Centech AP-1 Power Fuse Panel

[Rugged Path]

Instead of attaching wires direct to the battery or splicing into loom connections on the bike, I am looking into spending £35 on the above gadget.
Has anybody fitted one? And if so, is it worth the cost?

 

[trotsky]

Well I haven't fitted one but I just bought one from nippynorm. They are designed to act as a proper aux fusebox, taking a feed direct from the bike positive and negatives.

They handle 60A max and I'm planning to wire it straight into the battery through some meaty wiring. I just dropped by Halfords to get some 720W amplifier wiring gear from their audio bit (I guess you won't be doing that in Saudi ) - I should have got it cheaper in a local car spares place but I was passing and needed a few other bits... I could have gone with a lower amperage feed for what I want to do but the engineer in me blanches at not putting it together to meet full specification.

It's going to make the connections easier but it's going to have to go into the tool tray in a way that leaves a space for a potential Autocom. Once I've done that, and made some grommet protected holes in the tool tray, then wiring the lights and horn I have hanging around are going to be nice and easy, and certainly safer.

All in all, probably worth the money if you want to be (a) tidy and (b) an owner of safely fused accessories.

 

[Global Rider]

Blue Sea Fuse Boxes

Stop and have a look at these much nicer, very compact fuse boxes. They run about US$20 to US$25 each depending where you get them.

Blue Sea 5025 with Negative Bus

Blue Sea 5028 without Negative Bus

See the complete Blue Sea product line.

 

[simonm]

It's going to make the connections easier but it's going to have to go into the tool tray in a way that leaves a space for a potential Autocom.

Does it fit ??

I've seen pics where people have fitted them on top of the airbox - always thought too much chance of water getting to it there.

 

[trotsky]

Does it fit ??

I've only placed it in to check but it looks like it will. I'm ready to replace the mounting feet if it is too tight a fit. I wouldn't put it anywhere unprotected, it's a bare circuit board and it's got screw in connectors, but Maplin sell a nice little waterproof mounting box that would take it very neatly if I have to mount it elsewhere.

 

[zerocool]

Where is the best place to take a feed for a relay?

Im presuming a sidelight or similar would provide enough feed to activate a relay for this kit?

Is it worth getting the wiring kit from nippy normans??? or should I just buy what I need a build it myself. Not sure on costings but my Halfrauds trade card will bring pricing down to being Halfords.

I understand that the kit uses a "low power" relay that takes less oompfh to click over.

 

[zerocool]

Well in answer to my own question....

100 amp relay was fine running off the sidelight.

I would have got a 60 or 70 amp relay but they use a stupid spade connetor which it is only possible to get the spade connectors with a maximum cable diameter or 6.something mm. This is a problem since the 70 amp cabling is 8mm thick.

So I was forced to go for a higher powered relay to support ring terminal connections instead of spade connectors.

This meant a minimum of 100 amps. Annoying eh???
Still im happy with the install and the HUGE relay which was housed neatly where the ABS should be.

vehicle wiring products (google it) did a fine job of sorting all the kit I need for slightly less than the centech relay cost plus I can safely say that my wiring wont fry at full capacity which I cant honestly say that about the OE curcuit.

 

[Carl]

Well in answer to my own question....

100 amp relay was fine running off the sidelight.

I would have got a 60 or 70 amp relay but they use a stupid spade connetor which it is only possible to get the spade connectors with a maximum cable diameter or 6.something mm. This is a problem since the 70 amp cabling is 8mm thick.

So I was forced to go for a higher powered relay to support ring terminal connections instead of spade connectors.

This meant a minimum of 100 amps. Annoying eh???
Still im happy with the install and the HUGE relay which was housed neatly where the ABS should be.

vehicle wiring products (google it) did a fine job of sorting all the kit I need for slightly less than the centech relay cost plus I can safely say that my wiring wont fry at full capacity which I cant honestly say that about the OE curcuit.

Glad you got the Centech installed ok. I agree its a good idea to use the correct spec cable for the maximum current draw, but I would avoid pulling 70A thats a massive 840 W @ 12v then you have the rest of the bike electronics to factor in. The alternator only generates around 50A at 4000rpm.

 

[Bikerbrady]

I have myself fitted a bluesea with negative bus see below

more details here on another thread http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=137370

Even Mr Mr Wassell was impressed with my handywork !!!

 

[zerocool]

the individual fuses will be totaled to ensure it wont go above 60w!

The centech supposedly only supports that much so anything more i guess it will just melt.

alot that will be attached to there will only run for short birsts anyway. Nautilus horn for example.

 

[Brian O]

Instead of attaching wires direct to the battery or splicing into loom connections on the bike, I am looking into spending £35 on the above gadget.
Has anybody fitted one? And if so, is it worth the cost?

IMHO it is worth fitting some sort of additional fuse panel if you intend fitting ancillary devices to your bike. I bent a piece of ally and fitted one end to the top of the airbox and the other slides under the rubber belt which secures the battery.
On the back of the plate is the relay which is activated from a swithed live in the main fusebox (blue/green wire springs to mind but may not be correct)

Brian