CANbus - Replacing the Socket

[Happyhenry]

I am playing around with the idea of just disconnecting the underseat socket and replacing it with a direct wired fused socket using the same mounting point. There is nothing that I have or want that can be run through the CANbus socket - heated jacket, Optimate, etc.
My GPS is powered from the headstock CANbus socket and my Autocom via a soldered connection to the back of the underseat CANbus socket. I can see no reason not to unplug the socket, remove it, tape up the plug and fit a fused Powerlet socket run direct from the battery. I don't want to have to take a heated jacket lead from a second socket on the beak because the cable will be flapping around in the wind.
I also don't want to have thee or four other cables connected direct to the battery terminals, with bits of plugs and sockets poking out all over the place - too untidy.
The alternative is to find a way of mounting a second, direct wired socket next to the underseat CANbus-powered one.
Has anyone else done either of these things?

 

[beemerboy9]

I used a spare wiring loom extender (converts 1 rear socket into 2 rear sockets) for my R1200RT rear socket to connect to the standard BMW socket. I chopped the other end off, fitted a fuse and wired it to the battery. I use my Optimate on that socket - and the now-redundant spare plug for something else. I am able to run heated jacket and gloves from the front power socket on the RT - I believe it has a higher power rating than the GS.

 

[John Armstrong]

Similar idea. Used a 1150 style extender, chopped the plug off and although it goes through a centec fuse thingy it's effectively a battery connection. Kept the original socket, for the autocom, and made a stainless steel plate that uses the bolts on the Adv pannier rack to locate it. Looks "normal" IMHO and lets me pump up batterys / have a heated jacket etc etc

 

[Phil Clarke]

Thnking of doing the same. I've already got a centec fuse panel which is currently powering my aux lights but I want to power some of those oxford heat pads for the pillion grab handles so my girlfriend has warm hands as well as heated clothing etc. I'm going to put a relay onto the centec panel so that it is only powered up when the ignition is on.

 

[Happyhenry]

I used a spare wiring loom extender (converts 1 rear socket into 2 rear sockets) for my R1200RT rear socket to connect to the standard BMW socket. I chopped the other end off, fitted a fuse and wired it to the battery. I use my Optimate on that socket - and the now-redundant spare plug for something else. I am able to run heated jacket and gloves from the front power socket on the RT - I believe it has a higher power rating than the GS.

Similar idea. Used a 1150 style extender, chopped the plug off and although it goes through a centec fuse thingy it's effectively a battery connection. Kept the original socket, for the autocom, and made a stainless steel plate that uses the bolts on the Adv pannier rack to locate it. Looks "normal" IMHO and lets me pump up batterys / have a heated jacket etc etc

Good ideas both. The post 09/2006 GS underseat socket is a lightweight plastic 5Amp-rated affair (previously they were higher rated sockets but limited by the CANbus-restricted 5A), so if there is going to be any more power going through there I need to change the socket itself.
Looking around for a suitable bracket with two socket holes I have found a Powerlet one that I can adapt. If it works I will 'hang it' from the existing 5A socket and mount a new direct-powered Powerlet socket below the existing one, if you see what I mean.
If it works, pictures will follow!
If not, plan A - just replace the 5A with a direct-powered one and tape-off the loose CANbus end.
HH

 

[John Armstrong]

Looked at the powerlet bit of gold plated platinum (must be for it's cost). Had a bit of thin stainless and less time than would be needed to order one on-line had made it. I'll try and take a piccy tonight so you can see my handywork.

 

[Happyhenry]

Looked at the powerlet bit of gold plated platinum (must be for it's cost). Had a bit of thin stainless and less time than would be needed to order one on-line had made it. I'll try and take a piccy tonight so you can see my handywork.

Blimey John. You don't hang about. I've got no garage, no workshop but the kitchen table (shhh - don't tell!) and no time - so it's the gold plated, black anodised, aircraft grade (wot that?) American 'aluminum' one for me. Plus it should help my carbon fingerprint - or is it the other way around?
I'm a lazy sod really as I've got an 18mm tank cutter and all I need is a bit of suitable metal etc. But I've ordered some bits from the States as it's much cheaper than through Sportouring (Woody's) - usual £ for $ price conversion - and quicker as they'll come straight to me rather than via S Wales.
Looking forward to the pictures.

 

[John Armstrong]

Looking forward to the pictures.

As requested

 

[Happyhenry]

Very neat John.

 

[John Armstrong]

Very neat John.

Thanks, just need to clean the bike

 

[Happyhenry]

Thanks, just need to clean the bike

Looks OK to me

 

[Happyhenry]

Today I was mostly.....

............. installing an additional underseat socket on my GSA. Having been fed up for some time with the Canbus socket's inability to run anything useful (from late '06 on these BMW sockets are very light-duty 5A plastic and cannot safely take any higher load than the Canbus will allow) I decided to fit a direct-wired socket under the seat. I didn't want it on the beak because to run a heated jacket from there means having the cable flapping in the wind.

The choices were - remove the existing one, tape up the end of the loom-socket for it and replace it with a Powerlet socket wired direct to the battery (via fuse). Or add an additional direct-wired socket and keep the Canbus too - my Autocom is powered via soldered connections from the back of the Canbus socket. I decided on the latter.

Armed with a Powerlet Kit PKT-042-12 (socket, plug and rubber cover for the back, wiring, waterproof fuse) and one of their brackets PBR-004 - total cost $63.80 delivered (in under a week), I set about modifying the bracket by cutting off the L-piece and drilling an additional socket hole. I now had a rectanglar piece of black anodised aliminium with two 18mm holes in it.

I unplugged the existing socket and undid the nut on the back. I mounted the bracket on the rear of the existing socket (the front has a locating pip to stop the socket rotating in the frame), put a large aluminium washer on the back (from the Powerlet kit) and replaced the nut, tightening as much as I dared to hold the bracket in place.

The second socket was mounted below the Canbus one and wired to the battery. After a bit of faffing, I decided to mount the second socket's cover 'sideways' due to the restrictions of the bracket dimensions, but actaully because it's easier to access that way around.

I can now charge the battery using my Optimate and run my Gerbing heated jacket without having to have any number of seperate wires connected to the battery and plugs dangling about the place.


The sockets in place.

A blurred shot of the rubber boot over the back of the Powerlet socket.

The waterproof fuse holder zip-tied to the frame abover the battery.

The Optimate plugged in.

 

[shugie]

Interesting, I might do something similar as my BMW heated jacket keeps annoying the canbus socket and I get cold until I can stop and restart the engine (don't fancy it on the move with servo brakes).
Might see if I can find the bits from radiospares, got some ally about that will do for a bracket.