Carbs should / shouldn't I ????????

BegesRus

BegesRus

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1995 R100GSPD - the carb inlet rubbers to cylinder pipes are a bit cracked looking so I thought - replace them before they rupture.

Then I thought why not buy a carb service kit from motorworks and do a complete strip and service (don't think this has been done in it's lifetime)

I quite enjoy a bit of spannering - although i'm sort of below average at it - I'm quick to bodge if all goes pearshaped - - should I attempt this work or not?
p.s. bike runs fine - so if it's not broke etc . . .
 
I replaced all the rubber manifolds & airbox connections to the carbs on my 'new' (to me) R80ST as they looked cracked - bike was running fine tho'. They are fairly thick rubbers and when taking them off it was clear the cracks do not go all the way thru'. Anyhow, probably good to change - but my guess is you would know if they were leaky....

Didn't do a carb kit as they work well - so thought I better leave them alone as I am an enthusiastic, but not very good/patient spannerer :D

Regards,

Jonathan.
 
theschoning said:
I replaced all the rubber manifolds & airbox connections to the carbs on my 'new' (to me) R80ST as they looked cracked - bike was running fine tho'. They are fairly thick rubbers and when taking them off it was clear the cracks do not go all the way thru'. Anyhow, probably good to change - but my guess is you would know if they were leaky....

Didn't do a carb kit as they work well - so thought I better leave them alone as I am an enthusiastic, but not very good/patient spannerer :D

Regards,

Jonathan.
Click to expand...

Aha! Truth will out.
You bought it yourself then?
J'accuse! :rob
 
OK boys - thanks for the advice - motobins at £65 - what a winner - how do they do it?

I checked the carb numbers on my PD -

LHS 94/40/123A
RHS 94/40/124A

Sound familier?

When I check in Clymer there is no such ref given

I'll chat with motobins - matbey they will know

I'll let you know what occurs

Ta
 
Motobins only got a sigle carb LHS and they are not sure if it fits mine?
So back to drawing board
 
Hell's bells.
Wot I think you need is diaphragms, screws for carb tops, float bowl gasket, floats, needles, rubbers, fuel pipes.
Even that is ott. Try opening the diaphragm screws and if you can move them, no need to order new.
Floats and needles - maybe ott.
Diaphragms, gasket and rubbers - worth it, but don't let them sell you bits of water hose.
bin
 
Hi

I bet the others have been waiting for me to join in as they know I am a Bing carb enthusiast.

1. Dont buy the Motobins carbs. They are the wrong carb for your bike.

2. Why not recondition the carbs yourself? It isnt that hard. For comprehensive instructions see http://www.buchanan1.net/carb_rebuild.shtml

3. Very important: only do I carb at a time, dont disassemble the butterfly valve and be gentle. Carb parts are mostly made of brass which is soft.

Have fun!

Steve
 
SJRoome said:
3. Very important: only do I carb at a time, dont disassemble the butterfly valve and be gentle. Carb parts are mostly made of brass which is soft.
Click to expand...

Good advice.

I had perished rubbers in a couple of carbs so had to remove my butterflys. Pain in the arse to get seated again properly and the threads pulled out of one of the bars when I undid them needing a replacement.
 
SJRoome said:
Hi

I bet the others have been waiting for me to join in as they know I am a Bing carb enthusiast.

1. Dont buy the Motobins carbs. They are the wrong carb for your bike.

2. Why not recondition the carbs yourself? It isnt that hard. For comprehensive instructions see http://www.buchanan1.net/carb_rebuild.shtml

3. Very important: only do I carb at a time, dont disassemble the butterfly valve and be gentle. Carb parts are mostly made of brass which is soft.

Have fun!




Steve
Click to expand...
SJRoome

I am having problems with one of my bing carburator is leaking while the bike is running! I have tried a few things my self like new needle new float and new bowl gasket with no luck. As I am not very confident doing this on my own if I buy a kit will you help me rebuild the thing and then tune it?
 
Rob Farmer said:
Good advice.

