Changing an engine??

BlueBird

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After breaking my engine (see submarine gs) I have got another to do a straight swap.

As we know everythings bolted to the engine and it looks like a complete breaking in half of the bike, the back end will come off in a unit and the front will come off in big bits.

Im thinking of making a sort of "spine" support above the bike to hold everything and take the engine out from the below and down.

Anyone done anything like this??
 
Much easier just unbolting everything from the engine.

Then re-assembling everything to the stand alone engine.

Having it all hanging and trying to refit will certainly make life much harder.
 
I've just stripped off the back and front subframes for de rusting and refinishing.
I supported the engine on a bike lift jack and with ropes from garage roof timbers. But I wasn't changing the engine.
From bitter experience DONT TAKE ANY SHORTCUTS
The bike seemed to have been designed by teams who hardly talked. So you will put things back in what seems a logical order to find something seemingly trivial won't fit. eg Wiring to starter and gearbox wraps around engine BEFORE back subframe goes on.if you take off some stuff but not all you will have one hell of a fight getting it back on again.

The wiring is very complicated and will not fit where you expect it to.

Many other parts must be connected in correct order. Eg the front subframe cannot be removed with Telelever swing arm in place.

Start at the front and remove everything bit by bit. The engine is the foundation so there is no other way.
Consider replacing suspension and steering bearings. My double row headstock bearing was worn. Odd really as the Telelever arm should take the load.
Also consider stripping , zinc base coat and powder coat or paint on the steel frame parts.
My front end frame had been splashed with pant stripper or brake fluid so had some nasty rust. But after professional stripping there was rust developing all over under the paint.
Take lots of pictures and carefully bag the parts.
 
Another ideal thing is to photo everything in situ & as it comes off,the times Iv not done this & struggled lol
 
Hope this helps

It was my first investigation into the 1200's and I decided to take the motor out and get any possible debris out

But the slideshow may let you see what is involved

Hope it helps

<iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://s663.photobucket.com/user/Jaythro55/embed/slideshow/Petes%20R1200GS"></iframe>
 
An interesting slide show :clap

In the hope of avoiding a dropped valve, at what mileage would you suggest replacing the exhaust valves?

Another one about strange complexities - the air box has to be bolted to the rear subframe BEFORE its fitted to the engine. I replaced many corroded bolts with stainless socket hex heads with a high quality anti seize paste. I used washers with the stamped (rounded) side towards the engine. The sharper cut side is more likely to puncture the paint. I suspect that copper washers with stainless bolts would do a better job. Maybe a metalurgical expert can shed light on that.
 
Being Honest I don;t know

But I do know that The inlet valves on that side were tighter than they should have been

She was in for a service and I took it a run up the road about a mile (to warm the oils to drop them out) with a chatter she stopped and I didn;t get to finish the 5 mile circuit

And After I'd the engine all built up I changed the lamda probe in that side as the fueling seemed all over the place (verified with a GS911)


I think Keep the oils fresh and Keep the End float and tappets adjusted and things will be okay
 
When I had the frame parts off, I left a lot of stuff on the engine, but it's a big job. BB has even more to strip away so could be a little while yet.
 


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