Can anyone reccomend a Swingarm Puller

remove the threaded trunion from the left hand side,
remove the three bolts from the right side ,using a long drift from the left tap it out.
the thread in the centre is only 6mm so if it is a bit seized you will probably just snap any attachment you are using.
 
Do as Mikeyboy said to pull the end caps.

Remove the bearing with a socket set...

Find a socket that sits inside the swingarm against the bearing. Attach an extension to it and hit it with a hammer:thumb

Roger.
 
Thanks guy´s , I thought it was a long sleeve or something running through, if its just the plate , then it should be no problem to remove it.
 
I moved house a few months ago and chucked all my handy bits of metal. :(
I screwed in a cheap M6 bolt and used a crowbar fork end to gently lever it out. A screwdriver shaft across the housing gives a second go if you need it.
 
As Mike says, it's not tight and it's only an M6 thread. The forked pry bar method worked fine on mine. A length of dowel to drift it out from the other side would be as good.
As for adjusting the bearing tension - that DOES need a special tool.
 
Great

As Mike says, it's not tight and it's only an M6 thread. The forked pry bar method worked fine on mine. A length of dowel to drift it out from the other side would be as good.
As for adjusting the bearing tension - that DOES need a special tool.


Thanks a lot . Will probably buy this one.
 
The Haynes book says to torque the bearings then mark the position and tighten the lock nut. If the mark doesn't move you wont need the special tool. Worth a try at least.
 
You need a slide hammer to get it out. I bought the tool for tightening but didnt need it after using the haynes method as it didnt move. I just made my own slide hammer.
 
Mine came out easily with the forked end of a crowbar to pull the M6 screw into the middle of the RHS widget. I kept it as close to square to the screw as possible and it needed very little force. A slide hammer would be overkill.

Thanks for the tip on torquing the bearings. I will probably replace mine (as its apart) though they do feel ok.
 
Why is it overkill ? Mine really needed it to remove it, it took a good few goes as well. I did actually think it wasnt going to shift.
 
Of course a slide hammer will do the job just like a sledge hammer can knock nails in. But an M6 bolt is hardly the toughest thing in the world so its clearly not expected to need much force. I would certainly not be buying a slide hammer on the basis of that one job when a simple forked end pry bar does the job just fine.
 
Like I said, I made one. Proper tool for the job. Levering it out could chip the paint from the frame but i guess as yours is falling off anyway it was not a concern.
 
When I done mine I ran a tap though the thread cos bolt wasn't going all the way in,used a long threaded bar nut n washer with a DIY slide hammer came off p*ss easy :D
 
Like I said, I made one. Proper tool for the job. Levering it out could chip the paint from the frame but i guess as yours is falling off anyway it was not a concern.

I used a piece of thin plywood to protect the frame but force so low it was probably not needed. Same method used to lever the gearbox engine joint at bottom RHS.
 
As Mike says, the easiest option is a long bar from the other side of the bike. A gentle tap with a hammer and the trunnion (or whatever it's called) is out.
I didn't have one long enough but it was so easy to move some wooden dowelling would have done the job.
 
This is all clear now. Thanks a lot explaining these things to me.

At the beginning I tougth there was a bolt running all the way through from left to right. Now I see this is just a thin cap that can be removed with a little pulling force or just as you say a rod and a little tapping . My bike is already 9 years old and even if it looks like new , I would like to pull few things apart , just to be sure its not starting to seize, and or regrease it.
 


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