StumpyFingers
Registered user
How to wire in fog lights or spotlights without chopping the can-bus wiring?
Can anyone tell me
- Thread starter StumpyFingers
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(RIP) Ewan
Registered user
Spotlights
I just wired Wunderlich spotlights onto mine and my wife's F800s. I also didn't want to chop any of the original wiring. Mine came with three wires - Negative to Battery, Positive to Battery (to power the lights) and Positive to be spliced into the headlight power, to activate the solenoid when then headlights are on, and ensure that the spots go out when the ignition is off.
I simply led the solenoid positive to the battery as well, the spots are now always active so you have to remember to turn them off, but the lights could be removed easily from the bikes without any trace of them having been fitted.
Hope that helps?
I just wired Wunderlich spotlights onto mine and my wife's F800s. I also didn't want to chop any of the original wiring. Mine came with three wires - Negative to Battery, Positive to Battery (to power the lights) and Positive to be spliced into the headlight power, to activate the solenoid when then headlights are on, and ensure that the spots go out when the ignition is off.
I simply led the solenoid positive to the battery as well, the spots are now always active so you have to remember to turn them off, but the lights could be removed easily from the bikes without any trace of them having been fitted.
Hope that helps?
(RIP) Ewan
Registered user
Pics
Will do at some stage, but unfortunately i'm in Croatia and my bike is in London right now!
Will do at some stage, but unfortunately i'm in Croatia and my bike is in London right now!
Greggers
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Hiya ...
Use the supply to the pilot light - or if you're inclined you can break into the dip-beam supply - to trigger a 12v switching relay.
Drive your spots from the battery, switched by the relay... they'll go on and off with the dip beam, and the relay trigger coil doesn't draw enough current to upset the canbus ...
Take your time doing it, don't try to feed wires under the panels - it's a lot easier and quicker to take them off and route the cabling properly. Take off the 'tank' cover too, there's a really useful space just behind the air filter housing which is just big enough for a relay or two...
Be sure to fit a main fuse as close to the battery as possible too.
G
Use the supply to the pilot light - or if you're inclined you can break into the dip-beam supply - to trigger a 12v switching relay.
Drive your spots from the battery, switched by the relay... they'll go on and off with the dip beam, and the relay trigger coil doesn't draw enough current to upset the canbus ...
Take your time doing it, don't try to feed wires under the panels - it's a lot easier and quicker to take them off and route the cabling properly. Take off the 'tank' cover too, there's a really useful space just behind the air filter housing which is just big enough for a relay or two...
Be sure to fit a main fuse as close to the battery as possible too.
G
StumpyFingers
Registered user
So as the headlight connector has two spades, could I make a couple of patch leads to splice the relay into, thereby leaving the original wiring original.
chas820
Registered user
You use the headlight wire as a trigger for the relay.The relay must be powered from the battery or the canbus wont like it.
http://www.mypage.tsn.cc/rdd/TT/contents/ELEC/spotwire.gif
I have wired a trigger wire to the side light for the led spots (running lights) and a trigger wire to the main beam wire for the long range Hella ff50`s.I didn`t use a switch as per diagram as i wanted the ff50`s to go on and off with the main beam
http://www.mypage.tsn.cc/rdd/TT/contents/ELEC/spotwire.gif
I have wired a trigger wire to the side light for the led spots (running lights) and a trigger wire to the main beam wire for the long range Hella ff50`s.I didn`t use a switch as per diagram as i wanted the ff50`s to go on and off with the main beam
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