Emoto
Registered user
You don't use neutral? 
Clacks , Crunches, or cant get Neutral
- Thread starter needlongerlegs
- Start date
You don't use neutral?
That wouldn't indicate clutch drag
GS_or_bust
Registered user
You don't use neutral?
Stop in first, side stand down, get off bike as the engine stopped automatically and is now the parking brake.
Get on, clutch in, start engine, ride off.
If you stop for any length of time then hit the stop button, release the levers and again the engine acts as a parking brake. The starting load on the starter is much reduced with the centrifugal decompressor on the LC.
Off roads skills taught me the no neutral method and it had probably saved me a week of my life so far.
What do you think all those Jap bikes with silky gear changes have been using the last 50+ years. This isn't some brilliant 21st century hi-tech idea from BMW.
Because that RT has a proper dry clutch, unlike the WC GS's wet clutch set up
Beta testers - god love them
JS, It's like Muppet Central! The new breed of GS owners, God help us!
Emoto
Registered user
Fair enough. Thanks for the explanation.
biggeorge
Registered user
gear changing
HI first to reply to RED 1 regard to his reply on my comment that concerns about same oil used for engine and gearbox , I have had over 40 bikes that use the same oil for both,but non of the bikes grate when changing gear like the LC ! that was my concern about the metal bits that could be in the oil .
Also bmw now want me to take the bike back to the dealer to check to see if the master cylinder piston for the clutch is sticking . I think that they do not know what the problem is ,but will have to see . Had a ride over to astles today and quote they have had " not one bike reported back with gear change problems " ?
HI first to reply to RED 1 regard to his reply on my comment that concerns about same oil used for engine and gearbox , I have had over 40 bikes that use the same oil for both,but non of the bikes grate when changing gear like the LC ! that was my concern about the metal bits that could be in the oil .
Also bmw now want me to take the bike back to the dealer to check to see if the master cylinder piston for the clutch is sticking . I think that they do not know what the problem is ,but will have to see . Had a ride over to astles today and quote they have had " not one bike reported back with gear change problems " ?
And we have a breed of no it all fooking igiots that don't even own a wc they should do one back to the pensioners section.
Much much much better and all I did was start to undo the cover screws and the fluid forced its way out as shown in the picture. That suggests to me it was too full and BTW the engine was cold. I did draw out a small amount of fluid once the cover was off then refitted and took it for a ride. It's so much better and there is no need to have the clutch lever travel set to max.
Attachments
You are wrong - the dry plate clutches on boxers have often struggled into first without rotating the gears a little - do a search.
Not true! - the vast majority of complaints have come from the newbies who have limited experience of bikes in general.
shortywilliam
Registered user
I do hope you are not referring to me.
jonnyp
Registered user
Hum.... Interesting.
Guess this has nothing to do with the oil used.
I assume you'll check the level in the morning when cold.
Emoto
Registered user
Wow! This is amazing. Just to be clear, you are saying that now you've adjusted the clutch fluid level down, your shifting is improved? If so, would you say it has improved to the point of being in the range of what we might call normal?
Edited to add:
So, of course, I had to go out to the garage and check mine, especially since I have a bit of intermittent rough shifting. And...
MINE TOO!!!
It is raining fairly hard here (just washed the bike of course) so I have not taken it out to test shifting action yet. I hope this improves things.
Oilhead Russ
Registered user
Check your Front brake master cylinder too. my clutch master cylinder was the same as yours, so I decided to check the front brake master cylinder & found it to be the same.
Just a thought...I wonder is this why the rear pads are wearing out quickly as the fluid warms & expands the pressure cant go anywhere & pushes the brake pistons out slightly?
But at least we have some mechanical knowledge & the ability to get our facts right, without resorting to insults
How's the legal action & law suit going against BMW ?
Wyreflyer
Registered user
That is arrogant beyond belief.I don't hold with angry responses and personal slights, but you have just proved how narrow minded you are.
Emoto
Registered user
Wow! This is amazing. Just to be clear, you are saying that now you've adjusted the clutch fluid level down, your shifting is improved? If so, would you say it has improved to the point of being in the range of what we might call normal?
Edited to add:
So, of course, I had to go out to the garage and check mine, especially since I have a bit of intermittent rough shifting. And...
MINE TOO!!!
It is raining fairly hard here (just washed the bike of course) so I have not taken it out to test shifting action yet. I hope this improves things.
I found that I could not wait for the rain to stop. I had to know, so out I went to try my shifting. I only rode a few miles on small "B" type roads, but there was no traffic, so I was starting and stopping and running up and down through the gears constantly, including after the bike was up to running temp. My opinion is:
SHIFTING PROBLEM SOLVED!
The bike now shifts as I would expect it to.
Many thanks to Magnon for discovering this simple fix for a vexing problem!
sdh2020
Registered user
Sounds like you are lucky enough to live somewhere where there are few traffic lights. Wouldn't work for the rest of us.
