Carburetor refurbs in Yorkshire?
- Thread starter Andy_E
- Start date
Can you do it yourself andy ???
Parts must be readily available I presume, and if you strip it down yourself, take notes and pictures for the rebuild.
Just a thought !!
Parts must be readily available I presume, and if you strip it down yourself, take notes and pictures for the rebuild.
Just a thought !!
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Carburettor setup, jets & needles
It is possible to re-jet the Teikei carb using Kiehin jets. What to use depends on what year your TTR is - although a recent thread on the Yahoo forum has cast some doubt on what the standard jets are so beware! The information I was given some time ago was that early TTRs were 142 main jet and 48 pilot jet though from about 96/97 the main jet was a 147 and pilot was a 50. ("50" pilot jet is 43F-14342-25-00, "54" pilot jet is 43F-14342-27 and presumably the "52" pilot jet is 43F-14342-26-00 - about £10 each in UK). At least one owner has a 96 Open Enduro with 137 main and 50 pilot jets - very confusing! However, something definite I hope is that the blue TTRs are shown as having 137 main and 50 pilot on this online microfiche .
Johnny Davies TTR (see above) was a later model so he found a local carb specialist that did Kiehin carbs, took in his main jet and needle jet and they tried a standard round Kiehin main jet and it fitted perfectly. They measured his original jet and it was 1.47mm (apparently different makes of jets don't always mean that the no. on the jet is the size in mm) and suggested trying a 148mm, 150mm, and 152mm (Kiehin). Johnny tried them all (about £3.00 each) 148 no difference, 150 spot on, 152 too rich (like running with the choke on). Johnny has left the snorkel off the air box and has the needle on the standard position. He is looking at different needles at the moment, also he has left the mixture screw at 3.5 turns out compared to standard 2.25. The firm he used is:
Allens Performance Ltd, Unit B9, Moorbridge Road, Bingham, Notts, NG13 8GG - tel. no. 01949 836733, fax. 01949 836734
You should get better power throughout the range.
Yamaha part numbers for jets as follows (thanks to Mike Stoddard):
288-14329-71 #142
4GY-14329-73 #145
4GY-14329-74 #147
Bike Bandit in the US can supply Keihin and Mikuni carb jets. See also Sudco
Karl Goellner says "The small Mikuni hex sized ones don't come in half sizes but just full sizes however the large round ones ( N100.604 )do come in half sizes like (142.5). I used this type and know for sure that they will fit although it's a pretty tight fit. With the stock exhaust and only the silencer removed (still has the spark arrestor screen), the large
type Mikuni #140 jet with the needle in the stock position works great at 600 ft. elevation. It adds a little more punch for about $5.00. Also, I've done nothing to the air box, it's completely stock and unaltered."
More information on personalising your TTR and "uncorking" some power - see this posting on Thumpertalk at http://tinyurl.com/mvntl which has some useful pics and links courtesy of Aaron Cooper.
Problems with carburation after long-term storage & non-use. Geoff Denham" says: I have a 2001 TTR250 (North American version). I had cold starting and idle problems. I found out that the previous owner had stored the bike for 2 years without draining the fuel from the carb. I then discovered why he hadn't drained the carb - the Philips head of the drain screw was stripped such that no screw driver could turn it. The jets in the carb. were blocked up with residue from the evaporated fuel, and the throttle pump diaphragm had become hard (long term storage). I removed the carb. from the engine and had it overhauled by the Yamaha dealer. In most cases it maybe just gummed up jets. Check to see if you can drain the carb. If your drain screw's head is stripped, have the carb. overhauled. Removing the carb can be quite a big job if the air box is removed first. If you do this, take careful note of the connections and routing of the various rubber hoses connected to the carb. Its a good idea to thoroughly clean the inside of the hoses and their one way valves etc. You should download the Yamaha service manual, I found it very helpful. I should have added, after I had removed the carb, I also removed the rubber intake manifold and refitted it with an application of a high temperature sealing compound. All this effort was rewarded with new bike starting, idle, and general good manners. As in this case of my low mileage bike, such results assume there are no other significant engine problems. if you're having problems starting, it might be time to check your valve clearances. 25 April 2007
Click here for further information from James_AZ_USA.
Carb drain screw. The Philips-style head on these strip out easily so use the best-fitting screwdriver you have. Make sure that you have the carb body held firm so that you can put pressure on the screwdriver to prevent it jumping out of the slots. If it goes wrong, the part number for a new one is 14T-14104-00-00.