.... and the threads pulled out of one of the bars when I undid them needing a replacement.
Click to expand...

Me too. I seem to remember reading that the butterfly screws are peened to stop them coming loose - needless to say I acquired this info after I rooted the butterfly shaft by undoing the screws. :blast

In the next life I hope to be a wee little bloke with no strength -the amount of things I have stuffed by "just a half a turn more' :( Most blokes when finding resistance in a butterfly screw would stop and wonder why -NOT plough on regardless :confused:

Having said all that -rebuild the carbs yourself it's not that hard especially if you heed the advice in this thread. Find a nice clean area (kitchen table if you are game :eek), clean rag, can of carb cleaner and a source of compressed air. Use screwdrivers that fit the screws properly! If you can't undo it -STOP and ask advice :thumb
 
Yo cm.
rebuild seems a bit daunting first time. Actually fun!
Easy access, German built,
Im in west london, if you feel you need any support!

Ride safe BB
 
YO YO Bob thanks for your offer.
I am worried that I will mess it up.
Next week I am going to order the overhaul kit and the Bing carburator manual from motorworks.
If I need any help I ll let you know. Where abouts in West?
 
Send to Steve!

John Armstrong said:
Or remove the carbs and send them for a holiday to:

http://www.scriminger.co.uk/10380/info.php?p=4&pno=0

£100 for an overhaul including ultrasonic cleaning plus whatever bits are needed IIRC.
Click to expand...


+1!!!
:thumb2

You either can or can't do this; a half hearted approach is no good. If the butterfly shaft o-ring is worn, the carb will suck air and be difficult to balance, and you need a special peening tool for the small brass screws on the shaft (along with a modicum of experience at doing it). Soooo, I would go the whole hog and send them to Steve Scriminger. They will come back as new with the peace of mind that they are good for a loooooong time.
Gentle advice from someone who has "been there.."

Regards
Eng
:thumb2
 
Hi

The Bing Carbs are very prone to leaking, but a full rebuild is not the answer as you may introduce other problems. Hold onto your money for now and try the following.

1. Turn off both fuel taps. Remove the float bowl from the offending carb. Check whether there is any rust in the float bowl (fine brown powder). If there is fit new fuel filters. Lift up the float gently with one finger. Turn on the nearest fuel tap and gently lower the float until petrol comes out. Then gently raise the float until petrol stops flowing. At this point the top of the float should be parallel with the carb body.

2. If it isnt try step 1 a couple of times. The petrol will flush any loose debris off the tip of the float needle valve. If the height is still wrong gently adjust it by bending the tag that pushes against the float needle valve.

3. With the float height correct does the carb still drip when you repeat 1? If not replace the float bowl then see if the problem is solved.

4. If the problem is still there the next step is to remove the carb, remove the pin holding the floats in and inspect and clean the tip of the float needle. Use injector and carb cleaner spray available from a car factors and a clean lint free cloth. Since you have taken out the float needle you should also take the opportunity to clean the tube that the needle sits in again using carb cleaner and cloth. Carb cleaner is nasty stuff so do it in a well ventilated area and dont get it in your eyes.

5. Put back together and see if the problem is fixed. If not the next step is to replace the float needle. I gather you have already done this.

6. If setting the correct float height, cleaning and replacing the float needle have'nt solved the problem then we are into more difficult territory so post again.

Good Luck!

Steve
 
Steve /Bob Thank you both for your replies

Steve I am finding deposits on the float bowls as you mentioned. Also the the Tank it looks as it has been painted from the inside with paint of brown colour and now that flakes.... it doesnt look like rust as such but I dont know what it is either maybe if I try and post a few pictures will help. I have changed the floats and the needle and I have tried to adjust the float as you recommended but still I will get the leaks. the Thing that bugs me is that I only get this leaks grom the right hand side (as you sit) carb and never from the left. I have put installed new inline filters too but still.
If I take out the carb would I need to re-tune the carbs again when I put it back or does it keep the adjustments.
Thank you guys for your replies If I solve this problem I will be the happies BMW owner so please HELP.
 
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