Cheap spotlight mounting brackets

[Rob Farmer]

I thought I'd better run these through the summer before recommending them.

I wanted a cheap way to mount spotlight on my PD without having to drill or weld the roo bar. Spotted a contractor at work hanging water pipes onto other pipes with them so pinched a couple off him.

I haven't blown a bulb or had any vibration issues with the bulbs despite knocking it about off road. They have also withstood a full on road crash - all part of the extensive testing process the brackets will also fit onto crash bars.

I've used an 8mm domed cap headed bolt, pushed through from the lamp side of the U bracket, tightened a nylock nut onto it to secure the U bracket and then threaded the rest of the bolt into the socket on the bracket before clamping it in place.

I haven't tried it but they may also fit oilhead crashbars.

Should be available from plumbers merchants for around 50 - 60p each

Like this

http://www.fwb.co.uk/mall/productpage.cfm/FWBGroup/184TPA/63680

 

[England-Kev]

or £3-50 - £3-60, if you ride an oilhead, as we all know you love paying over the top for stuff





Thanks Rob..

 

[brassmonkey001]

Nice one Rob.

 

[D6]

had the same things for 3 years, no probs,

 

[DevonianScotsman]

Rob, you're a star.
I've been looking for a way to mount my Micro-DEs to my R100 wannabe PD - and this looks like the best way

 

[(RIP) maverick]

Got two of them lying in my garage + spots I wanted to fit on my little gringo - this is going back 6 years now

Might just fit them to the bumble bee as they would look the part

 

[electric_monk]

had the same things for 3 years, no probs,

And why didn't you tell us all before now.....

 

[D6]

And why didn't you tell us all before now.....

because usually nobodys interested as they aint got tourytwot on

 

[bubbles]

Rob, how did you get on running the spots on the standard charging circuit/ alternator or have you made some changes?

 

[Rob Farmer]

Rob, how did you get on running the spots on the standard charging circuit/ alternator or have you made some changes?

They are tied in to the main beam circuit via a relay. The charging circuit is standard and copes without any problems. Obviously any demand not met by the alternator comes from the battery. I'm never on main beam for that long that it causes a problem. I was going to run the headlight main beam bulb from the normally closed contact of the relay so the main beam turned off if the relay was energised but it's never been an issue.

 

[brassmonkey001]

I was going to run the headlight main beam bulb from the normally closed contact of the relay so the main beam turned off if the relay was energised but it's never been an issue.

Rob, can you elaborate on this a little? What would be the purpose of doing that?


Bubbles - if you use a HID set up the draw is much reduced.

 

[Rob Farmer]

With the spots on the main beam is redundant so the idea was to turn it off if the spotlights were on and save 60W (approx 4.5 amps with the engine running)

Just been and took the following readings

Current readings to battery:-

No lights on

Tickover = - 3 Amps
1500 RPM = + 5 Amps
3500 RPM = + 8 Amps

All lights on (inc spots)

Tickover = --17 Amps
1500 RPM = - 8.4 Amps
3500 = - 4.14 Amps


I fitted a police regulator I have laying about with a view to seeing what happens with it fitted but disturbed the heath robinson wiring arrangement knocking the battery lead off while the engine was running. This zapped my ignition module..

Good job I've got a spare

 

[bubbles]

Bubbles - if you use a HID set up the draw is much reduced.

But would an HID set up be much more expensive than a £30 set of spots from the local auto factor.

 

[bubbles]

All lights on (inc spots)
Tickover = --17 Amps

Thanks for the reply Rob, does this mean if I had a fully charged 17 amp hour battery and sat at tickover with spots and lights on for 1 hour the battery would then be flat.

 

[Rob Farmer]

In theory yes. In reality the terminal voltage would drop so low the bike would stop before then. Using those current readings you could ride at 3500rpm for 5-6 hours on main beam before you flattened the battery. I'm seldom on main beam for more than a couple of minutes at a time.

I've just been out to test things again with the £70 police regulator fitted and it's makes no difference at all

I'm not suggesting for a minute that anybody wires their bikes up as I have. The post was originally for the mounting brackets.

 

[brassmonkey001]

But would an HID set up be much more expensive than a £30 set of spots from the local auto factor.

Yes. But it would be so much brighter and use less power as well.

 

[brassmonkey001]

With the spots on the main beam is redundant so the idea was to turn it off if the spotlights were on and save 60W (approx 4.5 amps with the engine running)

Ah! I see.

Just been and took the following readings

Current readings to battery:-

No lights on

Tickover = - 3 Amps
1500 RPM = + 5 Amps
3500 RPM = + 8 Amps

All lights on (inc spots)

Tickover = --17 Amps
1500 RPM = - 8.4 Amps
3500 = - 4.14 Amps

Ta for this info, maybe I will plump for an Enduralast alternator after all.