Carburettor setup, jets & needles
It is possible to re-jet the Teikei carb using Kiehin jets. What to use depends on what year your TTR is - although a recent thread on the Yahoo forum has cast some doubt on what the standard jets are so beware! The information I was given some time ago was that early TTRs were 142 main jet and 48 pilot jet though from about 96/97 the main jet was a 147 and pilot was a 50. ("50" pilot jet is 43F-14342-25-00, "54" pilot jet is 43F-14342-27 and presumably the "52" pilot jet is 43F-14342-26-00 - about £10 each in UK). At least one owner has a 96 Open Enduro with 137 main and 50 pilot jets - very confusing! However, something definite I hope is that the blue TTRs are shown as having 137 main and 50 pilot on this online microfiche .
Johnny Davies TTR (see above) was a later model so he found a local carb specialist that did Kiehin carbs, took in his main jet and needle jet and they tried a standard round Kiehin main jet and it fitted perfectly. They measured his original jet and it was 1.47mm (apparently different makes of jets don't always mean that the no. on the jet is the size in mm) and suggested trying a 148mm, 150mm, and 152mm (Kiehin). Johnny tried them all (about £3.00 each) 148 no difference, 150 spot on, 152 too rich (like running with the choke on). Johnny has left the snorkel off the air box and has the needle on the standard position. He is looking at different needles at the moment, also he has left the mixture screw at 3.5 turns out compared to standard 2.25. The firm he used is:
Allens Performance Ltd, Unit B9, Moorbridge Road, Bingham, Notts, NG13 8GG - tel. no. 01949 836733, fax. 01949 836734
You should get better power throughout the range.
Yamaha part numbers for jets as follows (thanks to Mike Stoddard):
288-14329-71 #142
4GY-14329-73 #145
4GY-14329-74 #147
Bike Bandit in the US can supply Keihin and Mikuni carb jets. See also Sudco
Karl Goellner says "The small Mikuni hex sized ones don't come in half sizes but just full sizes however the large round ones ( N100.604 )do come in half sizes like (142.5). I used this type and know for sure that they will fit although it's a pretty tight fit. With the stock exhaust and only the silencer removed (still has the spark arrestor screen), the large
type Mikuni #140 jet with the needle in the stock position works great at 600 ft. elevation. It adds a little more punch for about $5.00. Also, I've done nothing to the air box, it's completely stock and unaltered."
More information on personalising your TTR and "uncorking" some power - see this posting on Thumpertalk at http://tinyurl.com/mvntl which has some useful pics and links courtesy of Aaron Cooper.
Problems with carburation after long-term storage & non-use. Geoff Denham" says: I have a 2001 TTR250 (North American version). I had cold starting and idle problems. I found out that the previous owner had stored the bike for 2 years without draining the fuel from the carb. I then discovered why he hadn't drained the carb - the Philips head of the drain screw was stripped such that no screw driver could turn it. The jets in the carb. were blocked up with residue from the evaporated fuel, and the throttle pump diaphragm had become hard (long term storage). I removed the carb. from the engine and had it overhauled by the Yamaha dealer. In most cases it maybe just gummed up jets. Check to see if you can drain the carb. If your drain screw's head is stripped, have the carb. overhauled. Removing the carb can be quite a big job if the air box is removed first. If you do this, take careful note of the connections and routing of the various rubber hoses connected to the carb. Its a good idea to thoroughly clean the inside of the hoses and their one way valves etc. You should download the Yamaha service manual, I found it very helpful. I should have added, after I had removed the carb, I also removed the rubber intake manifold and refitted it with an application of a high temperature sealing compound. All this effort was rewarded with new bike starting, idle, and general good manners. As in this case of my low mileage bike, such results assume there are no other significant engine problems. if you're having problems starting, it might be time to check your valve clearances. 25 April 2007
Click here for further information from James_AZ_USA.
Carb drain screw. The Philips-style head on these strip out easily so use the best-fitting screwdriver you have. Make sure that you have the carb body held firm so that you can put pressure on the screwdriver to prevent it jumping out of the slots. If it goes wrong, the part number for a new one is 14T-14104-00-00.
Thanks, it's something I could attempt myself (and it would be an attempt) and have already spent a day or so messing around and getting drenched in petrol. I'm tempted to post it to someone, give them money and let it be their problem! It's an old carb I picked up from fleabay for a few quid so I'm not averse to spending a little on it to get it done properly.
There are a few forums for the TTR, what about trying them ???
Where abouts are you. ?
Where abouts are you. ?
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