Centre Stand

[Hexme]

After damaging my hip a while ago my bike has been sitting in the garage, got it out for my ride to work last week and noticed how corroded it was.....

I'm well aware of corrosion on the centre stand but wasn't expecting it to be so bad as I regularly cover the bike in ACF.

Am going to remove it, for re-painting, any tips for taking it off or is it quite straight forward with the springs under tension?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

 

[Sgt Bilco]

After damaging my hip a while ago my bike has been sitting in the garage, got it out for my ride to work last week and noticed how corroded it was.....

I'm well aware of corrosion on the centre stand but wasn't expecting it to be so bad as I regularly cover the bike in ACF.

Am going to remove it, for re-painting, any tips for taking it off or is it quite straight forward with the springs under tension?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Remember teh centre stand get a lot of stone chips etc as it's very exposed so no amount of ACF50 will stop that. Not much you can do about it but I use an aluminium guard help on with P clips.

I'd take it off and use black hammerite which is probably tougher that standard paint and powder coating. Maybe protect it with some helicopter tape?

Take care on and off as the springs are under tension but there is nothing difficult about getting it on and off.

 

[RickSkye]

Hammerite make a water based metal primer which i have found to be very good, then a coat of smoothrite. I put a couple of coats on the side that facing the stones.

 

[Bendy toy]

The springs are held by an M6 screw. Unwind that to release spring tension.
The pivots have special bushes fitted from the inside. Stop them turning with an adjustable spanner.
Get the stand grit blasted and zinc metal sprayed. Then etch prime and paint. Split rubber hose can be slipped over the centre bar to protect from stones.
Powder coat is ok but only if it has a conducive zinc primer.


Sent somehow.

 

[DrFarkoff]

Just paint it in place Seriously you are giving yourself loads of grief for something that really isn't closely inspected

80 grit should get most of the visible scabby paint rust off

Then get a small tin of "galvafroid" (Cold galvanizing paint)

Warm the stand with a heat gun and apply a coat of galvafroid

and then after a very light sand with say 400 grit (To remove any ridges and runs)

Warm it again an spray half a dozen light coats of spray smoothrite black hammerite I am sure I saw a satin version a while back

Jobs done and should be a good un

 

[transalper44]

Don't use Helicopter tape, as it will melt when the stand is up, as it sits next the exhaust. Do as suggested above, sand, paint, leave. Then six month late, do it again !

 

[Hexme]

Cheers for the advice guys, most appreciated.

 

[oldnfat]

I have helicopter tape on mine now for a few months having done the same and resprayed with Hammerite. Heat from the exhaust doesn't seem to have affected it.

 

[Greenman14]

Black duct tape? Otherwise repaint twice a year.

 

[KP100]

I am just after giving mine its 3rd coat of matt black. Got a few coats of etch primmer yesterday. Easy to take back down to metal with a mouse sander.

Getting the bolts out was easy. 22mm spanner and a 5mm allen key. The spring on the other hand is quite tight. Took a bit or levering to get off. I think the orignal paint was crap. Even bits that are not exposed to chipping were rusty. I think a good home paint job will last longer than the stock paint job. I might give it a clear coat also.

 

[Bendy toy]

They look great newly painted but rust carries on from the pitted areas.
I was quoted £80 to have a car back axle grit blasted and hot zinc metal sprayed. A centre stand would be a great deal less. Etch prime the zinc and paint with your favourite then protect the stone chip areas as you feel fit.


Sent somehow.

 

[Bear]

The stand on my '06 model GS came off easily enough but putting it back on needed two of us and a rope looped through the back wheel and twisted tight with a screwdriver to the get the boltholes to line up and the fasteners in. I'm now looking at doing the same thing on a twin-cam and it will definitely be painted in-situ, probably with Hammerite once the rust is abraded off.

 

[alex_rsa]

A piece of wire looped round the end of the spring and a ratchet strap through the wire loop and attached to the front of the bike will pull the spring into position easily. There is a technique of stretching the spring using 2p pieces...

 

[Mistacat]

The stand on my '06 model GS came off easily enough but putting it back on needed two of us and a rope looped through the back wheel and twisted tight with a screwdriver to the get the boltholes to line up and the fasteners in. I'm now looking at doing the same thing on a twin-cam and it will definitely be painted in-situ, probably with Hammerite once the rust is abraded off.

On a twin cam the spring retaining / tension bolt (M8) can be backed off until there is no tension on it .

 

[Hexme]

I am just after giving mine its 3rd coat of matt black. Got a few coats of etch primmer yesterday. Easy to take back down to metal with a mouse sander.

Getting the bolts out was easy. 22mm spanner and a 5mm allen key. The spring on the other hand is quite tight. Took a bit or levering to get off. I think the orignal paint was crap. Even bits that are not exposed to chipping were rusty. I think a good home paint job will last longer than the stock paint job. I might give it a clear coat also.

Looks good KP!

 

[Hexme]

More good advice here, think ill remove it and tackle the job.

Cheers all

 

[Bear]

On a twin cam the spring retaining / tension bolt (M8) can be backed off until there is no tension on it .

I'll have a close look at it as my main stand looks scabby, but unless it's blindingly obvious how it's done I'll be painting in situ.

 

[Bendy toy]

On a twin cam the spring retaining / tension bolt (M8) can be backed off until there is no tension on it .

It's the same on my 08 Adv.