Check ya BALL joint

[Comfy Old Boots]

Anyone after a balljoint? Buy this off me and unscrew it

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=287214

Dude, that looks very very very like the lower fork bridge on an 1150. I'm very interested if it is.


Just to put all this in context btw_bike got hit by a car while parked a year ago. Lot of work done since. It's been getting better bit by bit but still feels a little vague. Everything else on the front seems fine.

 

[DrFarkoff]

Dude, that looks very very very like the lower fork bridge on an 1150. I'm very interested if it is.


Just to put all this in context btw_bike got hit by a car while parked a year ago. Lot of work done since. It's been getting better bit by bit but still feels a little vague. Everything else on the front seems fine.

Owen its not it's flat R1150R has a 17 inch front wheel you'd probably drop the height by about 2 inches at the front if you used that

That one in the pic is the right one albeit a lacking in paint

 

[rtoilhead]

Anyone else with a 03 r1150gsa that could check if they have a captive washer?

'03R1150GSA

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

Owen its not it's flat R1150R has a 17 inch front wheel you'd probably drop the height by about 2 inches at the front if you used that

That one in the pic is the right one albeit a lacking in paint

I saw that after I posted. It's flat not curvey. Just trying to get my head round what's not happening. I think it's fairly cool that you can tell me that it would drop it that much. I was wondering about that after I posted earier.

'03R1150GSA

Thanks. It's an expensive nut that one on the positive, It's a self locker and don't need to worry about it too much.

I'm still thinking of old socks as good protectors for when I offer the new bridge to the top of the forks on reassembly. I've got that bit sorted but the bits inbetween are a pain in the preverbials. I'll sort a paypal out to you Jay tomorrow after a chat on the phone. I might paint it black...as we say over here, this is rapidly turning into a 'pain in the hole'

 

[taz]

Anyone after a balljoint? Buy this off me and unscrew it

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=287214

I will have it if its still available as i have the Rockster telelever on the GS.

Regards Dave.

 

[pikeydave]

I will have it if its still available as i have the Rockster telelever on the GS.

Regards Dave.

OK.
He PM'd me.
I PM'd him.
Looking through the posts he was under the impression that it will bolt straight on a GS. (It won't as far as I know) so when the dust clears I'll get my people to talk to your people.

(and you're only round the corner relatively speaking)

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

OK.
He PM'd me.
I PM'd him.
Looking through the posts he was under the impression that it will bolt straight on a GS. (It won't as far as I know) so when the dust clears I'll get my people to talk to your people.

(and you're only round the corner relatively speaking)

ah jazus

i only ever looked at it as a possible replacement for a ball-joint. No more and no less. I was just throwing ideas around. Same as always.

I'm just bewildered that I need a new ball joint / bridge yoke and why I don't have this information in a 'before this' sense of the event. Bit annoyed but going to look at the options seriously. The whishbones connected to the backbone, the ... how is the mudguard connected to the yoke again???

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

I sense a lot of sympathy from members. I might put a set of metzler z8's on her next. I use oil too.

Two bikes on the road is better than one in the shed

 

[pikeydave]

I sense a lot of sympathy from members. I might put a set of metzler z8's on her next. I use oil too.

Two bikes on the road is better than one in the shed

It's still yours if you want it and if you don't, Mr rockster man can have it. (straight fit for him though)

Be proud that you have highlighted the balljoint wear issues. I've replaced 3 120k on me 1100RT and I might do the 1200 soonish as it approaches 80k. Makes a difference to the handling but it seems most ride around in blissful ignorance.

Got yet another balljoint on a brace still knocking around. Can move on the price a fair bit on that one..
http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=274315

 

[DrFarkoff]

Owen I Don't think you will be able to get your front wheel back in if you were to try and use that one unless you have a 17 inch front wheel fitted???

 

[Smug]

Had play in the front wheel carrier of my K1200s and had to replace the top ball joint. Looks like BMW will be selling lots of ball joints in the future. Not cheap at £79.

 

[justabof]

If the ball joint is screwed tightly into the fork yoke, and the nut is tight so that the top portion of the ball joint does not move in the suspension arm, then surely any movement is within the ball joint itself - ie. it is worn.

Seems obvious to me, but I could be missing something........

 

[ChrisH Kerry]

Seems obvious to me, but I could be missing something........

Same here....

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

Same here....

Obvious to me now too. All I've got to do now is decide upon the easiest approach to fixing it. Thanks for the input gang. Appreciated.

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

Jaythro_pm sent

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

. Ready to strip and install.

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

my master plan is to cable tie the front brake and get some one to hold the forks whilst I loosen the front fork brace and let the stancions do the work. Then release the ball joint. Is this the best way of dropping the forks out of the fork bridge? I've thought of ways 3 so far This one sounds like the easiest? Then remove the fork bridge without removing the stancions? Replace the reverse way and fit it back onto the wishbone?

 

[DrFarkoff]

Nope won;t work that way!

You need to drop them DOWN thru

You need the dust seals off to clear the top of the fork leg

It isn;t that hard Honest You just gotta be methodical!

my master plan is to cable tie the front brake and get some one to hold the forks whilst I loosen the front fork brace and let the stancions do the work. Then release the ball joint. Is this the best way of dropping the forks out of the fork bridge? I've thought of ways 3 so far This one sounds like the easiest? Then remove the fork bridge without removing the stancions? Replace the reverse way and fit it back onto the wishbone?

 

[Comfy Old Boots]

Forgot about the dust seals. I would have remembered them in due course...I've a new self locker for the ball joint on route from motorworks and my custom tool has been remachined. Must buy that lad something nice for that. It'll be great to lock that nut off properly. If there's a clunk when I bounce the front wheel afterwards, well, I'll eh,

 

[justabof]

Forgot about the dust seals. I would have remembered them in due course...I've a new self locker for the ball joint on route from motorworks and my custom tool has been remachined. Must buy that lad something nice for that. It'll be great to lock that nut off properly. If there's a clunk when I bounce the front wheel afterwards, well, I'll eh,

I've just caught-up on the story so far, and I can't see where you say you have got a new ball joint, only a nut.

If it was all tightened-up properly and there was play, how will the play be removed just by changing the nut?

Or am I missing something (again?)