Canbus Question ?

Neil W

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Just a quick question regarding the Canbus system on my 2018 model r1200 gsa, whilst fitting Denali lights I am looking for a switched 12v supply to the relay that powers down as soon as the ignition is switched off .

Initially looked at the GPS power supply or the accessory socket under front of beak but both of them only time out after 5 minutes
( on my 2014 bike they both switched off after 30 seconds ).

Similarly the red/blue wire to the 7.5 amp fuse under the seat which supposedly cuts power as soon as the ignition is turned off is staying live for 2 minutes.

Is the time the can bus stays live after turning off the ignition adjustable ?

Does it vary from bike to bike ?

Being a can bus system I do not want to be splicing into the main loom and am looking for the easiest solution and not really wanting to spend £100's buying a Hex E Can for one set of lights
 
You could take the supply for the relay from the tail light circuit. The extra current needed to power the relay on is minimal.

Maybe you don't want to do this but it's the most practical way.

I've just fitted a Touratech CAN Bus Helper (as it's called) - just a relay with four fused outlets to a friends HP2. I took the "trigger" from the tail light.
 
Is the time the can bus stays live after turning off the ignition adjustable ?

Does it vary from bike to bike ?

Adjustable? Only if you can get into the programming of the system. So, that’s very likely, a no.

The answer to the second, is also a no. Not unless BMW alter it through software updates or in the redesign of later models or editions. Your bike is behaving normally.

You do not need to splice into the main loom, whatever that means. Just take a feed from something that powers up independently and reliably each and every time the ignition is turned on. The rear light is the most common one used; just take care you don’t tap into the rear brake by mistake or your lights will only come on when you brake.


PS There is nothing magical about Canbus. Electricity is always electricity, it doesn’t change. Either it’s there (ie it’s been turned on) or it isn’t.
 
Adjustable? Only if you can get into the programming of the system. So, that’s very likely, a no.

The answer to the second, is also a no. Not unless BMW alter it through software updates or in the redesign of later models or editions. Your bike is behaving normally.

You do not need to splice into the main loom, whatever that means. Just take a feed from something that powers up independently and reliably each and every time the ignition is turned on. The rear light is the most common one used; just take care you don’t tap into the rear brake by mistake or your lights will only come on when you brake.


PS There is nothing magical about Canbus. Electricity is always electricity, it doesn’t change. Either it’s there (ie it’s been turned on) or it isn’t.

On the LC, there is only one light-source in the tail light. For regular rear light the LEDs are cycled and when you hit the brakes the LEDs get a steady on supply, hence that is why, whenever you see a video of the LC taken from rear, the tail light appear to be flashing.

A relay tapped into the tail light may still work, even if the average voltage will be way below 12V, that depends on the relay. But if doing so, I strongly recommend a relay with a diode installed, as the pulsing of the coil in the relay will induce a reactive pulse for every pulse from the tail light, and this 'counter-pulse' may fry the ZFE.

Unless the OP is hot on electrics, the safest bet would be to invest in a CANsmart or similar device and let it take care of business.
 
Unless the OP is hot on electrics, the safest bet would be to invest in a CANsmart or similar device and let it take care of business.

On my previous LC's I spliced in to the loom where the two fuses are - took much less than an hour to do the whole job and that included soldering and wrapping with self-amalgamating tape.

I don't think you need to be 'hot on electrics' to do it.
 
On my previous LC's I spliced in to the loom where the two fuses are - took much less than an hour to do the whole job and that included soldering and wrapping with self-amalgamating tape.

I don't think you need to be 'hot on electrics' to do it.

I am aware of it. But since the OP is installing Denalis, I didn't want to mention it.

Of course, the fact that I have a personal strong disliking to cutting into the wiring harness doesn't help either :aidan
 
Sorted without the need to cut/ splice into the loom, spoke to an auto electrician and suggested using one of these.

A mini blade fuse piggyback that plugs into the 7.5 amp fuse holder and provides a switched supply
 

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Although the hexcan is expensive it absolutely transforms the functionality of the Denali lights, especially if you also add the brake light and is a simple to install, just plug in and jobs a goodun.
 
Sorted without the need to cut/ splice into the loom, spoke to an auto electrician and suggested using one of these.

A mini blade fuse piggyback that plugs into the 7.5 amp fuse holder and provides a switched supply

Not seen those before - good solution.
 
Here is a picture of the pigtail, it takes 2 fuses the first covering the bikes original circuit , the second one is for the power take off .

If the accessory fuse blows the original circuit still functions, if the fuse on the original circuit blows it cuts power to accesssory one, grand total of £3.50 rather than £200 for a cansmart
 

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Why,
With one of those piggyback fuses you could fit a relay and 4 or 6 way fuse box for less than £20
You could run aux lights ,aux sockets,coms and nav from it no prob

True ,but with camsmart you can add extra programmable led tail light (B6) You can adjust brightness with the wonder wheel .It turns off the Aux spot when you use the indicators amd strobes the aux lights when you flash or use the sound bomb horn !:)
 


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