changing throttle cables

[david vaughan-birch]

I think I need to change mine-after 140k the throttle action is getting very stiff-but looking at the thread in the font of all wisdom it looks like I have to balance the throttle bodies as well. Not something I fancy doing, or have the kit for! Is it possible to change the cables without doing this? Advice appreciated!

 

[Paul G (BHT)]

I think I need to change mine-after 140k the throttle action is getting very stiff-but looking at the thread in the font of all wisdom it looks like I have to balance the throttle bodies as well. Not something I fancy doing, or have the kit for! Is it possible to change the cables without doing this? Advice appreciated!

It is something you will need to get done once you have fitted your new cables, your 1150 will run but it will be very vibey and rough if the bodies are out of sync.

 

[Mort]

It may be worth a go at giving them a good lubing (if that's a proper word) first. Metal Man from this site has just done that and it has made a big difference to his throttle.
Having said that his has done less miles

 

[motobiker]

140,000 miles IS quite outragous... particularly when you consider the service schedule says 18,000 (though of course it doesn't say you MUST change at that mileage but only check and change when/if symptoms are noticed)

I'm amazed though. and happily reassured.

 

[Steptoe]

if it's an 1150 you'll also need the new type of throttle cable twist grip mount.

You won't be able to use the older type that's on your bike with a new cable.

 

[FatAl]

What issues

140k miles is some going, I'd be interested to know what reliability issues you've had with the bike over this time. Cheers, fatal.

 

[david vaughan-birch]

If you'd asked me a couple of days ago Fatal, I'd have said not much apart from wear and tear (at that kind of mileage pretty much everything that breaks is wear and tear). I've had a gearbox output spline fail at 45k, a new alternator at 100k, rear shock at 110k and a new wheel at 130k. Mostly the problem's been corrosion (I had to replace the tank because the lower seam was leaking). Last night on the way home though, the gearbox locked up when changing from 5th to E'th and had me off. Whether it was me missing the change or whether something went in the box I dont know! I'll find out when Pidcocks have it apart. Anyone know how much a gearbox costs?

 

[MattW]

Ouch! Glad you survived it - seized gearboxes are no fun at all...

cheers
Matt

 

[david vaughan-birch]

thanks MattW-me too! Does it happen often?

 

[MattW]

thanks MattW-me too! Does it happen often?

I'm not the one to ask regarding GS's (still looking for my first one), but I had it happen years ago on a Yamaha 350LC (full throttle 3rd to 4th change - threw me off properly ). My best guess on stripping the box was that a dog had sheared of 4th gear and locked things up. That said, I've not heard of GS's seizing gearboxes, but I'm sure others will chip in.

best
Matt

 

[Steptoe]

thanks MattW-me too! Does it happen often?

It Can also be the drive shaft that snaps and siezes.

 

[david vaughan-birch]

O dear. Does this help to diagnose the problem? I cant get it out of gear now although there is some drive when I let the clutch out very slowly, and the back wheel rotates a couple of turns or so then locks whether the clutch is out or not?

 

[MattW]

Steptoe's yer man for this, but his broken driveshaft theory gets my vote. Doesn't sound good regardless - sorry. If it were me, I'd try to get hold of a replacement box and then strip the old one at my leisure (I wouldn't personally give it to a dealership to do this as it will invariably cost a fortune, but that's an individual judgement call....).

One bonus is that you survived a high speed gearbox seize (hopefully without serious injury?) - not many can say that (I bust myself up quite well ).

best
Matt

 

[Colban]

O dear. Does this help to diagnose the problem? I cant get it out of gear now although there is some drive when I let the clutch out very slowly, and the back wheel rotates a couple of turns or so then locks whether the clutch is out or not?

If the rear wheel locks in neutral,the problem could be in the bevel drive itself.
Can you feel movement (rocking) in the rear wheel?.
Any nasty noises?.
At 140K i guess it could do with a clutch/gearbox/final drive once over.
Be easy to change the throttle cables with that lot out.