California 3 carb. icing / fuel starvation?

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Out on the bike Sunday, after about 4 miles at 80mph.The bike started to feel bogged down, I pulled over and stopped. Talked to my mate, told him what was happening. Thumbed the starter, all was OK.Confused

Later on in the day, after reaching 7,000rpm in 4th gear, it happened again. This time I carried on riding, but at a roundabout, a further 3 or 4 miles up the road it stalled. Thumbed the starter and all was well.

I have 3 theories.

1) Carb icing?

2) fuel starvation, a blocked filter in the tank. I think this is likely, as the other day when I knew the tank was low, I decided to drain the petrol via the R/h carbs fuel line, after about 20 minutes, only about 1/2 a gallon had come out. This was to check to see if the low fuel light was working. (I know I could have connected the terminals on the connector block)
Despite the inside of the tank looking rust free. I was thinking that some of the paintwork from the outside of the tank has been over sprayed to the inside. I have seen this and actually removed a bit of paint with my finger. Maybe this paint is blocking the filter above the tap.

The bike is now full of petrol, so it will have to wait until I've ran it nearly dry, before looking at this.

3) Maybe the fuel lines are buggered? It's been suggested I may have kinked a hose, while putting the tank back on. As it's now full, I'll have to wait till I've ran it nearly dry.

I did replace the air filter the other day, and this was the first run after that. Can't see that causing a problem myself.
 
Check for debris in the tank and also check the carb float heights.
 
The bike was OK at a sustained 80mph before I changed the air filter. So that probably removes the float height from the equation. It might be objecting to being used, as it's only got 26,000 on the clocks. Inside of the tank (what I can see of it) looks remarkably clean.
 
That's a bit like "there's a hole in my bucket". Not sure if I can see if the fuel line is kinked once the tank is lowered.:blast

I'll check anyway.
 
I've not heard of carb icing on a Guzzi but I suppose it's possible :nenau

You're talking about the gauze tubes that go over the tap inlet pipes in the tank aren't you? In line filters may do what you've described but with all that petrol swooshing around in a full tank it's unlikely that both of the gauze tubes would be blocked enough to restrict fuel flow - still no harm in cleaning them next time your tank is empty though.

Simple stuff first so, yeah, check the fuel lines and carb/air filter fit in the inlet hoses I suppose.............

Andres
 
quick / easy way to do a rough check on the filter in the tank;
Remove the fuel line at carb end and blow hard up it!

yes, this does require a modicum of dexterity - unless you like the taste of petrol. :D
I have had to do it to mine a few times.

Though i must admit my first thought was float heights too - or perhaps the vent in the fuel cap being blocked? :nenau
 
Sir has got BOTH fuel taps turned on I presume??
@ 80 mph with a tosser sized person on, it does tend to need the full flow of both taps.....
Also as has been said above, clean taps and filters as they do collect shite over time.....
Also make sure fuel pipe ain't got all soft and soggy and closing in on itself.. damhik about that one .
I've got a paralever tank on my 80g/s and I need both taps on @ 80+ mph, two up ... = 30 mpg !!!!
 
Indeed Proff. As said though - no substitute for removing the tap and screen tube and thoroughly cleaning them.
Most of the taps on the III's and non efi 1100's all seized up. Remotely operated and usually needed replacement.
Definitely one to check.
 
Kinked fuel pipe, just as it left the tap:blast Also a bit soft and soggy on the tap outlet. Cut it off and yipee.

Still easy fix:D I should have realized the fuel was flowing too slow the other day, when I tried to drain the tank.:augie

The fuel tap is a smooth operator.:D
 
these are only the ones you admit to.
Most jobs have worked out OK. Fork stanchion swap went OK. New seals in the slave cylinder for the linked brakes, bike has been quite reliable.There was a saga with the digiplex relay years ago, bike stalled, started, ran funny. Took the cover off the relay, cleaned contacts, all was well.
Air filter is a pig to change!
First oil and filter change, that was a surprise. Lol.
But, dropping the sump goes to show how much old oil remains in the sump after "draining" it. Quite a satisfying job.
Front mudguard, that design🙄 where a spigot on the fork bridge passes through a hole in the mudguard, what a rust trap.
First repair attempt was a rubbish, rust treatment , waxoyl. That didnt cure it. Took the mudguard to work, shot blasted it. Ooh, so many holes. Fibreglassed the underside.Took the mudguard to B and Q, they colour matched it. Still rust free many years later.
Recovered the riders seat, that was fiddly, never thought I'd use my late Dad's upholstery needle, about 8" long. That was more difficult than recovering the GS seats.
Whats strange is that as Ive got older, I've lost my confidence. I overthink too much.
As an apprentice toolmaker in the 1970s , I bought a book about tuning Ford pre crossflow engines. I took the cylinder head off the car, changed the shape of the combustion chambers on a Bridgeport mill, balanced the chamber volumes. Polished the ports, matched the manifolds to the heads. Fitted "Chord" piston rings, new big end shells, while lying under the car inbthe road. Happy days.
Right, I've gone off on a huge tangent, byeee.
Edit.
Although the hobby that I started about 4 years ago, collecting watches.Now reached the stage where Ive repaired a few. Never had that level of patience before, even so, the trick is knowing when to walk away.
 
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