Brakes - cleaning and changing rear pads

Thanks, will try that address.

You might want to consider unblocking ntlworld.com, or being more specific on the rejection rules, it's a pretty large ISP over here, probably tens of thousands of customers. But then again it's your mail, your choice :)
 
JayGee said:
Good info Terry, thanks.
If silicone gease is available with similar high melt point then great, I was just talking about ordinary silicone gease which is fairly liquid even at room temperatures.
Like you said, no problems using copper grease provided you keep it well away from the seals and I don't think you should lube the pistons at all.

JG, when I bought replacement OE Mercedes caliper rebuild kits, made in Germany by ATE, they came with a supply of hi-temp silicone grease for the pistons. So I assume that they are factory built using it. The major advantage to my mind is that it protects the pistons and bores from pitting which kills the seals and is especially good news on a bike as the calipers usually do not have rubber piston boots to keep out moisture and muck.
TM
 
I've also bought brake rebuild kits which include small sachets of red grease, safe for use on rubber. I always put a very thin smear on the seals and pistons when I rebuild a caliper.

Strictly speaking, I suppose, I should have used this type of grease on the caliper slider pins, because they too have rubber seals around them.
 
Mouse said:
I've also bought brake rebuild kits which include small sachets of red grease, safe for use on rubber. I always put a very thin smear on the seals and pistons when I rebuild a caliper.

Strictly speaking, I suppose, I should have used this type of grease on the caliper slider pins, because they too have rubber seals around them.

Should be ok as those pins are not glycol wetted components of the hydraulic system. But I did hear tell of a guy who HC greased the pistons on race car calipers and had the seals swell in practice, jamming the pistons in the extended position so bringing the car to a grindingly hot halt!
 
Part Number....

Does anyone have the correct part number for R1200GS rear brake pads.........?

Just collected some from my local dealer & they don't appear to be the same as (a) the ones on my bike & (b) the ones in this thread......

Many thanks....

Cheers

Dutch
 
Sorry, I just went to the local (non BMW) bike shop and they looked it up in a catalogue. I bought "EBC HH" pads, but only because that was all they had in stock :)
 
Me neither, SPC said they were the same as 1150 rear pads, then gave me a box i'm not sure if they gave me 1200 pads or 1150 ones but they fitted ok!

Regards Shep
 
Mouse said:
Thanks, will try that address. You might want to consider unblocking ntlworld.com, or being more specific on the rejection rules, it's a pretty large ISP over here, probably tens of thousands of customers.

I checked, and we don't block ntlworld.com after all, so it must be on your end. I can assure you that micapeak.com has never, ever sent spam, but of course with the latest viruses forging the return address I'm sure that somebody else has sent spam with micapeak.com as the return address. There's no way we can prevent that.

But perhaps you could assure your ISP that micapeak.com should be unblocked, then you can email me directly. I checked my gmail account, but nothing from you there...
 
Re: Part Number....

Dutchman said:
Does anyone have the correct part number for R1200GS rear brake pads.........?

I had mine replaced at the 6,000 mile service - the number on the Invoice is

M34.21.2.335.465 R.PADS R1100RT/GS
 
Thanks Clive.........

Are they black in colour or copper.........?

OE are copper backing plates, the ones I've just purchased have the same part # you've just quoted and are black painted steel.

The 1200 OE ones are supposedly made of copper to stop the squealing (and avaoid the use of creeping grease............?

Same shape, different material................?

We need to be told................:confused:

(I'll post some pix when I sober up...............late Jan/Early Feb)

Cheers:beerjug:

Dutch
 
Dutchman said:
Thanks Clive.........

Are they black in colour or copper.........?

OE are copper backing plates, the ones I've just purchased have the same part # you've just quoted and are black painted steel.

The 1200 OE ones are supposedly made of copper to stop the squealing (and avaoid the use of creeping grease............?

Same shape, different material................?

