Ceramic grease on exhausts

Try and avoid Copper grease expecially where you have interaction of 3 metals !

I made the mistake 15 years ago of putting a free moving engine bolt back in a case with coppaslip

He kept it in a garage did a thousand or so miles and I bought it off him and had an issue with the casing and wanted to take it out of the frame It didn't budge !!! Its still stuck in that block I wish to F**k I had just used ordinary grease Copper alloy and steel with a side order of salt is a great catalyst for Galvanic reaction

Anyway Avoid Copper grease Use Alloy Anti Seize and make sure and Crack the exhaust rings every six months or so

I don't know about the ceramic I will try and get in the garage to get the part number off my tub (Which is due replacing) in a while if I can get the door open It is absolutely Howling out there :thumby:
 
I am not disputing the Doctor but generally the use of coppaslip on the exhaust/head stub threads "plus" regular (6 monthly) release clean and reapply seems to be the general rule of maintenance for these due to the poor quality of the alloy anti-seize grease. Doctor what make anti seize do you use? another thing worth mentioning is the exhaust nut do not need tightening until the veins stick out of your neck. When I have spoken to Richie Moore regarding this subject he basically said hand tight would be enough. Personally I nip them up to seal the joint run the bike let it cool then loosen and gently tighten. Just think in terms of £120 + postage an head to repair.
 
Likewise, I've never had an issue with copperslip - and it's better than nowt (sorry to steal that northern phrase, after all I am a shandy-drinking southerner!)
 
Ive allways used copperslip and never had any problems , but apparently Ceramic Grease has higher temperature resistance and can also be used to stop brake "squeel" , so it probably worth a go .I will try it.
 
Seems Tootstation's stock system was wrong so the Ceramic Grease is on back order, as I wanted to use the bike today I have used some Bostik Never Seez Pure Nickel Special that should do the job, I'll try the ceramic in six months time.
 
I don’t use anything on the threads, just crack them often and don’t over tighten them. The bigger problem is getting the header out of the head - it can be very tight and I think the ceramic grease may help to stop this seizing up.
 
The main thing is to shift them regularly (once or twice a year) and apply the grease. Coppaslip does for me but others are available.
 
I always used OPTIMOL anti seize paste. Back in the BMW journal a fair few years ago it was mentioned that this is the same thing as VW CV joints (I think it was CV joints) - used in the VAG workshops. I got mine from Motobins, still have it and use it. I use it on sparkplugs too, not to tighten them, but to act as a barrier between the alloy and steel. Head studs for the exhaust on my X Country too. Anything that gets hot that I want to be able to get undone again with my basic tools.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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