Checking the oil - what am I missing???

[Slippy]

Checking the oil on my F800gs as per maintenance book & I’m confused.

The book says to check after a lengthy ride, leaving the bike to idle until the fan comes on, idle for a minute more, then check.

I’ll be the first to admit I’m not technically minded but checking after the above would mean the oil is still displaced around the engine & therefore not the time for getting an accurate reading wouldn’t it???

What am I missing?

Apologies in advance for being thick.

 

[Deano64]

Yes - it seems a bit strange, but there are a lot of strange things with these 'ere BMW's. I follow the instructions and hope they are right

 

[mcbikerider]

I guess it has to do with the temperature of the oil. It expands when warm and therefore it should be at the "max" point when still warm.

But hey, what do I know? I just ride the darn thing.

 

[Blobby]

Not quite sure what is correct but after a good run I switch off, put the bike on the centre, leave if for 2-5 mins then check the oil. Whether that is correct or not I don't know but it's hasn't caused me any problems as yet.

 

[cherokee]

Dry sump

The KTM 990s have the oil checked this way,they have a dry sump system so the oil sits in a tank and you have to warm the engine to 4 bars then check the oil,not sure if the bms have the dry sump sysyem but that may be why you do it this way as opposed to the flat twin with the sight glass.

 

[Greggers]

You're not trying to check it while it's still running .... are you?

It's all to do with the oil level in respect to the pick-up point of the oil pump, and volumes of oil... I can only guess that Rotax have worked out what the average oil level is in a running engine such that the scavenge pipe is always full, then ...let it drain down withing certain known parameters like heat after running, viscocity of oil etc. One that level is known, then as long as it's maintained then their will always be sufficient oil to feed the pump.

Just a guess - probably a load of sweaty old bollocks

Greg

 

[curiousexplorer]

oil level check

easy one, this... when you renew the oil + filter, fill up with 2.9 litre oil, as book says. start engine let run so oil filter is filled up, switch off, then wait 10 min. , then check oil level with dip stick. the level measured is your yardstick to go by in future. mine is 2/3 covered in oil then.

 

[john_aero]

similar witht he single rotax, fill up then check when bike is warm, but i sometimes get level way above max and other days get it not even on the dip stick, what have i done??????? fill 2.3l oil in and leave it, never had any leaks or drips and light stays off so i try not worry about it uless water level goes down or oil leaks onto floor

 

[Slippy]

Cheers for the responses gents.

 

[sijohnston]

i wouldn't worry too much about it. these little engines use next to no oil. i checked regularly for the first 10k miles, and it never budged. now with 25k miles, i never go near the oil, except every 6k miles for servicing. another reason as to why it's better than the 12oo

 

[Greggers]

The use no oil?

Mine used 500ml on an admittedly high speed dash down the Autoroute du Soleil ...

S'ok at more moderate speeds though.

I changed my oil last night - the old stuff was a bit stinky, but had kept its viscocity after 6k pretty hard miles...

Rightly or wrongly, I've used Halfrauds semi-synth to refill, new filter and about 3L of oil... seems ok.

 

[snowlife_9999]

to add, have check my oil on 800gs regularly and it is perfect every time (25,000km). BUT, i understand the previous arguments, re warm oil. I know that 'over' oiling can actually cause problems. It can make the oil foam due to over 'mixing' (splashing), thus the engine can't pick up the oil.
With my little knowledge i assume this is for splash irrigation engines like lawn mowers, not dry sumps/pump irrigation like the KTM & BMW.

But link this back to previous comments, with hot oil you will maintaining the max level of oil in the tank and in the upper engine (not measured by the dip stick alone), thus you achieve the premium result, less engine wear.

Personally I always start my bike then put on my gear before riding, this gives it at least a minute to warm up, and if i get ready quick I will take it easy for the first few km.

Warming any engine helps no matter what.

 

[Blobby]

...Warming any engine helps no matter what.

I thought most car/bike manufacturers say don't let an engine idle to warm up, but drive off straight away using low revs & gentle throttle as this will prolong the life of your engine. Well that's what I have always done and I've had not problems (touch wood).