Brakes !

[Littledumptruck]

I've Had a bit of a search to see if I can find the answer, but haven't found it, so ill have to ask.

I'm giving my 850 a pretty major service, it all needs doing. Valves done, All oils done, onto brakes.

Cleaned calipers up, new pads up front, come to fluid change, and I only seem to have one bleed nipple. The left is fine, I've bleed new fluid through and seems fine, but the right caliper doesn't have what I recognise as a bleed nipple. Instead it has quiet a large fitting of some sort. It's about 15mm diameter and 30mm tall and has a small, 5mm hex in the top. Any ideas what it is? Should I change it for a normal bleed nipple. No ABs btw! didn't want to play with it until I know what it is.

Second Q, rear pads are shot, barely any material left. New pads are EBC HH's, but one is thicker than the other. Being asymmetrical I can't fit them anything other than the one way, but I don't recall ever having odd thicknessess before?

 

[Ian J Hartley]

It sounds like the BMW filler adapter. The only picture I can find is Here

http://users.rcn.com/dehager/service/service_abs3.pdf.

Top of page 4.

 

[Grizzly]

Remove It

As you suggest, remove it and replace it with a bleed nipple as per the other side. There's a similar arrangement on the end of the remote bleed point for the clutch - it also can be replaced with a bleed nipple.

Cheers..........................Grizzly

 

[Littledumptruck]

Thanks Ian, that's it. So I need to find a 10mm bleed nipple then.

 

[Ugly Cow]

They should be a slight difference in thickness as it is a sliding caliper.

 

[Riceburner]

Second Q, rear pads are shot, barely any material left. New pads are EBC HH's, but one is thicker than the other. Being asymmetrical I can't fit them anything other than the one way, but I don't recall ever having odd thicknessess before?

As said above by Ugly Cow, the two pads are different thicknesses on a sliding caliper fitting.

The reason for this is so that the pad on the "open" side of the caliper (nearer the wheel, but actually easier to see) wears to the limit marks before the hidden pad does.

Often the "thin" pad will have a hole or two in the back-plate, and a depression in the back of the pad material, so that the wear limit is displayed by the disc showing through the holes in the pad back-plate. The theory obviously is that this will happen before the "hidden" pad wears to the back-plate and you change them before doing any damage to the disc.

 

[Littledumptruck]

Fitted the new rear pads earlier today, and so far all looks fine, need to ride to check though. With the new fronts and rears, now seems like there all binding a bit, but I'm hoping it's just they need to bed into the old discs. The calipers are all free, all pistons move nicely, all freshly greased up etc.

But this front bleeder thingy... Tried to undo it earlier and it really feels like its gonna shear off, and I can't get the centre out either.

My mates borrowing the bike Fri for a week, can't risk shearing it off, haven't got time to have to mess about drilling out the remains etc...... So I'll leave it be for now.

Should a dealer have swapped it at the first annual service? How can any of annuals have been done properly with it in place?

 

[Ian J Hartley]

But this front bleeder thingy... Tried to undo it earlier and it really feels like its gonna shear off, and I can't get the centre out either.

if your talking about the filler adapter, you only have to remove the small grub screw in the centre, so you can fit a 10mm bleed nipple. You don't have to remove the whole thing. If you ever get the grub screw out, and look inside you will see that there is a ball bearing at the base which acts as a check valve. This is so the dealer can fit and remove their equipment without compromising the brake system.

Should a dealer have swapped it at the first annual service? How can any of annuals have been done properly with it in place?

They would have removed the grub screw, fitted their Equipment and once completed refitted the grub screw as per their work instructions.

 

[Littledumptruck]

Thanks Ian, I'll have another go at the cap tonight.

Took bike for wee ride round the block last night, and brakes seem fine.

Need to have another go at TB set up though

 

[Ian J Hartley]

But this front bleeder thingy... Tried to undo it earlier and it really feels like its gonna shear off

Bit worrying that statement.

I hope you have got a spanner on the filler adapter assemble to support it as you try and remove the grub screw. It is the approved method and might help. Also a Hex socket is better than an Hex key, as keys tend to flex.

 

[Ian J Hartley]

Correction to my last. It might be a Torx grub screw, only mine is so beat up it's hard to tell.

 

[Littledumptruck]

Bit worrying that statement.

I hope you have got a spanner on the filler adapter assemble to support it as you try and remove the grub screw. It is the approved method and might help. Also a Hex socket is better than an Hex key, as keys tend to flex.

yeh, Know what you mean.

I did have a quick go with an allan key, whilst holding the body part with grips . Yeh I know, but, the trouble is the flats on the body are in a position now that won't allow an open end spanner on unless I either turn it about 60-90 degrees or disconnect the brake line!! Don't fancy either at the moment.

I'll try again later with a 5mm bit, but again will have to hold it with grips!! But I aint going too far with it, it can wait till my mate gets back. Test ride last night showed brakes are working fine, just wanted to bleed fresh fluid though that caliper to complete the set.

Once mateys back I may attack it a bit more, maybe even get a s/h caliper along with some braided lines.