Check ya BALL joint

[(RIP) Kaister]

don't bother buying a crows foot - i doubt it'll work

from memory, i used a decent six sided impact socket on a breaker bar - with the bent fork leg as an extension - i didn't use a torque wrench though - i just tightened the fck out of it

you're also wasting your money buying a nut - why ? whats that going to do ?

just go and buy a one and fit that - use the old nut if it doesn't come with one and loctite it - however if you tighten it correctly it 'shouldn't' need loctite - the nut is a self locker

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

Yep I do have the wrinkle finish and so does the bike

The ball joint was definately stuffed. When it was out it had about 1/2 inch slop in it. Other interesting point was that one of the main BM shops in London did not have it in stock. But did have the nut?? How many BMs running around all with the same ball joint and not a stocked part.

I've a Merc lower balljoint for a 190( I think) in me toolbox and I was looking awhile back and the boot dimension is VERY similar

Comfyoldboots I have an old lower fork bridge that I took off for the dreaded corrosion and had intended to spray it up and bung on e bay

Ball joint is good you could spray it up and just change the whole bridge They are a VERY tight fit

don't bother buying a crows foot - i doubt it'll work

from memory, i used a decent six sided impact socket on a breaker bar - with the bent fork leg as an extension - i didn't use a torque wrench though - i just tightened the fck out of it

you're also wasting your money buying a nut - why ? whats that going to do ?

just go and buy a one and fit that - use the old nut if it doesn't come with one and loctite it - however if you tighten it correctly it 'shouldn't' need loctite - the nut is a self locker

Is it still a self locker after eight years? (3 years in ireland_no salt to speak of)

I'll sort my tools out and get back. It'll either work or not.

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

got one made earlier

 

[DrFarkoff]

is that thing 6 sided or 12 sided ???

Go easy if it's 12 sided it could slip!


It looks like the BM tool for the inner paralever pivot tightener upper nut thingy but made from a plug socket??

If it is made from a plug socket be EXTRA careful they tend to be light alloy and you could find yerself punching yourself?

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

Ah. It's not working. It's a proper six sided Allen key with the suspension extender and a six sided socket. Might buy a better socket tomorrow. Get it drilled again. It's gotta be very tight. Trying to tighten it but I recon it was tight before I loosened it.

Might be talk of a swap ... Here, Jaythro, You ever heard of Hammerite smooth? In silver?

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

It's beautifully made it isn't it! It's not snug on the nut though.

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

It might be a plug socket from the Suzuki haberna 125cc scooter

 

[DrFarkoff]

Might be talk of a swap ... Here, Jaythro, You ever heard of Hammerite smooth? In silver?

http://www.hammerite.co.uk/products/direct_to_rust_metal_paint_smooth_finish.jsp

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

I've decided I need to get the tool rebored and widened.

Going to try the Six sided ring spanner on a long extension over the weekend. If all that does not work, I'll be replacing it.

 

[Steptoe]

You can lead a horse to water etc etc .............................

 

[Stewart H]

Big bar, impact socket, initial tighten with ringspanner then piece of timber between forklegs, assistant to counterhold, set aforementioned breaker bar to "four white knuckles" setting, its a steel nut on a steel thread, you are not going to hurt it.

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

You can lead a horse to water etc etc .............................

Big bar, impact socket, initial tighten with ringspanner then piece of timber between forklegs, assistant to counterhold, set aforementioned breaker bar to "four white knuckles" setting, its a steel nut on a steel thread, you are not going to hurt it.

Your spot on there Steptoe and it's most frustrating. I was under the impression that tightening it would pull the whole unit together but no matter how tight I get it there is a gap. I don't think the issue is brute force. I broke a top quality allen key trying it last night.

Question: Should the bracket be flush before I start to tighten? It shouldn't make any difference should it? I've tried pushing more weight onto the front wheel to make the joint flush by putting a block of wood under the rear wheel...no joy. Would someone sitting on the bike applying pressure to the front in a rocking motion help to snerk it together? I'm going to bring it to someone to tighten for me over the weekend if my endevours don't work tonight. Most frustrating indeed.

