Cam chain tensioner help please

jobjobbed

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I've bought a yr 2000 1150gs it's got the rattle so I thought for my first job I would do something easy, I watched all the YouTube videos and it looks easy 😅.
Throttle body is off and I even managed to loosen the tensioner without butchering my 17mm spanner, but when I lift it up the spring stays in the cylinder so that I can't move it out of the way. I've tried pushing the spring down with a small screwdriver but no joy, am I missing something or am I going the have to remove the A arm to get enough clearance to lift the bolt out?
 
Use a magnet.

No need to remove the Telelever arm, that's for sure.
The spring is stuck in the cylinder (the bit with the 17mm nut on top) so I can't lift it up far enough. On the YouTube videos the spring stays in the engine then once the cylinder is out of the way the spring is fished out with magnet then the piston.
 
The spring is stuck in the cylinder (the bit with the 17mm nut on top) so I can't lift it up far enough. On the YouTube videos the spring stays in the engine then once the cylinder is out of the way the spring is fished out with magnet then the piston.
You should be able to pull the "body" up and out of the hole, and then get a pair of pliers onto the spring onces it's accessible from the side?

For reference I did this last year with my Rockster Ed80, here's some photos - but not sure they'll be any help in this particular edge-case : https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjBNv7s
(and description of the process if it's any help : https://revtothelimit.co.uk/viewtopic.php?p=334117#p334117)
 
I've bought a yr 2000 1150gs it's got the rattle so I thought for my first job I would do something easy, I watched all the YouTube videos and it looks easy 😅.
Throttle body is off and I even managed to loosen the tensioner without butchering my 17mm spanner, but when I lift it up the spring stays in the cylinder so that I can't move it out of the way. I've tried pushing the spring down with a small screwdriver but no joy, am I missing something or am I going the have to remove the A arm to get enough clearance to lift the bolt out?

@jobjobbed, The rattle?? Do you mean the one for about 5 seconds after you start it ??

Screw it all back together CAREFULLY

Drain the oil! (change the oil filter too for a service benchmark! Get a Mahle OC91D it will come with the crush washers! Don't use Hi flo filters they're schite!! )

Change the oil to 3.8 litre of a decent 20W50 and refer to your username !!

When these arrived in the showroom the recommended oil was 20W50, I can't for the life of me work out why people needed to have "better Oil" Which is USUALLY when these complaints started People started using 10W40 or less viscous fully synth

The Correct volume of Oil, Correct grade, changed every 6000 miles (5000 if you wish?) is perfectly adequate Even if you are wringing the beans out of it occasionally

Oh and checking oil ?? When you come in from a decent ride (full operating temp 5 bars on gauge, park the bike on its sidestand and take your gear off, close the garage up or whatever, Allow it about 5 mins to settle and hoik it up on the centre stand in another 30 seconds or so you will have a pretty decent true measure of the oil (there is about a litre in the Oil Cooler!)

People bang on about oil usage, but "usually" they are usually the ones keeping the oil level on full! So only stick in a 1/4 ~1/2 litre when you get to a 1/3 up from the base of the sideglass

Even I, did this with my 1200 But then again they had a BAD rep for losing valve heads and it had already wrecked a head / cylinder before I owned her
But some one said something that made sense! They find their own level! you Have two half litre pain tins flying up and down in there smashing oil into vapour that gets blown about and ends up disappearing by whatever means

So you top up and the cycle continues If you only top up to halfway "usually" the consumption lowers and if you are brave enough allow it to a third up from bottom and in many cases it just seems to have found its own level

I went from about a litre and a half between services to about 300 ~400ml

Good Luck

enjoy the bike
 
You should be able to pull the "body" up and out of the hole, and then get a pair of pliers onto the spring onces it's accessible from the side?

For reference I did this last year with my Rockster Ed80, here's some photos - but not sure they'll be any help in this particular edge-case : https://flic.kr/s/aHBqjBNv7s
(and description of the process if it's any help : https://revtothelimit.co.uk/viewtopic.php?p=334117#p334117)
The spring is NOT stuck in the engine, it seems to be stuck in the camchain tensioner cylinder, when I lift the body of the cam chain tensioner the spring come with it and I then can't get the clearance to remove anything.
 
The spring is NOT stuck in the engine, it seems to be stuck in the camchain tensioner cylinder, when I lift the body of the cam chain tensioner the spring come with it and I then can't get the clearance to remove anything.

Screwdriver into the spring, lever spring down while twist and pulling tensioner cylinder up and sideways, the spring bends
Don’t be gentle.
 
Success, I had a go at it this evening and the tensioner just lifted off from the spring, 24 hours with no tension on it had freed thanks @Steptoe
 
When these arrived in the showroom the recommended oil was 20W50, I can't for the life of me work out why people needed to have "better Oil" Which is USUALLY when these complaints started People started using 10W40 or less viscous fully synth


People bang on about oil usage, but "usually" they are usually the ones keeping the oil level on full!
I worked at a dealer in the middle of the Oilhead era and their service oil was 10w40 Castrol GPS... The backup was GTX... Looking back I don't know whether this was official or just mithering towards customers after "quality" semi synth during the early oil mither era...

It a bit like people wanting racing spec 10w40 for Japanese engines when they were always specced with semi-synth...

The half way up tip is the best one for oilheads...👍

As an automotive worker the total BS spoken about oils and brands is epic...
 
I worked at a dealer in the middle of the Oilhead era and their service oil was 10w40 Castrol GPS... The backup was GTX... Looking back I don't know whether this was official or just mithering towards customers after "quality" semi synth during the early oil mither era...

It a bit like people wanting racing spec 10w40 for Japanese engines when they were always specced with semi-synth...

The half way up tip is the best one for oilheads...👍

As an automotive worker the total BS spoken about oils and brands is epic...

I still use 10W40 mineral in my Rocksters.


(I've only ever blown one up.... :D )
 
20/50 Repsol semi synthetic in my 1150. Used 15/40 fully synthetic for many 10,000’s miles, no issues just a bit of a rattle, Costco stopped selling it so the switch to 20/50 Repsol.

The used 15/40 was excellent for cleaning the bash plate & underside of the engine , the used 20/50 not so much.
 


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