I rode to Greece through the Balkans on it last year and frankly Albania was pretty much pot-holes and no tarmac all the way (not unlike ChrisKelley's shot of Roimania). My only worry is that having done the BMW experience in South Wales on one of theirs (where I was amazed at what these bikes will go up and down and through) I'm going to venture further then I should. But as you say replacing a cast wheel is loads cheaper than buying a spoked wheel!
Would anyone recommend any other mods or protection. I have lower crash bars. I think I'll get some grippier footrests.
I took my bike down to the Sahara and then over to Mount Ararat in Eastern Turkey earlier this year (14000 miles and all kinds of shite roads). I used the following mods (which all worked really well):
Hepco and Becker engine bars
Fastway footpegs (I highly recommend these)
Jessie alloy plate (sits in place of rear seat)
An alloy plate to sit on the rear rack
Divers bag to sling over the back with 2 x bungees (camping gear, etc).
Touratech bag to go under rear rack (for extra tools and used a mini travel pad lock)
Alloy GPS holder to mount the GPS in the middle of the screen area and within direct view.
Touratech tank bag
Touratech headlight protector
Reno oil cooler grill
Piece of rubber-backed carpet tile cut ot size to keep the crap off the rear shock and battery area - worked a treat, stayed in place nicely and cost nothing.
As you say for the Balkans, many many miles of potholes, gravel, etc and I suffered no dings in the cast rims (and the vario panniers didn't fall off as has been implied could happen on many posts in this forum). But I was careful and didn't get too close to cars lest a big hole appear suddenly.
Cheers, Nordkapper