 

[DrFarkoff]

I am beginning to wonder if you have the right nut?

I "think" there is a captive washer on the nut ??? But I may be slipping

Owen pm replied to

Part 13 http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=0441&mospid=51760&btnr=31_0530&hg=31&fg=10

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

Hiya Jay,

No captive washer on it. None that I can see on the r850r either. My socket is being redrilled today and I'm hoping to give it another go tomorrow.

 

[DrFarkoff]

STOP what you are doing because it should NOT be that tight

Brute force and ignorance will not solve it!

I suspect that you are pulling down on the flat of the spigot and not against the telelever and just stretching the threaded part of the spigot????? If you haven;t already done so?

Sorry Owen but the spigot goes thru the hole and you tighten the nut up and there should be zero movement when it's nipped up then you torque it

The Torquing of the nut is the security to keep the parts pressed together and the nut from loosening

if it's loose when it's the nut is nipped up fairly tight then something is wrong perhaps a measurement is not correct??? Hence the nut with the captive washer idea

The photo below is a close up of the one on my 1200 (same as 1150 I checked "31422330996" )you can see the washer sitting below the nut on top of the swingarm

Hiya Jay,

No captive washer on it. None that I can see on the r850r either. My socket is being redrilled today and I'm hoping to give it another go tomorrow.

 

[pikeydave]

Anyone after a balljoint? Buy this off me and unscrew it

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=287214

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

STOP what you are doing because it should NOT be that tight

Brute force and ignorance will not solve it!

I suspect that you are pulling down on the flat of the spigot and not against the telelever and just stretching the threaded part of the spigot????? If you haven;t already done so?

Sorry Owen but the spigot goes thru the hole and you tighten the nut up and there should be zero movement when it's nipped up then you torque it

The Torquing of the nut is the security to keep the parts pressed together and the nut from loosening.

if it's loose when it's the nut is nipped up fairly tight then something is wrong perhaps a measurement is not correct??? Hence the nut with the captive washer idea

The photo below is a close up of the one on my 1200 (same as 1150 I checked "31422330996" )you can see the washer sitting below the nut on top of the swingarm

Begs the question why mines doesn't have a captive washer. I've a washer of the appropriate size at home. I'll take another look at it then. The gap is the size of washer though. Thanks.

Edit, checked the 850r again and there is one. Strange the washer isn't included in the realoem link. Also, just to be clear, this is the first time I've touched this nut, so it's not like I forgot to put it back on...

Anyone else with a 03 r1150gsa that could check if they have a captive washer?

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

..another 24 mins before I can get out of here and see if the washer works...

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

STOP what you are doing because it should NOT be that tight

Brute force and ignorance will not solve it!

I suspect that you are pulling down on the flat of the spigot and not against the telelever and just stretching the threaded part of the spigot????? If you haven;t already done so?
I don't think so. The spigot is as in the pix above. Once tight there is still play_if I have stretched the spigot a little surely the washer would have taken up the difference?
Sorry Owen but the spigot goes thru the hole and you tighten the nut up and there should be zero movement when it's nipped up then you torque it

After it's nipped up, when it's put on the center stand and the front wheel bumped, there is a visible gap when bounced

The Torquing of the nut is the security to keep the parts pressed together and the nut from loosening

if it's loose when it's the nut is nipped up fairly tight then something is wrong perhaps a measurement is not correct??? Hence the nut with the captive washer idea

Well, I rushed home to see if the washer is the issue. I don't think it is> the washer you mention seems to be part of the nut. I even tried a washer but it made no difference. Just made the nuts travel stop sooner. With or without the washer, the movement is under the wishbone, between the bottom of the wishbone and the ball joint

The photo below is a close up of the one on my 1200 (same as 1150 I checked "31422330996" )you can see the washer sitting below the nut on top of the swingarm

I'm going to check that all the washers are in place between the ball joint and the underside of the wishbone in a short while_EDIT_all the bits are there. Time for a walk. Fed up with this now.