Broken fuel pump regulator - wanted - please

Well it's not like that on the newer bikes. Its a smaller connector. But there's nothing wrong with using the same connector in more than one place - hence my confusion.
 
Well it's not like that on the newer bikes. Its a smaller connector. But there's nothing wrong with using the same connector in more than one place - hence my confusion.

They changed the plug / socket at the back in about 2006. Previously the 1100 / 1150 leads that could be used to add extra accessory sockets could be used on the 1200. Later 1200's can't use the older lead :( unless you chop the end off and attach it to a centech (or similar) fuse box, or add a fuse and go direct to the battery.
 
They changed the plug / socket at the back in about 2006. Previously the 1100 / 1150 leads that could be used to add extra accessory sockets could be used on the 1200. Later 1200's can't use the older lead :( unless you chop the end off and attach it to a centech (or similar) fuse box, or add a fuse and go direct to the battery.


Aha... could be useful for an retro fit as the new socket wiring is a bit puny. :thumb2
 
Controller bypass

My controller failed about a week ago:blast, bought a new unit and hey presto.
From what I can make out the bike starts up at 100% pump efficiency and then cuts back to 80%?
Is this purely to prevent filter changes? Why not just fit the fuel filter outside the tank?
I am in the process of stripping the old controller for the connectors to rig up a bypass in case of another failure.
There was zero corrosion by the way, even under the resin on the controller.
 
My controller failed about a week ago:blast, bought a new unit and hey presto.
From what I can make out the bike starts up at 100% pump efficiency and then cuts back to 80%?
Is this purely to prevent filter changes? Why not just fit the fuel filter outside the tank?
I am in the process of stripping the old controller for the connectors to rig up a bypass in case of another failure.
There was zero corrosion by the way, even under the resin on the controller.

You are right about the 100% to 80% drop.

As to the reason :nenau
 
There was zero corrosion by the way, even under the resin on the controller.

Same here. There was some fluffy corrosion on the upper surface of the unit (on the cooling fins, th ebit syou can see when it's fitted) but no sign of any corrosion or water ingress to the unit itslef when I cut away the bottom of the unit. Makes me seriously doubt that the failure was caused by water at all, and perhpas just a poorly designed, "unfit for purpose" unit.
 
I'm no expert, BUT, when you feed in full power to the controller and it reduces it to 80%, then that 20% is soaked up by the electronics in the controller, which produces heat, which is supposed to be dissipated by the fins. They are not working well enough and the unit overheats and fails?
 


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