole and the ABS jumps in and remains on all the time i continue to brake - even though i'm not braking hard enough to lock the front wheel.

Is this normal?

Its quite normal, first few months I had the bike it happened loads. it seems much less frequent now. I think its either 'worn in' or I have got used to it

 

[samuelsnow]

Rear caliper/knocking

When I slow down just before I come to a stop I can Hear and feel a slight knocking through the footpegs that sounds like its coming from the rear of the bike. I stuck it up on the stand and moved the rear wheel around and no play there. i did notice whilst I was checking that the rear caliper has some movement? I know the discs 'float' but the front caliper is solid with no movement so Im wondering if it could be this? FYI Im not using the rear brake when this happens. Any ideas?

 

[Greggers]

Sam...

The rear disc is solid, not a floater, so the caliper has to be able to move slightly (on the pins) to be able to accommodate pad wear/movement etc. I'm not sure whether the rear caliper is twin or single cylinder, but generally speaking a single piston caliper will need to slide laterally on mounting pins..

On the front, that movement is provided for by the 'float' or movement of the discs on the bobbins, and a twin piston caliper, so it can be mounted solidly on the forkleg.

The first thing I'd check is that the disc isn't warped - just turn the wheel with the bike on the stand and you'll see/hear any points at which the disc binds. Other than that there's not much to check with the rear brake...

How often does this noise occur? Does it happen when you rotate the wheel backwards? Is it one clunk per rotation or is the period longer ..? Have you checked the chain and sprocekts? It might also be worth checking the hub's cush rubbers - I found one of mine was separated when I changed tyres recently. You say you've checked the rear wheel - no evidence of bearing play at all?

Greg


Just a post script ... check the sprocket and disc bolts to make sure nothing's come loose and is knocking on the swingarm ..

 

[samuelsnow]

Sam...

The rear disc is solid, not a floater, so the caliper has to be able to move slightly (on the pins) to be able to accommodate pad wear/movement etc. I'm not sure whether the rear caliper is twin or single cylinder, but generally speaking a single piston caliper will need to slide laterally on mounting pins..

On the front, that movement is provided for by the 'float' or movement of the discs on the bobbins, and a twin piston caliper, so it can be mounted solidly on the forkleg.

The first thing I'd check is that the disc isn't warped - just turn the wheel with the bike on the stand and you'll see/hear any points at which the disc binds. Other than that there's not much to check with the rear brake...

How often does this noise occur? Does it happen when you rotate the wheel backwards? Is it one clunk per rotation or is the period longer ..? Have you checked the chain and sprocekts? It might also be worth checking the hub's cush rubbers - I found one of mine was separated when I changed tyres recently. You say you've checked the rear wheel - no evidence of bearing play at all?

Greg


Just a post script ... check the sprocket and disc bolts to make sure nothing's come loose and is knocking on the swingarm ..

Thanks Greg,
good info on the rear brake that explains the movement.
No sign of movement bearing play. Chain and sprockets are new but will check the them and hub cush rubbers and let you know

 

[scowler]

brake fluid resevoir advice

while checking my bike the other day i noticed a number of bits floating around in the front brake resevoir, they were tiny fragments and lots of them.
Went for a quick ride , went steady , came back in and the "bits" disappeared.

anybody else had this ?

done 4k miles so far , it's due a service at 5k, is brake fluid changed during the first service ?

think it's worth booking into dealers to be checked out ?


cheers
craig

 

[ILMV]

Changing the brake fluid shouldn't be part of the first service or the 6,000 mile service, but you should make your dealer aware of the issue.

 

[jolyon_russ]

When I had my 5-6k service they changed the brake fluids. The service schedule says 12k miles or 1 year, as my bike was 10 1/2 months and there was quite a bit of discolouration they just changed it.

If you're concerned give your dealer a call, tbh I don't know if sea monkeys are part of the standard fitment :-D


Jolyon

 

[tr5esu]

Changing brake pads Brembo instructions.

Found this in another forum:
Text: http://www.brembo.com/NR/rdonlyres/6F9CD9CB-D8F4-49D8-9563-78189258FC92/10341/ENGflottanti.pdf
Drawings: http://www.brembo.com/NR/rdonlyres/6F9CD9CB-D8F4-49D8-9563-78189258FC92/10353/DISEGNOflottanti.pdf
it may be useful to someone! (although it's pretty much obvious what to do and I had changed a couple of times already before finding this pdf).
I was quoted £110 to change the front set of pads at the dealer last time (was doing 10K service and they noticed the pads had about 10% left on them), so I bought the pads for about £20/30 and changed them in 15minutes.

Cheers

 

[Greggers]

Front brake pads

Morning all...

I need to replace my front pads after 5500 miles, but it is ex ORS so I'm not surprised ...

I'm reluctant to buy OE unless I absolutely must, and Halfrauds don't have the F800GS listed so I can't tell which pad to buy ... Does anyone know if any other model uses the same pad as the GS??

Cheers

Greg

 

[kalli]

Hi Greg.

Here is one. I have no idea how good they are though...


http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/BMW-F800-GS-08-front-Brake-Pads_W0QQitemZ220431999163QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Motorcycle_Parts?hash=item3352c560bb&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A12|66%3A2|39%3A1|72%3A1683|240%3A1318|301%3A1|293%3A1|294%3A50

 

[tr5esu]

I bought these ones a while ago:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/EBC-FA209-2-F...34.c0.m14.l1262&_trkparms=|301:0|293:1|294:30

Much better than paying £110 at the dealer

Cheers

 

[Greggers]

Like a true Tosser I should have looked before asking ... the interweb is a wonderful thing...

EBC part number: Front FA209/2 Rear FA213

Compatible models are:

C1 125 - yes really!
F650 ST - 93-00
F650GS/ Dakar 93-07
F800 S / ST REAR ONLY
G650 X-Challenge
HP2 FRONT ONLY

I'm off to 'Frauds this morning ...

G

G

 

[martin c s]

I changed the pads on my old Dakar with non BMW. Then after a long downhill strech in the Picos 2 up fully loaded, I completly lost all brakes, the fluid had boiled I presumed cos they came back after a bit made me decide to pay the extra next time.

 

[Greggers]

interesting ...

I bought standard EBC - not the HH - so will be interested to see if there's any serious difference in performance.

I've only had two experiences of brake failure - I was trying to do a mixture test on my old XR250R, and had driven with the rear brake hard on for about half a mile. Next time I came to use the brake there was nothing, zilch, nada but the pedal went through full travel so I can only assume that was fluid boiling. The second was in my old Saab 900 - heading down Spreadeagle Hill, and just at the bottom they started to fade - no extra pedal travel, just reduced braking effect...

Martin - what was your symptom?

Greg

 

[tr5esu]

I had to first change the rear brake pads on my F800gs when I was green laning and the pads just worn out completely in less than 4 hours riding. I haven't had that problem with the EBC ones.. they may have been a softer, more abrasive set of pads though. The ones that came originally on the bike were Brembo pads which I would think can be purchased independently of the dealer at a fraction of the price?

 

[martin c s]

We got about half way down this long hill when just like you the rear pedal just went all the way down and the front was useless too. I did not pass this info to the passenger just changed down a couple of cogs then let them cool down at the bottom.

 

[Greggers]

Hi Martin - thanks, your reply is exactly what I wanted to hear. From what you say I'm guessing that it was the fluid that was at fault rather than the pads, maybe Dot 5.1 synth fluid with a higher BP is what is needed...

Cheers

Greg