We need to be told................:confused:

(I'll post some pix when I sober up...............late Jan/Early Feb)

Cheers:beerjug:

Dutch
Just applying basic engineering and bike experience, perhaps the colour change is not so drastic. Anyhow each generation of engineers at BMW or wherever has to relearn what their fathers forgot 30 years earlier. For sure they will not read or follow the company engineering good practice standards unless held at gun, or salary, point.

So, copper or just copper coloured as with lots of Jap bikes etc???

It makes neither engineering nor commercial sense to make backing plates of elemental copper. The damn things would expand at a rate so different to the other metals in proximity that buckling would be quite likely, and the cost would be probibitive. And that would deter any manufacturer.

Copper or nickel are used in anti sieze compounds, such as grease for brakes, because they handle the temperature but do not gall(attack and bond to)the steel components with which they are in intimate contact at elevated temperature. in our world it is a surface phenomena so we do not need, or want, solid parts made of expensive materials which do not exhibit the surface or structural qualities we require. This is a super gain on our part due to the molecular qualities of these materials working together at low cost.

One example of how not to do it is titanium, in almost any stress bearing joint, as a nut or bolt etc with a steel(or other metallic)mating component, especially at temperatures above ambient.

Titanium has a strong affinity for other metals and galls while you are tightening the thing, especially without anti sieze lube. At temperature it turns to oxide(Moo3) faster than any otherwise stable metal. That is why corrosion with Ti is usually no problem as it forms an oxide skin instantaneously so preventing further reaction with chlorides(salt)etc. This is the reason that welding must be done with a shielding gas to exclude oxygen as molten titanium will not be able to bond with titanium oxide so no welding takes place. Same for all metals but we have developed different methodology.

The two daftest applications I can think of, off hand, are exhaust fasteners and brake line banjo bolts. But no doubt the aftermarket gannets will think up a few more to make a crust on. Sadly, having little or no engineering knowledge, ability or conscience, they usually have no idea of, and no care for, the potential problems they create.

Anyhow we should not be concerned if BMW or others use black paint or copper looking coating on the disc pad backing plates, they are all mild steel and will work fine. And a little copper lube just may stop the squeal. But we should not bet too heavily on it as the cause can be in the metallurgy of the disc material.
 
HMarc said:
I checked, and we don't block ntlworld.com after all, so it must be on your end.

Do you block "ntl.com" perhaps? I've not sure why my ISP would filter outgoing mail, but I'm going to contact them anyway and ask if that's the case. Probably due to a spoofed spam, as you say.

I checked my gmail account, but nothing from you there...

That's because I hadn't sent it yet, oops! I've now mailed you at the gmail address! :)
 
No pics!

I`ve dug this very useful thread up to assist me in my rear pad removal for cleaning & maintenance & there`s no pics only little red X`s :(
Anyone help on this? Mouse?

Cheers

Lee
 
EBC gold coloured pads are the "HH" pads - I used to use them on the front of my Tigers because the improvement in brake performance over standard pads was considerable - ( they only had two-piston sliding calipers).
The Brembos on the GS are much better!

Phil
 
I'm confused by some of the things mentioned in the 'how to change 1200gs brake pads' piece:

...change the rear pads, which were pretty much worn out after about 5000 miles. I think this early death is partly due to the linked brakes...
Does the 1200GS have linked brakes?

Next, remove the pad locating pin and the pads. Clean the caliper and pistons gently (I use a stiff nylon brush, never use a wire brush or abrasive paper on the pistons as they are made of nylon)

Nylon pistons? Wouldn't there be a melting issue? My 1982 K100RS has rubber boots on the pistons - do the latest offerings from Brembo have these?

Dave D.
 
quote

Does the 1200GS have linked brakes?

On the "BMW Motorrad Integral ABS" version - Yes!

I've spoken to a couple of people who reported rear pad life of under 1500 miles on their bikes with this system .

Phil
 


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